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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Alright, there was a member here who was gonna test out compatibility between 4th gen and 3rd gen rear cv axles/half-shafts but has since vanished.

I am gonna do it for everyone, once and for all. I can’t keep driving on torn boot, clanking rear cvs.

PASS Side:

3rd Gen is IDENTICAL and bolts right up. Ignore the “length” difference, as the old cv is disintegrating and popped out (refuses to stay together)
Squished they are the SAME.

Please see pic of the 3rd gen axle installed in my 4th gen. Splines line up in wheel bearing, spindle hub is the same, it’s literally the same other than not having tripodal boots.

Driver’s side is 6 inches + longer. Stay tuned. I am gonna try to kit bash third gen ends and maybe inner bearings, with the fourth gen center shaft.

Cliffs: 3rd gen pass side rear cv is a direct bolt on replacement in 4th gen.

Driver’s side: stay tuned.

59264

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Driver’s side update!

i took apart both my long 4th gen driver’s rear cv and my brand new 3rd gen rear cv. Here is what I found:

The inner bearing spindles are near identical (size, wheels, width & height) EXCEPT the splines. Gen 4 has more splines, gen 3 has less.
That being said... gen 4 inner spindles fit into gen 3 spindle housings perfectly.

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gen 4 top, gen 3 bottom.

Simply put, you can swap out the wheels and bearings on the spindles if yours are worn out, or simply use your gen 4 ones inside of gen 3 ends.

Done.

Our rear cv axles are no longer NLA. Simply use gen 3 on pass side and a hybrid gen 3/4 on driver’s side.

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angle of the pic makes the innards look different, they aren’t. I measured.

I didn’t have any new CV grease, picking it up tomorrow. I will post an assembled product tomorrow. No more tripodal boots from Latvia, no more stress, no more mess.

Why some company doesn’t simply make an elongated gen 3 shaft with gen 3 splines And ends for a gen4 I don’t know. The pass side is a perfect fit with zero modifications...

it wouldn’t take much to make these parts no longer nla...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Update 3: Drivers side.
I picked up cv grease and i am building the 3/4 gen shaft
The boot is a tad looser on the shaft, just a miniscule amount.

the 3rd gen spring pops right on perfectly
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ultimately, the slight loosness on the boot re: shaft makes no difference when clamped. I reused the clamps from the new parts pile and clamped them exactly at the factory clamp bend, boot doesn’t budge on the shaft. It stays put. No spinning or looseness

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
And all done. Lets call it a 3.5gen shaft. Beside the old gen 4 tripodal shaft. (Same length as both gen 3 sides)


NLA? I don’t think so! Hopefully this helps all awd people with the same issue.


I am gonna quickly spray it with black paint to prevent rust and it goes in this eve. Its boiling hot right now
59277
 

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Awesome and THANK YOU for putting in the work, getting greasy, and taking pics and documenting this! In this humidity and heat no less! Kudos to you. I had a hunch something could be made to work. I like the trilobal outer CV's because they offer room to get a socket and ratchet in behind the backing plate to remove the rear hub/backing plate without removing the axle shaft.

I have an idea to cut the old trilobal CV boot "lobes" off and put a new round CV boot over them, and clamp it that way. If that would work, then easy to get CV boot replacements and keep the old trilobal CV "tulips".
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Awesome and THANK YOU for putting in the work, getting greasy, and taking pics and documenting this! In this humidity and heat no less! Kudos to you. I had a hunch something could be made to work. I like the trilobal outer CV's because they offer room to get a socket and ratchet in behind the backing plate to remove the rear hub/backing plate without removing the axle shaft.

I have an idea to cut the old trilobal CV boot "lobes" off and put a new round CV boot over them, and clamp it that way. If that would work, then easy to get CV boot replacements and keep the old trilobal CV "tulips".
Most welcome. Honestly even without the tripods, still plenty of space for a wrench and a socket wrench and even a torque wrench. Just do what i did and you’ll be fine!

you can do it that way too, but new is new and nice and clank free!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
First drive today, everything is right as rain. Also changed out the fluid in the diff and overrrunning clutch. Pro tip: undo the rear bolt holding the gastank strap closest to the rear wheel and slide the gastank over to gain access to the filler bolt on the overrun clutch
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Dan, i was tired and misunderstood. You meant the other side, duh. Honestly, you are right but at this point, MEH! These axles work perfectly, if i have to remove them to do a wheel bearing, so be it. I’ll take that over chitty clanky bang bang anyday!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just an update! Lots of heavy suspension flex offroading sessions since I did this, and no issues with the rear CVs at all. Even on full suspension flex, they do not bind or cause any issues. 3rd gen for pass side, and 3.5 gen kitbash for Driver's side is the solution. I'll be making a voice over video for youtube of this. This should be widely spread for anyone who has a awd and feels hopelessly stuck as parts wear and there are no replacements.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
UPDATE - Since I am in Colorado, I dug around Denver and found a shop called CVJ Axles who can rebild the Gen 4 half shafts for $250.00ish. 800-292-2953
OR... you can buy gen 3 for $100 for both, kitbash the driver’s side with your old longer 4th gen inner shaft and spindles, and have brand new ones...

Its a no brainer, and significantly cheaper
 
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