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01 T&C Instrument Cluster Misbehaving After Battery Change Tried Many Solutions ....

So, this is the second time in 4 months that I has to disconnect my battery. The first time was to replace it, the second for some light maintenance. The first time I replaced the battery I freaked out that I bought the wrong one when I saw the instrument cluster go haywire. Thought I fried the electrical system.

Well, with the help of this forum and other websites I was able to figure out the solution: car off, hold in trip odometer reset, turn the key to on and wait for a message to show on the odometer display, let the trip reset out and watch the magic happen. Worked like a champ!

Now, this time around it is not working. I checked all electrical connections, made sure any and all fuses were good, cleaned the connections (and no, it is not the little wire on the positive post), and am out of ideas.

When I do the cluster reset with the trip odometer pin, the cluster reacts like it wants to reset, but it never gets the message that scrolls across. I have held that pin in for 5 minutes and seen and heard the cluster clicking like it wants to reset, but no message.

Any ideas? Do i need to hold it longer? Is there something else that I might have overlooked?
 

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You did double check to see if the battery terminals are tight right? Bad or weak battery? Possible. Get it load tested.
 

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Even new batteries could be bad! You could have a bad cell or something. A few years back,we had a bad battery on the van and would randomly go dead and things like that.
 

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I had a battery that tested "good" but sometimes was not able to start the van. Finally, within a few days it completely died. It gave me some fits during its death...so get the battery tested, and perhaps more than just one load test.
 

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Slightly loosen the batt clamps, move the clamps back and forth a few times to clean the contacts, re-tighten and see if this helps.

If not get a cheap batt load tester from WM and check the batt at least 8 hrs after engine shut down.

This is the only real way to test a batt, voltage means nothing.

Why was the batt the wrong one? Was it not 12v?
 

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In the 3rd gen forum, there is a thread where someone finds broken solder joints in the cluster. The cluster looked similar to my 01GC cluster, but I don't know if the 01 cluster was upreved or what. My problem wasn't the joints (ha-ha), but something else. There is a referenced pdf in the thread that one guy can prob email you too.
 
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