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As annoying as it is to keep pulling it out, you have to check between each change. Every time you go to plug in or unplug something.

Swapping the PCMs and getting it to run isn't going to happen, even if that is the issue. The security will have to be programmed by a locksmith. But when you had it able to shift when off, that was a step in the right direction. That's with the new PCM? Is the new WIN from the same van?

Try following the wire loom between those two connectors and look for damage, kinks, newer tape indicating a previous repair, and anything that doesn't look factory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
It was from new pcm and old ignition. That's when I could shift. But it seems as if nothing repeats itself totally. I seen one of the connections I made on the new plug has come out. I let my buddy talk me into butt connectors but I wanted to solder them. Well one popped out and I went and got some butane for my soldering iron. I'm gonna redo them all. Solder and heat shrink. So I don't have to worry about them again.
And no win and computer not from same van. What are you saying I'm gonna have to hav programmed by a locksmith?
 

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Solder is always best for any computer connections and any exterior connections.

The PCM and WIN share the security code. If you swap one, the code between them is likely going to be different (possible you get lucky and get a match, but not likely).
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
What's odd is that last thing I did today was press the brake and run thru the gears. That's old ignition, new computer. Thinking about what you said, not wanting to pay a locksmith, i put the old pcm in and can't run thru the gears. Crappy part is I have done so much swapping of parts that Im not sure what pcm whas in when it was running. Tho I'm pretty sure it was the junkyard ecu that was in when we got it to start and run and die a couple seconds later.
 

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Does the keyfob have a proximity chip in it? If so, are you using the original keys with original ignition + previous PCM?

What's a "WIN" I keep seeing mentioned?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Win is a wireless control module. Basically a wireless ignition. Promixity chip I don't think so. And I have tried every combination of old computer, old ignition, new computer, new ignition possible. With the old computer and old ignition with the key in the room position I cannot shift out of gear I noticed. With the old computer and new ignition I noticed I also cannot shift out of park. Takes the combo of new computer and old ignition to be able to shift out of park
 

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So new PCM and new WIN is also not working? Could be that the old WIN has the key programmed to it, and somehow synced to the new PCM. You'd have to look at the security PIDs (Parameter IDs, live data values) to see if it's not allowing fuel pulse.

Keep it with the new PCM and old WIN since that allows you to shift out of gears. Try several start attempts then check your fuse and see if any codes set in the PCM, BCM/TIPM, or WIN. If there are any, they may point us at something specific.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Ok tomorrow I will try linking my scanner to it and look at live data and see if it says what's killing the starter. I hear the fuel pump. It's the starter that won't turn on the key. But if I jump the relay it will crank over all day. It's just getting everything to work at the same time is the issue. And when we did it just ran 2 seconds. But it would restart easy every time just wouldn't stay running. Communicate with the scanner, no CEL tho, scanner says EGR circuit hi. Hoping that's what is keeping it from staying running I clean it out and reinstalled and haven't got it to turn over once since then. Touched nothing but the EGR, and it won't crank up anymore. Still have some grounds to clean. Could a ground be causing all this. Gauges act funny to when I first hit the key, they all roll all the way around and come back to 0 like 30% at a time. Starting to wonder if I have a short in the cluster or something. Im so over this van.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Maybe like my dodge guru was maybe hinting at, I maybe having to put a wiring harness in it. No telling how involved that will be. Lucky me I will get to do it at least twice, if everything goes good. And the first one I pull at the junkyard is a good un'. Lol
 

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You can get a good Bluetooth OBD reader and AlfaOBD (some OBD adapters may include an app that works, so this might not be required) to look at live data on all modules.

Didn't you say the EGR was deleted on this one? That would explain the EGR circuit high code. As long as the wires meant to go to the EGR aren't damaged, that shouldn't be a concern.

The security on these will allow the starter to turn but not pulse the injectors. Your symptom of the starter cutting out is unusual. Does the fuse blow when that happens?
 
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