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Tried the TSB with our 01 GC ES passenger door and it didn't do a thing. The liftgate and driver's sliding door work fine regardless of the weather. Dealer recommended changing latch and motor, said no thanks for the money they were asking. I think its a different issue because once the vehicle is warm the problem disappears. Hopefully they find a real fix for this issue that doesn't require the replacement of working parts such as latch and motor. Has anyone in a cold area ever had this issue resolved to where the door works 100% of the time?
Hi. i had this problem on all 5 of my T&C/GC´s through the years. Always in cold weather. I fixed it by really cleaning well and oil well with Fluid Film lubricant on the latch and the spring and latch mech that pushes out the door when the lock releashes. Dirt gets in there because it is not well protected from the elements. Use Fluid Film and lot of it. :)
 

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I told my landlord about this issue, especially the reflash issue: her sister owns a Gen4 Caravan that had one slider that popped open but not slide; now, the other door started doing it, too. See what happens, thanks!
 

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I wonder if anyone can help me. The switches for the sliding doors on the b pillars dont work at all since I bought the van second hand. The switches on the overhead console if thats any help
 

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It never hurts to check the grounds at the B-pillars. There's one on each side, just forward of the B-pillar on the floor. You have to pull the door scuff plates on the front and slider doors and pull the lower B-pillar trim to get at them.
 

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I wonder if anyone can help me. The switches for the sliding doors on the b pillars dont work at all since I bought the van second hand. The switches on the overhead console if thats any help
I wonder if this could be a choice in the user settings, a sort of child lock. I haven't looked in the manual, but I suggest you rule that out.
 

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I wonder if this could be a choice in the user settings, a sort of child lock. I haven't looked in the manual, but I suggest you rule that out.
On 5 Gen. you have a master switch. Turning this switch off will not allow you to open those doors from the b-pillar switches.

Activating the child protection lock will not allow the sliding doors to be opened from inside.
 

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I inspected the wires/chain thing and i couldnt see any breaks on any of the wires after prising the black chain like thing apart. Passenger sliding door clicks open then stops and after manually pushing right to the back it starts working from the button swtch. Drivers side sliding door never works at all. All youtube videos i have watched these guys always find where the wire is broken i cant. I couldnt get to the connection of wire onto door plate or into door itself and am wondering if thats where problem is. Is it easy to remove/get to those connections?
 

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I'm sure there are tons of videos on YouTube that show replacing the harness and chain that include removing the harness connections. The one on the door was tougher as I recall, in that you have to lie on your back and work at an odd angle to get at the connector. The one near the B-pillar is not as bad.
 

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I'm having a similar problem with the passenger sliding door. I press the button, all the motors and actuators seem to be making the right sounds but it doesn't open. If I pull on the handle while it's trying, it will open normally. It does the same thing when it tries to close. If I pull the handle, it will close. And it does it intermittently. I'm assuming its the latch, but I wanted to make sure before I did it. I thought at first possibly the wiring harness, but it does not start to open then stop. I also have the heavy pull problem when manually opening.
 

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I'm having a similar problem with the passenger sliding door. I press the button, all the motors and actuators seem to be making the right sounds but it doesn't open. If I pull on the handle while it's trying, it will open normally. It does the same thing when it tries to close. If I pull the handle, it will close. And it does it intermittently. I'm assuming its the latch, but I wanted to make sure before I did it. I thought at first possibly the wiring harness, but it does not start to open then stop. I also have the heavy pull problem when manually opening.
Your symptoms sounds like ours. I believe its the latch and not the lock actuator. Our's only has this problem when its below 45 degrees. I'm thinking about changing out the latch and motor.
 

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Not sure if this was mentioned anywhere, but I was having trouble with my sliding door sticking - I would press the open button, it would open slightly and then reshut. If I tried it again it would open all the way... When I looked closely I could see where soda had spilled and dripped down into where the door closes and the sticky soda was sealing the door shut as it sat for long periods. Cleaned the soda off and it hasn't happened again. Just a suggestion for anyone having a similar issue before checking electrical components.
 

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Just did the wiring fix, We are selling the van and I thought I would give it a shot. Found the broken wire and was back up and running in less than 1/2 hour, Now I am kicking myself since, should have done this two years ago instead of just living with it. This website is invaluable and full of great information
 

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Has anyone ever experienced or know of my situation which is both side sliding doors work automatically using the key fob, over head console switches and pillar switches, However, when I pull on the door handle to either open or close it does not work automatically, only manually. This is on a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT.
Thank you,
 

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If our 2002's sliders are not fully closed or not fully open, they will not work on power. That is the way they are designed.

So if, by pulling the handle, the doors move a little, you are disabling the power operation.


Is that what is happening to you?
 

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No, when the doors are fully open or fully closed then you grab the door handle they should activate automatically but doesn't, you have to drag them manually. Everything else is fine, all interior door switches and key fob operate the doors normally.

Thanks for the reply,
 

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No, when the doors are fully open or fully closed then you grab the door handle they should activate automatically but doesn't, you have to drag them manually. Everything else is fine, all interior door switches and key fob operate the doors normally...
Chrysler vans didn't have that feature until the 2009 model year.
 

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We fixed our power doors (ALL THREE) on our 2003 GC!!

We fixed our power doors (ALL THREE) on our 2003 GC!! Both sliding doors had different symptoms. The first one would close great, but when it tried to open it just would not pop out. First we tested all the wires in the harness, they all had great continuity. Then we took the door panel off and inspected all the moving parts and cables to see exactly how the door works using all the different opening methods. We saw that the wire cable (like how brakes work on a bicycle) coming from the latch (at the middle rear of the sliding door) and attaching to the motor (at the bottom front of the sliding door) was not activating to unlatch the door (at the bottom front location) so that it would not pop open. We figured the latch (at the rear) was broken and took it out of the door. Upon inspection, it was beyond filthy. All we did was spray it out really well with WD-40 and cycled it with the key fob several times. After a few cycles, the wire cable activated and started working!! We cycled a bunch more times and sprayed all the dirt out more and put it back together and it works perfect now! Gotta love free. The second sliding door had a different problem. It would open fine but when it tried to close, it would get almost all the way shut and then reopen as if it had hit an obstruction. The wire harness, again, had great continuity. We thought maybe we had to get the obstruction detection settings reprogrammed at the dealer. But upon a whim, we just sprayed a ton of WD-40 in the latching mechanism from the outside (without taking the door all apart), and IT WORKED! So, the latching mechanisms are on the exterior of the weather stripping and are exposed to all the dust and dirt from the outside air (bad design in my opinion). I wish I would have tried this years ago! On to the liftgate. I would close great. When trying to open, it would beep and the latch tried to work but then it would just sit there. After reading the thread on the liftgate, we tried the solution that seemed to work for others. It WORKED!!! Here is what happens. The rubber bumpers that are located on each side of the door opening, on the vehicle, and on each side of the door, on the door, supply the necessary spring to push open the door. (On the sliding doors, there is a coiled spring on the middle back of the door and the door cinches it closed, tightening the coil.) When the liftgate latching mechanism unlatches, the rubber bumpers are supposed to spring open the door far enough for the motor to take over. It appears that cold weather, as well as age, effects the bounce of the rubber, giving the intermittent successful openings. All you have to do is remove the bumpers on the vehicle, slide a couple washers on the bolts and put the bumpers back on. You'll have to experiment with how far you need to move the bumpers out. Too far and the latch will not catch and the liftgate will reopen when trying to close. Too little and you'll have the same non-opening symptoms. These problems can be really frustrating and expensive. I hope this helps someone out there!
 
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