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Had an '04 T&C Limited with a completely dead left door (no motor, no latch, no lock/unlock). I had a few minutes so I opened up the dozer track and found that the big fat black wire was INTERNALLY broken in three places. The plastic insulation was still intact (but weakened) but the wire inside was obviously broken. I ended up replacing about 6" of wire (I used wire out of the cord of an old dead Dremel tool, which is highly flexible). I used western union splices (no solder) and covered with heat shrink tube; didn't want to solder so as to avoid stiff spots in the repaired wire. Now the motor and the latch work, but the lock/unlock is still dead. That circuit is driven by the Body Control Module (BCM) on two wires so I will be going back in later to troubleshoot further.
 

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I've had to repair my harness twice now. The same wire broke just a few inches down from the first break. Piece of crap design.

My T&C has side air bags. Does the harness for this the same as the Dorman harnesses I find at Auto Zone (pn 747-311). I'm looking for the passenger side harness.

I've been through every post in this thread. I haven't found anyone who has posted instructions on how to replace the harness. How do I get the middle beam moulding off to get to the connector in there? And I can't seem to figure out how to disconnect what seems to be the air bag connector on the floor of the track. Any hints please?
 

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Does anyone know a fix for when the van is off doors are closed and the power door motor (pass) tries to close but the door is closed and nothing was pushed for it to open or close. Its a 03 T&C Limited if that matters at all
 

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You could try and disable the power door feature by either (I dont know if these vans have it) pressing the switch to turn the doors off (mine are manual, so as I stated, I don't know if these vans have that switch - but I have seen them on other makes), or pull the fuse to the door. You will lose the power door feature, but the doors should still function manually. I know it's not rally a "fix", but it should keep the motor from wearing itself out until the problem is fixed correctly.

Question, is it only one door that is doing this, or both, or do you not know.


My vehicle: 2002 Chrysler Voyager eC, 2.4L, 4spd Auto, 183k miles and counting
 

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You have to check the whole set of wires because probably you have not only the black one busted but maybe other ones too. My 2006 had the black one busted in 3 places, the red one cut in 2 different places and I believe the green busted too. What I ended up doing was using speakers cable and jumping from side to side to avoid the bad sections and use electrical tape, I did not solder anything just in case, just cheap ass repair, close the rails and done.

I was going to get a new harness but couldnt figure it out how to take the thing off, did not want to damage anything so went with the neanderthal solution :)

By the day there are videos of how to fix these doors all over the place too.


Had an '04 T&C Limited with a completely dead left door (no motor, no latch, no lock/unlock). I had a few minutes so I opened up the dozer track and found that the big fat black wire was INTERNALLY broken in three places. The plastic insulation was still intact (but weakened) but the wire inside was obviously broken. I ended up replacing about 6" of wire (I used wire out of the cord of an old dead Dremel tool, which is highly flexible). I used western union splices (no solder) and covered with heat shrink tube; didn't want to solder so as to avoid stiff spots in the repaired wire. Now the motor and the latch work, but the lock/unlock is still dead. That circuit is driven by the Body Control Module (BCM) on two wires so I will be going back in later to troubleshoot further.
 

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I have ordered the control harness but I also need the right side lower door hinge for the slider. Any info of where to find a cheap one would be great. The dealer wants right at $300 for it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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For the sliding door, Dorman offers these:

Dorman 924-910
Sliding Door Roller - Upper Left & Right
Application Summary: Chrysler 2008-01, Dodge 2008-01

Application Notes:
Right; Sliding Door Hinge
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Dorman 924-911
Sliding Door Roller - Center
Application Summary: Chrysler 2007-01, Dodge 2007-01

Application Notes:
Right; Center Roller
------------------
Dorman 924-913
Sliding Door Roller -Bottom Without Power
Application Summary: Chrysler 2007-01, Dodge 2007-01

Application Notes:
Right; Lower; wo/Power Sliding Door
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Dorman has an online catalog:
http://www.dormanproducts.com/
 

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This past winter was the second since I did the repair and cleaned the thick lard out of the latch and it has never failed once. This winter was very cold for NJ.
 

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If it works fine after the car has been running, look at the battery and charging system. The battery may not have enough "umph" to perform the task until it has been charging for a few minutes.

Ben
 

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Our 05 Grand SXT is on it's 4th passenger side slider harness. The first three were under warranty thankfully. The most recent one I installed was the Dorman unit for $60 which is a far cry from oem prices.
I found it easy to install once I traced the front connector to the trim on the B pillar. Simply popping it forward towards the seat with the seat moved almost to the dash worked well enough to access it.

In most cases, the curb side door will get the most use which is why that door has had 4 harnesses. The drivers side is oem as far as I know.

Don
 

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Had an '04 T&C Limited .... Now the motor and the latch work, but the lock/unlock is still dead. That circuit is driven by the Body Control Module (BCM) on two wires so I will be going back in later to troubleshoot further.
Update - I backprobed the harness at the B-pillar and the lock/unlock module was getting power as it should. I then disconnected the lock/unlock module and it was getting power. I ended up replacing the little Mabuchi motor inside the actuator and everything works fine now.

One other update - I had to take apart the slider motors because grease had wicked its way into the clutches and locked the clutches so the doors were very hard to open/close manually. Everything outside of the gearbox comes off easily to degrease, and if you're adventurous, you can use a pair of small snapring pliers to remove the snapring and thus pull the end shaft out and degrease that as well. Hopefully these motors will go another 8-10 years before the grease gets into the clutches again.
 

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Intermittent B-pillar Switch Function

FWIW, we had been experiencing intermittent function of the B-pillar switches since we purchased our (used) '01 T&C. The overhead switches in the EVIC module would always work when the B-pillar switches wouldn't. After much unsuccessful troubleshooting, I stumbled on the cause of the problem - for my case, at least. There was a bad contact somewhere in the wiring to the EVIC switch module.

Someone prior to us owning the van had disassembled the overhead cluster, as two screws that hold the EVIC module tray to the console were missing when I disassembled it. This allowed the EVIC bezel and switch module to rock side-to-side in the console. I'm not 100% certain, but I also believe that the main wire harness was not positioned in its guide clip in the roof mount. I did disconnect the wire lead from the door switch module to the EVIC and disassembled the switch. The switch itself is pretty simple, though there is a spring-loaded pin for the swtich lockout selector that you need to be mindful of if you tear apart the switch module. I put everything back together using a couple of spare screws to make up for the missing ones and re-installed the cluster.

The B-pillar switches have functioned perfectly since. :thumb:
 

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Good job on finding the problem to your van and sharing with those of us who might have power doors. I'm sure this might help someone out.


My vehicle: 2002 Chrysler Voyager eC, EDZ, 41TE, 208k miles and still running strong.
 

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It's pretty late in the game but I had problems with both sliding doors and rear lift gate where it would just pop open and not power open after that. No problems with power closing of the doors or lift gate. It would happen when it was a little cooler in the day, usually mornings. The problem would go away when the outside temperature warmed up. I had all the latches replaced about 10 years ago and haven't had a problem with the power doors or lift gate ever since. I probed the latch switches for continuity and operation but could never figure out what the problem was in the latches.
 

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BTW, on the 2001-2002 motor assemblies, you MUST remove the snapring inside the gearcase to fully disassemble and clean out the clutch area. On the 2003-up motors, you don't have to remove that snapring, though if you pull hard enough that everything comes out of the gearcase, the snapring will need to be reinstalled. This can be done easily by hand or with the help of a flat-head screwdriver to push it back into place.
 
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