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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi first time poster here. Hopefully someone can help. And sorry for the long post... just want to lay out the whole issue.
I have a 2007 Town & Country Touring with 3.8L. The issue started over the holidays where we went to Big Bear Mountain which they forced us to use chains. It rattled the heck out of old faithful here. All of the sudden the headlights started blinking on its own. Then it stopped after turning light switch on/ off few times.
Fast forward to 2 weekends ago, the lights started doing it again. And this time I was checking the wipers at the same time since it started to rain. The wipers won't work when the lights are on & flashing. It won't even work once the lights are turned off. Only when the keys are turned off & back on again that the wipers will work again. From internet searches, I thought it could be 3 culprits: light switch, front control module or integrate power module.
I went to the junk yard & pulled all 3 items from a couple of vehicles. I tried the light switch first & issue was still there. Next I swapped the FCM. The light flashing got slightly better but still there. So now I'm thinking it's gotta be the IPM. I drove the car home from the junkyard & started working on it. Took the battery out & swapped the IPM. Still the same problem. I thought maybe I need to cycle the system by turning the engine over to drive it around for bit. Turn key & nothing. Starter didn't kick in to turn engine over (checked all the fuses & relays & they're ok). Started freaking out so I tried another FCM (actually got 2 FCM since I took the FCM also when I bought the IPM) and even put back the original FCM. Nothing!!! So I pulled the IPM & put the original IPM back into the car hoping it'll solve the issue....nothing again!! I jumped the starter relay & starter engages so I know the relay is not getting the signal to start the vehicle. The vehicle is acting like the ignition kill relay on car alarms I installed on vehicles back in the day. The security red dot on the dash is staying solid (never goes out like normal). And the weird thing is the gear select indicator is not even on. The PRND2 is displayed but the squircle that goes around the P is not there at all. And it doesn't show up on anything when I shift to the different gears. I even tried starting in neutral but that didn't work either. I did try using 2 different keys also. And the remote on the key still locks & unlocks the vehicle.
A friend suggested putting a code reader to see if there are any codes. Put 3 different code readers (2 bluetooth ones & 1 Autel) and no dice. It won't communicate at all to the vehicle.
This weekend I even tried swapping a donor PCM to see if it'll solve the issue & no dice.
I feel it's has to the be the security system or something like that (my . I don't want to tow the vehicle to the dealership to get it resolved. I feel like it's something very stupid.
Thanks for reading my novel here.
Anyone has any inputs for me??? Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ok i finally got the vehicle fixed so i wanted to share some info. The fuel pump fuse was bad which prevented the car from starting along obd2 reader not connecting with ECU.
Two other things i learned:
1- the IPM (integrated power module) is just a printed circuit with electrical connectors coming off of it. It's kinda like a glorified jumper bread board. The only failure points i can only see is if the solder breaks or water got in shorted the connectors & burnt the board.
2. The FCM (front control module) is interchangeable between vehicles (not programmed for specific vehicle). The 2 modules i bought has the same part numbers as the original one, just different manufacturing dates.
57258


I also bought a used PCM (from 05 3.3L since i couldn't find a 3.8L) but haven't tried to put it on to see if it'll start or not. Maybe I'll try it this weekend & report back. If it starts the car (prob won't run well), then it's a cheap quick diagnostic tool to see if the original PCM took a dump & needs to be reprogrammed. A used one is just $25 at pick-n- pull so it's a cheap diagnostic tool if it works.
 
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