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OK. Doors fixed. Below is my workup for anyone else having the problem. Mine was a wire problem.

First here is a picture of the track...
This is probably a temp fix as I forsee more breakage in the future.

Hope this helps some of you.
Thank you so much!! That's it on my mother-in-law's 2005. I'm on my way to her basement to look for wires to splice in there. I tell you what man, my father-in-law died ten years ago and she really misses him and she needs people around to help with little things here and there but I live out of state. So you've helped out a sweet lady today, God bless you for your effort to document all of this.
 

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New to the forum and having issues with my driver side sliding door on my 2005 T&C Limited. Unlike many here, my door will power open when I press the buttons (roof button and side door button on the pillar) The only way it does not open is via the remote transmitter. My assumption is that there is either a receiver / sensor somewhere that determines which button is pressed and pops the door, or ghosts. I have removed the harness, ohm'd every wire (all good) for good measure I pulled all the wires out and checked them (no breaks). I did see a sensor near the rear of the track on the floor of the track. Not sure what it is but I removed it, compared it to the passenger side (working fine). It had the same P/N so I swapped it to see if there was any change. Passenger side still works, driver side not so much. I am assuming that if you have power doors that both sides are able to be remotely activated, correct? I have dis-assembled my fob and all connections inside there look fine, no broken solder points etc... I will be getting 2 spare keys tomorrow and having them all programmed (only have one right now) I do not expect them to fix the door, but who knows. Anyone else experienced this problem? My assumption is there must be a receiver / sensor in the latch assembly. When I hit the button 2x on the remote I do not here the actuation like I do on the right side.


-Ben
 

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Fobs all talk to the BCM through the RKE antenna. Since the interior buttons work and the problem is limited to one door, I'd guess the problem is in the fob.
 

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That makes a lot of sense. As usual I'm probably over thinking this. Maybe I'll get lucky and the new keys will fix it and I'll just use this "broken" key as the back up.
 

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The fob it was.

Two new keys, all doors work.

Worst part, when I posted previously, I had an RF tester 4 ft away from me. Could have settled this two weeks ago lol
 

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our 04 did the same thing 3 yrs ago. dealer said there was a short in the wiring under drivers side sliding door. the big wiring harness that slides with the door. i didnt believe them and a week later the whole van was dead. towed it to dealer where they said the short in the door wire harness burnt out the main computor and battery so after installing a used computor and disconnecting the drivers sliding door..and $1800 later..we had a van again.i put that supposed burnt out computor in a friends van that was going back to bank and it started fine..the dealer screwed us..will Never go back there.
 

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my 2006 T&C has a different sliding door issue that I cannot find a solution to.
my right side door will slide open and close, BUT--you have to manually "pop" the exterior door handle to get it started. Once you give quickly operate the door handle and release it, the door will slide properly (and the power latch will engage) this is true for both the opening and the closing actions.

any suggestions
 

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Drivin' Maniac
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Your issue sounds to me like sticky grease in the latch mechanism. Have you removed the latch, cleaned any lubrication out with a solvent, and re-lubricated it? This action has helped many owners.
 

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So, I took a quick look at my passenger side slider eventually... I made some progress and some prognosis, but I don't have it licked quite yet.

I visually inspected my wiring in the tank tread track and wanted to pass on how I accomplished this for others to consider:
When I opened the door, I found it difficult to see very well as all I could look between the segments of the black plastic wire flex trac guide.

I removed two phillips head screws at the door side cover over the forward, lower door support. Where the wire flex guide trac attaches, there was a rectangular section near the door support that I was able to move to unlock the flex guide attachment from the silver door attach pin. [this pin is to attach the wire trac to the door support in a flexible pivot manner][the black rectangle had what looked like three ridges for a thumb slide(I forget exactly how to release this, but I think pull it with fingernails?)]

I also was able to free the chassis side of the wiring harness by carefully sliding a flat pry tool under the harness from the front of the lower door track and gently prying the two "press in" attachment lugs upward. This allowed me to have more slack on the chassis wire harness to flex trac transition, so I could see the wiring and trac better.

If I carefully bent the trac ears on one link of the rounded pivot pins off of the next link (both sides), I could separate the track into 5 link segments. That allowed me to slide the segments back and forth so I could see all the wires without hindrance. I also manipulated the flex track over the woven wire protector at the door side after removing the electrical tape. This way I had opened up about 5 inches of space available between the trac link segments I had separated earlier.

I ran out of daylight and time, having not found anything obviously damaged like others have reported, I carefully put it all back together like I had found it. My door worked normal for several tests and I thought I had perhaps fixed a loose and intermittent connection. That was until I had two arms full of groceries and it didn't work when I needed it the most.

I hope this helps you to inspect and repair your wires. When I address this again, I'll post some pictures rather than a thousand words.
 

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It's the sliding door wiring! I had the same problem with my 2002 T&C at about 50K miles. This is very hard to figure out and very intermittent. So many mechanics (even at the Chrysler dealerships) could not find the problem. I wasted a lot of money on this but finally got feed up and decided to fix it myself. I did not replace the harness with the Chrysler part. It’s just the same defective Chrysler stuff. I recommend getting some good wire from the local auto parts store and splicing them in. I also replaced all the wires that move. Cost for the new wires was about $20.00 and about 2 hours time to splice them in and retape the harness. Make the splices some ware where the wires do not move and personally I like to solder the splices wirer to wirer. My van now has about 150K miles on it and it sliding doors and lift gate still work perfectly.
 

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I thought I had made a post, perhaps it was just good intentions...

I found the harness for sale on Amazon for $64 by two companies (I think they may be the same ) CF Advance and Advance Ignition
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NPF368P/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=A2G4WA3R1OGNKP&psc=1

We won't know the condition / quality until someone actually buys one and lets us know.

ABOVE: posted my need for the RH door. Check year, make, model before ordering for your purpose.
Cheers!
 

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I would like the link to the other site. Both power doors on or 2001 T&C Limited have quit working totally. they are very hard to open as well.
I had the same thing happen in my van I just pulled some of the fuses under the hood for the trunk and the two side doors laying the tracks vacuum and spray them with a little WD-40 or silicone and just use as hand doors although they are a little heavy and I have to use a prop sometimes to hold up the rear and use my key to open the trunk
 

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I had the same thing happen in my van I just pulled some of the fuses under the hood for the trunk and the two side doors laying the tracks vacuum and spray them with a little WD-40 or silicone and just use as hand doors although they are a little heavy and I have to use a prop sometimes to hold up the rear and use my key to open the trunk
The wiring harness with the drag link chain is Dorman 747-310 on the driver’s side and 747-311 on the passenger side. I’ve been disappointed by the longevity of so many Dorman parts I’m disenchanted with the brand in general, so i’m more likely to re-wire the thing myself from connector to connector using new contacts or connectors instead of splicing. The right wire to get has many fine strands rather than a few thick ones. The wrong wire is CCA (copper coated aluminum) from China.

Water Dispersant 1940 (WD-40) is not a suitable lubricant for door roller bearings. Neither is any of the low molecular weight siloxane (silicone) oils available in a spray can. Buy a spray can of White Lithium grease. And buy a couple of new gas springs for the liftgate if it won’t stay up, the electric opener has nothing to do with it staying open. They’re not difficult to swap.

WD-40 used to be great when ignition wire insulation lasted about a year and then wet wires would spark everywhere but in the cylinder when it was wet. It’s not the worst as a cutting oil for drilling, and it’s pretty good for cleaning wrenches and so on. It’s not a good lubricant that forms a cohesive film that lets metals slide over each other. If if did it would be a useless cutting oil for drilling,

Siloxane has the virtue of extremely low solubility and low wash-out when wetted, but none of the oils offered in spray cans is long enough chains to be a good lubricant for door bearings,

If you want to know what would be the be-all and end-all lubricant for the ball bearing door rollers I’d say Mobil Polyrex EM grease would be way better than anything you can get at an auto parts store, Grease is an oil and something to make the oil stay put that get called the soap, the soap holds the oil is suspension but it’s not a soap in the usual sense for washing soap. Polyrex EM uses a polyurea soap and a synthetic oil. It’s a high quality lubricant made for ball bearing electric motors. It has a very little temperature effect it lasts a very very very long time in ball bearings compared to lithium or molybdenum sulfide grease, and it’s extremely resistant to water and wash-out. It does cost more than any grease at an auto parts store but its worth it. You can tell by the minimal odor and the pretty royal blue color ;-)
 

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Thanks for the detailed explanation of lubricant properties. That blue color Polyrex would complement our van's paint. 😎

I use a yearly drop (just a drop or two) of engine oil on our slider's rollers. If I see dirt buildup, I spray them with brake cleaner before lubricating.

So far, so good.
 
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