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My 1993 Dodge Caravan (AWD) with 200K miles & a 3.3 has an Intermittent Idle & electrical interruption problem. When idling or under light acceleration the engine dies for a split second; all gauges fall / bounce to zero, and the radiator cooling fan, A/C compressor relays click (open) when this happens. All interior lights dim for split second and seem to flutter like a voltage fluctuation(?) is happening. Engine idle usually recovers, but when idle settles down, the problem ocurs again- intermittently. Sometimes when engine idling, it stalls completely, but will restart but only after after returning the ignition to "off" first (to reset fuel pump relay?). Problem happens at different intervals; sometime runs for a couple of minutes to a half-hour with no problem, other times happens repeatedly every few seconds. Engine runs fine in between occurances; moderate to wide open throttle is normal & engine pulls fine. Problem happens more when cold, but still occurs when hot. No ECM codes- reads 12 & 55 (normal?). Battery & Alternator are nearly new and are working fine- no voltage fluctuations there.
Chrysler dealer did diag & said is bad ECM, I replaced it and same problem. Local garage did scan and all readings appeared OK, except EGR showed "blocked". I replaced the EGR Valve & its vacuum controler; no change. I replaced the TPS, and removed & cleaned throttle body; problem same. I checked the ignition switch visually & inspected the pig-tail connector and it appears OK, no signs of heat or corrosion on the connections. Anybody out there have any ideas and / or some electrical schematics I can get a hold of and check some voltage readings at suggested check-points? I've read some other sites which suggest a "Power Module" voltage drop causing power relays to open interupting power (Z1? Z2?) to the ignition coils, gauges, fuel pump, cooling fan & A/C, etc. Where is the "Power Modual" on this unit? '93 models do NOT have the Auto Shut Down & Fuel Pump Relays on the left inner fender like the earlier vans did- I think. Someone suggested a bad MAP sensor, but this van does not appear to be running rich; it runs like a bear and I don't want to have to give it up for something like this. Help! Thx, Matt In SC
 

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A good clue here is you have to cycle the key off/on before it will restart. 1 thing that can cause that is if the 8 volt supply (orange wire that power the cam and crank sensors) get shorted. Look for damage to the cam/crank wiring, possible bad sensor(s). Cycling the key resets the voltage supply from within the module.
PS; no "power modules" since about 1987??.
 

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My old 93 had a similar problem when I had it years ago. It would do that when going down the highway. just every once in a while the gauges would all drop and return. And if I was in cruse control it would release and had to be reset. I never did find the true cause but was told that 93 had a software glitch problems. I just lived with it.
Hank
 

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My 2 cents , sorry I didn’t read the entire post I’m a ass and looking for a 2nd gen body control module BCM wiring Diagram but I had a intermittent stalling Issue related to air bubbles in the coolant jacket , throwing the coolant temp to choke you could keep it alive but would stall at any speed under 5mph
 

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P.S. uninstalling and reinstalling the coolant temp sensor after air passes and coolant gushes out solved the majority of my stalling issues 93 GVoyager 3.3 /2.3 v6 FWD , and remember safety third never work on a hot coolant system as you’ll likely get scolded. literally , at least throw a rag over first if your in a tight situation and don’t pollute coolant is toxic Especially to anything with taste buds I hate the internet world is ****ed
 
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