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1991 3.3 Rebuild

4696 Views 127 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  donchicago48
My 91 Grand Caravan spun a rod bearing at 235,000 miles and 31 years. As luck would have it, I was 200 miles from home. I rented a UHaul Truck and Tow Dolley and towed the wounded vehicle home.
I began disassembling the engine in preparation for removal immediately. I found that the #4 rod bearing had spun and the#4 piston was hitting the cylinder head. All the other main and rod bearings looked fine.
The engine block had very little cylinder wall wear, about .003" - .004". There were no perceptible ridges at the tops of the cylinder walls. I decided to rebuild the engine myself except for machine shop operations.
Once the engine was out of the vehicle, I finished stripping the block of all parts and removed all the freeze and oil plugs. The camshaft and roller lifters were visibly worn. The pistons showed some skirt wear and the oil rings were fairly caked with oil deposits.
I pressure-washed the block and once all the oily grime was gone, I prepared it for an Electrolysis bath (see youtube) to clean the water passages. It did a great job of cleaning up all the invisible parts of the block. After about 48 hours of Electrolysis, I pulled the block out of the bath, pressure washed it again and treated it with WD40 Blast. I cleaned all the block threads with Taps and prepared to send it to a machine shop for cylinder boring and main bearing line boring (if needed).
Since there was only one 1991 block used for both 3.3 L and 3.8 L engines in 1991, I decided to have the block bored to 96 mm (3.780"). I found a set of 2007 3.8 L 96 mm bore flat top EUM Silvalite pistons that would work with my 3.3 L crankshaft and stock 6.18" rods. These pistons have 1.261" compression distance, the same as stock 3.3 L dished pistons. This engine will now be a 3.5 Liter engine with 9.7:1 compression.
I purchased a reground 3.3 crankshaft and matching main/rod bearings from Crankshaft Supply in Minneapolis, MN for $175. They provided fast shipping and excellent customer support. I recommend them highly. They provided a return shipping tag and refunded the $75 core charge quickly.
I found a reconditioned rod on ebay that was an exact replacement for my #4 Rod. It weighs almost exactly the same as the rest of the rods and has same forging number. I will weigh both ends of the rods and adjust weights as needed after the rods are reconditioned and fitted with new rod bolts. The new pistons will weigh more than the original ones, so the crank will need balancing.
I originally planned to use Hastings Moly Rings, but they could not ship before Christmas. Summit Racing customer support was excellent and arranged to cancel order from Hastinngs and refund my purchase price quickly. I found similar 1.2mm/1.5mm/3.0mm Moly Rings from Mahle on Amazon.
I ordered a new 3.8 L 4th Gen Cam, new lifters, valves, valve guides, valve seals, push rods, and rocker arms. I have not found new valve springs and will continue looking for a suitable replacement.
I will recondition the cylinder heads myself after the machine shop cleans and surfaces them. I also drilled and retapped the rocker shaft bosses for larger, longer bolts in order to help prevent rocker shat boss breakage. In the future, I may get later model cylinder heads, Intake and exhaust manifolds, and larger throttle body and air filter box.
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Differential Spider Gear Shaft Retainer

I am installing these retainers on the 41TE Transmission Differential. They prevent the Spider Gear Shaft from falling out and turning the Transmission into a large paperweight.
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I confirmed fitment of the 2008-2010 3.8L Upper/Lower Oil Pan assembly and the Oil Cooler Adapter on my venerable 1991 Block.
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View attachment 72130
Differential Spider Gear Shaft Retainer

I am installing these retainers on the 41TE Transmission Differential. They prevent the Spider Gear Shaft from falling out and turning the Transmission into a large paperweight.
Even better if you go pull the entire differential carrier out of an 04-07 Pacifica or 4th gen minivan. They have a fully enclosed, or windowless, differential carrier.

Fully enclosed carrier
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Aftermarket versus factory Differential pinion shaft retainer.
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I covered all the possible Gear ratio swaps here:



And the 2001+ 41TE also has a 5 pinion planetary gearset. The 3rd gen had a 4 pinion. The 1st or 2nd gen vans had a three planet set.

Third gen 4 planet
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4th gen 5 planet
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1991 Dodge GC Injector/Sensor Harness

I checked the Injector Harness wiring from my late-1991 model GC to confirm it has SBEC1. It has the SBEC1 style batch paired injector wiring. The injectors fire in pairs: 1/6, 2/3, 4/5...
I am looking for a '92-'93 Injector Harness.
I compared the 1991 and 1992 3.3 L V6 Fuel Injection schematic diagrams. It appears that there are only a few differences between the two years. If I cannot get a 1992 wiring harness, I will rewire the 1991 harness. The Fuel Injector circuits can be changed by rewiring just three injector wires and connecting them to the appropriate pins on the ECM. That will convert the injectors from batch mode to Sequential mode.
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1991 Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth Minivan ECM Connector Pinout (Courtesy Chilton's)

I used this chart and several Chilton's manuals to construct an Excel spreadsheet comparing the 1991 and 1992 ECM connector Pin Assignments. I learned some interesting things I didn't know about my 1991 DGC. For one, this chart lists a Detonation Sensor for the 1991 3.3 L V6. My late-1991 model does not have a detonation sensor. It also indicated that the 1992 model with the then new SBEC 2 ECM did not use an Intake Air Temp Sensor.
I observed that a few wire color markings were changed, and some new wires were added, mostly for the Sequential fuel injection mode. I can readily add those 3 wires if I can obtain some additional pins for the ECM Cable Connector. It rook hours to trace the tiny schematics in the 1984-1996 Chilton's Repair Manual. My earlier 1984-1991 manual had much better, larger schematics. The newer manuals did not have all the schematics necessary to troubleshoot the engine. What diagrams they had were tiny and almost unreadable even with a 5X magnifying loupe.
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I took the Transfer Gear cover and the Differential cover off my transmission today.
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There are no spider shaft retainers installed.
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There's no retainer on your output gear either. The transfer shaft gear rotates clockwise in Drive, so the nut gets tightened constantly by engine torque, not a problem. The output shaft gear however, it rotates counter clockwise from engine torque, and so the bolt can be loosened by engine torque.

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Perfect time to swap final drive ratios, if you want to.
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I will get a 3.8 L gear pair at the wrecking yard. I ordered a 1.5" impact socket today for the output gear nut.
I will see what it takes to swap the gears
It may take a new bearing.
I will get a 3.8 L gear pair at the wrecking yard. I ordered a 1.5" impact socket today for the output gear nut.
I will see what it takes to swap the gears
It may take a new bearing.
The bearings are pressed onto the gear. Just make sure to keep track of which shim goes with which gear. The necessary shim is determined by the transmission case. So, you want to reuse your shims, not the donor shims.
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There are no spider shaft retainers installed.
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Spider Shaft Retainer in place. Removed two bolts with impact wrench, cleaned bolts and holes in ring gear with Brake Cleaner, let it dry, then put Retainer in place, put a drop of Red Loctite on bolt threads before running bolts down and torquing them to 70 ft-lbs.
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Removing Output Shaft Gear Bolt with 38mm Impact Socket.
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1993-1995 Radiator, A/C Condensor, and Fan Assembly.

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The bearings are pressed onto the gear. Just make sure to keep track of which shim goes with which gear. The necessary shim is determined by the transmission case. So, you want to reuse your shims, not the donor shims.
I decided to get 3.8 Ring and pinion set instead. That will give me a 3.91 final drive gear ratio. Now all I need is a higher stall speed torque converter.
My next task is to disassemble the Valve Body on the A604/41TE Transmission and install a TransGo SK-604 Shift Kit. I will also remove the Solenoid Body and check the seals and coils in it.
I am searching for a higher stall speed Torque Convertor.
I am also considering buying a collision-totaled 2010 Chrysler/Dodge Vehicle with a 3.8L V6 and 62TE Transmission if the price is right. I could exchange the OBD2 PCM for a reprogrammed, unlocked unit and use an aftermarket PCM Programmer like HP Tuners. I would use the vehicle's engine/transmission wiring harness to control my engine and transmission. I would use an NGC Flexplate and NGC Cam Timing Gear set.
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GM LS V8 Ignition Coil Near Plug Bracket

I found this inexpensive GM LS V8 Ignition Coil Bracket set on ebay. It has a GM V8 wiring harness. I will remove one Coil Mount and one Coil Pigtail from each bracket. I will fabricate hardware to mount the brackets on my V6 Cylinder Heads.
Here is one of the Accel Ignition Coils that I will mount on these brackets:
Plastic Font Auto part Cleanliness Composite material

And here is an LS Harness Extension Cable:
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I will use two of these to connect the LS Coil Bracket Harnesses to the ECM or ECM Adapter Ignition Output.

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Rectangle Schematic Font Slope Parallel

Here are wiring diagrams for the LS V8 left and right cylinder banks. The Cylinder Numbering is the same as the Chrysler 3.3/3.8 L V6 with two more cylinders. I will simply remove the unneeded Ignition Coil Connectors for Cylinders 7 and 8 and remove or repurpose the unused wires.
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And here are the updated 6-cylinder versions of the wiring diagrams:
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Rectangle Slope Schematic Font Parallel
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And here are the updated 6-cylinder versions of the wiring diagrams:
View attachment 72353
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After further review, I will not use the 1992 DGC SBEC2 ECM to control fuel and ignition on this build. I ordered an MSPRO3 EVO ECM from AMPEFI. That will give me full control of the engine and ability to tune on the fly.
In order to change tuning without hooking up a laptop computer, I ordered a 12.3" Digital Dashboard from Digital Dash EFI. This Dash connects directly to the MS3PRO3 ECM with the USB Tuning Cable. The Dash runs TunerStudio and can be connected to Bluetooth or USB input devices.
Installing the Digital Dash requires significant modifications to the stock dashboard frame. It requires a lot of cutting of the plastic housing to make room for the wider Dash and its electronics. I will also have to trim the Digital Dash Bezel to fit my Dash housing.

My DGC Dash before modifications
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Here is the modified 1991 DGC Dash Housing with the unmodified cover. There should be enough room to fit the Digital Dash. I will use the cover as a template for trimming the Digital Dash Bezel to fit. Once the Digital Dash Bezel is trimmed, I will insert it into the modified Housing and check the fit. The six screws that hold the cover on will clamp the Digital Dash Bezel to the Housing. I will show the final appearance once I get the Digital Dash and finish installing it.
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