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1991 3.3 Rebuild

4696 Views 127 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  donchicago48
My 91 Grand Caravan spun a rod bearing at 235,000 miles and 31 years. As luck would have it, I was 200 miles from home. I rented a UHaul Truck and Tow Dolley and towed the wounded vehicle home.
I began disassembling the engine in preparation for removal immediately. I found that the #4 rod bearing had spun and the#4 piston was hitting the cylinder head. All the other main and rod bearings looked fine.
The engine block had very little cylinder wall wear, about .003" - .004". There were no perceptible ridges at the tops of the cylinder walls. I decided to rebuild the engine myself except for machine shop operations.
Once the engine was out of the vehicle, I finished stripping the block of all parts and removed all the freeze and oil plugs. The camshaft and roller lifters were visibly worn. The pistons showed some skirt wear and the oil rings were fairly caked with oil deposits.
I pressure-washed the block and once all the oily grime was gone, I prepared it for an Electrolysis bath (see youtube) to clean the water passages. It did a great job of cleaning up all the invisible parts of the block. After about 48 hours of Electrolysis, I pulled the block out of the bath, pressure washed it again and treated it with WD40 Blast. I cleaned all the block threads with Taps and prepared to send it to a machine shop for cylinder boring and main bearing line boring (if needed).
Since there was only one 1991 block used for both 3.3 L and 3.8 L engines in 1991, I decided to have the block bored to 96 mm (3.780"). I found a set of 2007 3.8 L 96 mm bore flat top EUM Silvalite pistons that would work with my 3.3 L crankshaft and stock 6.18" rods. These pistons have 1.261" compression distance, the same as stock 3.3 L dished pistons. This engine will now be a 3.5 Liter engine with 9.7:1 compression.
I purchased a reground 3.3 crankshaft and matching main/rod bearings from Crankshaft Supply in Minneapolis, MN for $175. They provided fast shipping and excellent customer support. I recommend them highly. They provided a return shipping tag and refunded the $75 core charge quickly.
I found a reconditioned rod on ebay that was an exact replacement for my #4 Rod. It weighs almost exactly the same as the rest of the rods and has same forging number. I will weigh both ends of the rods and adjust weights as needed after the rods are reconditioned and fitted with new rod bolts. The new pistons will weigh more than the original ones, so the crank will need balancing.
I originally planned to use Hastings Moly Rings, but they could not ship before Christmas. Summit Racing customer support was excellent and arranged to cancel order from Hastinngs and refund my purchase price quickly. I found similar 1.2mm/1.5mm/3.0mm Moly Rings from Mahle on Amazon.
I ordered a new 3.8 L 4th Gen Cam, new lifters, valves, valve guides, valve seals, push rods, and rocker arms. I have not found new valve springs and will continue looking for a suitable replacement.
I will recondition the cylinder heads myself after the machine shop cleans and surfaces them. I also drilled and retapped the rocker shaft bosses for larger, longer bolts in order to help prevent rocker shat boss breakage. In the future, I may get later model cylinder heads, Intake and exhaust manifolds, and larger throttle body and air filter box.
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Back end of 6 mm Water Pump Bolt on engine side of Front Cover. I filled the depression surrounding the bolt above with PB Blaster about two weeks ago.

While we are on the Front Cover topic I will mention my struggle with a lowly 6 mm Water Pump Bolt. About 15 years ago I replaced the Water Pump. One of the 6 mm bolts broke off during removal. I did not attempt to remove it and found that the Water Pump did not leak despite the missing bolt.
Today I drilled the 6mm Bolt with an 1/8" Left Hand Cobalt Bit. Then I carefully inserted an 1/8" Bolt Extractor into the Water Pump end of the bolt and gingerly applied torque to the Extractor. I applied more force and the Extractor broke. It left a small Tool Steel plug embedded in the Bolt. I thought I heard the Bolt laughing at me.
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I WILL have the last laugh! Next I will place a 6mm nut over the stub above and weld it to the stub with a wire welder. Stay tuned for the outcome.
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I have a 3.3L sitting that I pulled out of my van, at some point I'll grab a second 3.5L/4.0 block, the real comparison will need to be made then.

The front and rear crankshaft seals are actually the same part numbers between the 3.5L and 3.3L. It appears that the 3.3/3.8 has the front tip of the crank turned down to a smaller diameter only where the harmonic balancer is. The big difference is the timing sprocket and oil pump.
  • The oil pump sits behind the timing sprocket on the 3.5L
  • The oil pump sits ahead of the timing sprocket on the 3.3/3.8L
The 3.5L has the area where the timing sprocket sits turned down to the same diameter as the front main seal area, while the 3.3L does not.

3.5L
View attachment 71819
View attachment 71820

And the 3.3L/3.8L
View attachment 71827
View attachment 71826

In order to run a 3.5L crank in the 3.3L, you'd need a sleeve made to fit over the crank for the 3.3L oil pump. Wouldn't be hard to make.
Alternatively, the 3.3L and 3.5L oil pump rotors are interchangeable, except that the rotors are 7.64mm thick on the 3.3L and 9.4mm thick on the 3.5L. If you were to machine the 3.5L oil pump rotors down thinner, they'd work, because they have the same outer diameter already. In that situation, you only need to key the pump rotors to crankshaft, instead of needing a sleeve.

Then you just need a key way drilled or milled into the crankshaft for the 3.3L sprocket to index into the location that was previously the oil pump drive. Easy to do yourself, I had to do this on my 4.0L.



The rods are extremely similar, but I think it's to the 3.8L.
3.3L3.8L3.5L4.0L
Bore93 mm96 mm96 mm96 mm
Stroke81 mm87 mm81 mm91 mm
Rod Length157 mm150.98 mm150.77 mm150.77 mm
Piston Comp Height29.7 mm33 mm38 mm33 mm
Piston Pin Diameter22.89 mm22.89 mm24 mm24 mm
Rod Journal Diameter61 mm61 mm61 mm61 mm
Big End Thickness21.69 mm21.69 mm


There's some slight variety in this list with the compression height. The combustion chamber volume is slightly bigger on the SOHC than the OHV, being roughly equal to a 1mm drop in Rod Length or Piston compression height. Also, in the sizes of these 4 engines, a 1mm change in the height of the piston at TDC is roughly equivalent to a 1.0 change in compression ratio.
I ordered the late model 3.5 L Oil pump. It has a rotor that is about 13 mm thick, not 9.4 mm. Perhaps the earlier 3.5 L engine has a thinner oil pump rotor. I will research this further.
View attachment 71953
Dorman 2008-2010 Chrysler 3.8 L Oil Pan

I ordered this Dorman 2008-2010 3.8 L Oil Pan. It appears to use the same Oil Pickup as 1990-2007 Chrysler 3.3/3.8 L V6 engines. I also ordered a Stainless Magnetic Drain Plug.
It turns out that this is only the lower oil pan that attaches to an aluminum upper pan. According to Fel-Pro all 1990-2010 3.3/3.8 engines use the same Oil Pan gasket. They also use the same oil pickup. So it would appear that the two piece oil pan would fit on a 1991 3.3 L block. It holds about 1 quart more oil.
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Chrysler 2008-2010 3.8 L Upper Oil Pan Part Number 4892386AA
I found this Upper Oil Pan on a Mopar ⁹parts site. It reduces windage by providing separation of Oil Sump from Rotating Crankshaft Assembly.
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New 1993-1995 Radiator and A/C Condensor will fit '91 Grand Caravan with a few modifications and different Coolant Hoses.
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'99 3.8 L Lower Intake w/ '91 Fuel Rails
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'99 3.8 L Lower Intake w/ '91 Fuel Rails

I'm getting ready to send this Lower Manifold & Fuel Rails to a Machinist along with a pair of generic 14" Billet Fuel Rails and a set of dummy injectors. He will drill and tap the new rail ends for AN-6 Flare/#6 AN Hose fittings. He will machine the Fuel Rails to accept the new Fuel Injectors. He will fabricate Fuel Rail Mounting Brackets.
Fuel Rail Update:
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New Fuel Rails (top), 6AN X 1/2" MPT Fittings (middle), 14mm Fuel Injector Drill (bottom)

I will fabricate Injector Fuel Rails myself using Universal Fuel Rail and 6AN Fittings. I will cut the Fuel Rails to length with a carbide blade chop saw. I will drill the rail ends with a 23/32" tap drill and tap the Rails to 1/2" FPT. I will drill the Injector Feed Holes with the special 14mm Injector Drill Tool. I will fabricate custom 6AN Fuel Hoses. I will fabricate brackets to mount the Rails to the Lower Intake Manifold.
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1992 Chrysler SBEC II ECM

I bought this '92 ECM on ebay in hopes of running Individual Port Fuel Injection instead of 2-Port Batch Fuel Injection. Each Fuel Injector will now be energized one at a time. This ECM will necessitate changing to a different 1992-1993 Chrysler Minivan Fuel Injection Wiring Harness and a few other wiring changes.
I do not intend to run this ECM for very long. I am planning to rewire my van with a later model wiring harness that supports OBD2 and an aftermarket ECM Tuner.

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ACCEL SuperCoil GM 2005-2011 4.8L-7.0L V8 Engines

For now, I will continue to run the OEM Wasted Spark Ignition Control but with individual GM V8-Style Coil Near Plug Ignition Coils. I will wire six of these coils in pairs replacing the standard triple dual- output Ignition Coil.
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Do you think the PCM will handle two coils in parallel? That’s a lot of current.
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B&M Transmission SuperCooler Kit

This Transmission Cooler will reside next to the Engine Oil Cooler in front of the A/C Condensor. It has a built-in thermostatic bypass control for quicker transmission warmups.
Do you think the PCM will handle two coils in parallel? That’s a lot of current.
We will see. It handled two simultaneous sparks from both ends of one coil while firing on every rotation of the engine. If it fails, I will go back to the 1991 setup or spring for an aftermarket ECM.
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I had one of those coolers on my '87 Camaro. Not only did I daily-drive it, I also drove it on road-race courses. Kept the trans cool enough through everything.
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I had a '69 Z/28 Camaro that I bought from two partners who planned to build a pro-stocker in early 1970. One of them got married and his racing career ended.
The car was mostly disassembled and had just 4 miles on odometer.
At the time I worked for a Chevrolet Engine Builder, Motor Sport Research. They built 5 Liter Chevy Road-Race engines and various small block and big block street and drag race engines.
I built a 4-bolt Main 327 with a forged crank, 302 Rods, 12.5 Sealed Power Pistons, a General Kinetics Cam, 2.02/1.60 1970 Heads Edelbrock Tarantula Manifold, 650 Double-Pumper, Headers, M22 4-Spd Trans, Hono-Drive Overdrive, 5.13 positraction gear, Z/28 Double-Leaf Road-Race Rear Springs, Koni Adjustable Shocks, Chevrolet Fiberglas Hood, Z/28 Cold-Air Plenum, custom 2.5" Exhaust w/ Corvair Turbo Mufflers, etc.
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Do you think the PCM will handle two coils in parallel? That’s a lot of current.
I was going to say the opposite. You may have a lot of issues using GM coils on your Mopar.

Your factory PCM has the ignitors built into the Computer. GM LS coils have the ignitors built into the coils. Ignitors are amplifiers and inverters.

Your factory PCM, I believe, shorts the ignition coil to ground. Which is to say, the coil has high amperage battery positive fed to it through the electrical system at all times, and the PCM connects a very high amperage from the coil to ground in order to fire the spark plug.
GM ECUs send a tiny amount of 5v or 12v positive to the ignition coil when it wants them to fire. The ignitor built into the coil amplifies the current, inverts it, and performs that same action of dumping high current B+ to ground.

The current issue may not be a problem, but the signals being inverted probably will be. The other searchable term, besides ignitor, is ignition control module.

A simple PNP transistor or PNP Mosfet would probably invert the signal and make GM coils fire correcty. But I'm not sure how the electronics inside the coil will behave. LS coils are 4 wire. Logic level signal positive, signal ground, battery positive, and chassis ground.

You might email Accel and ask, or look around Google. Depending on how robust the coils are, you might be able to hook your factory ignition signal to "Signal Ground", wire "Ignition Signal" to battery positive (really some EFI relay), wire the "Chassis Ground" to chassis ground, and wire the "Battery Positive" to the ASD Relay.
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View attachment 72083
1992 Chrysler SBEC II ECM

I bought this '92 ECM on ebay in hopes of running Individual Port Fuel Injection instead of 2-Port Batch Fuel Injection. Each Fuel Injector will now be energized one at a time. This ECM will necessitate changing to a different 1992-1993 Chrysler Minivan Fuel Injection Wiring Harness and a few other wiring changes.
I do not intend to run this ECM for very long. I am planning to rewire my van with a later model wiring harness that supports OBD2 and an aftermarket ECM Tuner.

View attachment 72085
View attachment 72084
ACCEL SuperCoil GM 2005-2011 4.8L-7.0L V8 Engines

For now, I will continue to run the OEM Wasted Spark Ignition Control but with individual GM V8-Style Coil Near Plug Ignition Coils. I will wire six of these coils in pairs replacing the standard triple dual- output Ignition Coil.
View attachment 72020
Chrysler 2008-2010 3.8 L Upper Oil Pan Part Number 4892386AA
I found this Upper Oil Pan on a Mopar ⁹parts site. It reduces windage by providing separation of Oil Sump from Rotating Crankshaft Assembly.
I was going to say the opposite. You may have a lot of issues using GM coils on your Mopar.

Your factory PCM has the ignitors built into the Computer. GM LS coils have the ignitors built into the coils. Ignitors are amplifiers and inverters.

Your factory PCM, I believe, shorts the ignition coil to ground. Which is to say, the coil has high amperage battery positive fed to it through the electrical system at all times, and the PCM connects a very high amperage from the coil to ground in order to fire the spark plug.
GM ECUs send a tiny amount of 5v or 12v positive to the ignition coil when it wants them to fire. The ignitor built into the coil amplifies the current, inverts it, and performs that same action of dumping high current B+ to ground.

The current issue may not be a problem, but the signals being inverted probably will be. The other searchable term, besides ignitor, is ignition control module.

A simple PNP transistor or PNP Mosfet would probably invert the signal and make GM coils fire correcty. But I'm not sure how the electronics inside the coil will behave. LS coils are 4 wire. Logic level signal positive, signal ground, battery positive, and chassis ground.

You might email Accel and ask, or look around Google. Depending on how robust the coils are, you might be able to hook your factory ignition signal to "Signal Ground", wire "Ignition Signal" to battery positive (really some EFI relay), wire the "Chassis Ground" to chassis ground, and wire the "Battery Positive" to the ASD Relay.
You are correct. I didn't mention how I plan to connect those coils to the OEM ECM. I used these coils previously on a motorcycle project where I ran into the same issue. I will use a homebrew low current 6-Channel High Side Switch to convert the negative ground ECM Ignition Outputs to positive signals suitable for the Accel Coils. I can buy the aumotive OEM grade electronic parts from Digi-Key and get the circuit board artwork from the device manufacturer. I can have the entire 6-channel switch made for about $50. I may have several made and sell them on ebay.
I ran into a similar situation while researching utilizing a MicroSquirt ECM Controller to drive the High Current Solenoids on a Chrysler 41TE Transmission. The 41TE Solenoids require an 8 Amp +12V current source. The Accel Ignition Coils can use a low-current lighter duty High Side Switch that is smaller and less costly.
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View attachment 72083
1992 Chrysler SBEC II ECM

I bought this '92 ECM on ebay in hopes of running Individual Port Fuel Injection instead of 2-Port Batch Fuel Injection. Each Fuel Injector will now be energized one at a time. This ECM will necessitate changing to a different 1992-1993 Chrysler Minivan Fuel Injection Wiring Harness and a few other wiring changes.
I do not intend to run this ECM for very long. I am planning to rewire my van with a later model wiring harness that supports OBD2 and an aftermarket ECM Tuner.

View attachment 72085
View attachment 72084
ACCEL SuperCoil GM 2005-2011 4.8L-7.0L V8 Engines

For now, I will continue to run the OEM Wasted Spark Ignition Control but with individual GM V8-Style Coil Near Plug Ignition Coils. I will wire six of these coils in pairs replacing the standard triple dual- output Ignition Coil.

You are correct. I didn't mention how I plan to connect those coils to the OEM ECM. I used these coils previously on a motorcycle project where I ran into the same issue. I will use a homebrew low current 6-Channel High Side Switch to convert the negative ground ECM Ignition Outputs to positive signals suitable for the Accel Coils. I can buy the aumotive OEM grade electronic parts from Digi-Key and get the circuit board artwork from the device manufacturer. I can have the entire 6-channel switch made for about $50. I may have several made and sell them on ebay.
I ran into a similar situation while researching utilizing a MicroSquirt ECM Controller to drive the High Current Solenoids on a Chrysler 41TE Transmission. The 41TE Solenoids require an 8 Amp +12V current source. The Accel Ignition Coils can use a low-current lighter duty High Side Switch that is smaller and less costly.
There should be some PNP transistor arrays out there. I found a few 3 and four channel ones, but you should be able to find an 8 channel to lower your component count. Just connect the OEM PCM coil wire to the Base/Gate, connect B+ to all of the Emitters/Sources or the common Emmiter if it's on a DIP IC chip, and connect the Collectors/Drains to the LS coil signal wire. You may or may not need pull-up or pull-down resistors on the base or collector pins.

An array in a convenient DIP chip package would be nice, but a handful of TO-92 transistors would be cheap too.

Or, there's a chance that the coils can just have the signal ground switched by your stock PCM. I'm not sure if that would mess with the dwell time on the LS Coils or make their internal ignitors fail to clamp/open.


I have the opposite problem. I bought two Bosch ignitors from an Audi to fire my Mopar COPs from the logic level MS3X. It's a stupid plan, I should just get LS coils like everyone else.
There should be some PNP transistor arrays out there. I found a few 3 and four channel ones, but you should be able to find an 8 channel to lower your component count. Just connect the OEM PCM coil wire to the Base/Gate, connect B+ to all of the Emitters/Sources or the common Emmiter if it's on a DIP IC chip, and connect the Collectors/Drains to the LS coil signal wire. You may or may not need pull-up or pull-down resistors on the base or collector pins.

An array in a convenient DIP chip package would be nice, but a handful of TO-92 transistors would be cheap too.

Or, there's a chance that the coils can just have the signal ground switched by your stock PCM. I'm not sure if that would mess with the dwell time on the LS Coils or make their internal ignitors fail to clamp/open.


I have the opposite problem. I bought two Bosch ignitors from an Audi to fire my Mopar COPs from the logic level MS3X. It's a stupid plan, I should just get LS coils like everyone else.
I used 0227100124 Bosch Ignitors on a different project. While searching for parts in my garage inventory for this build I found a couple of them. I also found a new Bosch Fuel Pump.
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2008-2010 3.8 L V6 Upper/Lower Oil Pan

I bought this Upper Oil Pan on ebay from a local Wrecking Yard. The lower Pan is from Dorman. The FelPro gasket is a standard 3.3/3.8 version.
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Here is the Ignition Coil setup from my 1475 cc V-Twin Harley Sportster Dual-Plug build. I will repurpose the coils for this build. I will have to buy two more Accel coils.
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1991 Dodge GC Injector/Sensor Harness

I checked the Injector Harness wiring from my late-1991 model GC to confirm it has SBEC1. It has the SBEC1 style batch paired injector wiring. The injectors fire in pairs: 1/6, 2/3, 4/5...
I am looking for a '92-'93 Injector Harness.
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Chrysler #4686777 ECM

THE 1992 ECM arrived today It had a software update tag from 1999.
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