2001 T&C No crank, no spark (Fuel Pump?)

519 Views 24 Replies 8 Participants Last post by Turbo84, 10 h ago

Simpleton7016

Discussion Starter · 9 d ago

So my 2001 T&C (3.3 l) was running spectacularly until two months ago it would start after my sons soccer game. (Btw, I had just filled the gas tank less than 5 miles before). I had it towed home and posed some questions to the group under the thread “PCM Swap - VIN decoding”. I am just now getting around to troubleshooting the van.

The symptoms: I had a no crank, no spark situation. There was a single click at the starter relay. When I jumped pins 87 and 30, it spun just fine, but no spark. I read every forum post I could find and was pretty sure it had to be the TransmissionRange Sensor (TRS). I was finally going to perform the necessary surgery this weekend, but decided first to test all the relays and fuses on more time. Everything checked out except there was a very light ‘spark’ when I was plugging in the fuel pump fuse. I went in the cabin and the van fired right up. I drove it a few miles and everything was great. I turned it off and tried to start it again and same issue. I pulled the two circled fuses, wiggled around the female ends, plugged the fuses back in and voila, she started again. After nearly a dozen driving cycles, the symptoms are somewhat sporadic.

My thoughts: I wonder if it is the fuel pump. The gas gauge has been wholly unreliable for more than a year, so I am now thinking that is the root problem. Would a faulty fuel pump cause the no crank, no spark?

Either way, I need to burn off a metric crap-ton of fuel before dropping the tank!

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atoman

· #3 · 9 d ago

Simpleton7016 said:
decided first to test all the relays and fuses on more time. Everything checked out except there was a very light ‘spark’ when I was plugging in the fuel pump fuse. I went in the cabin and the van fired right up

Since probing at IPM changed your symptoms, it would be wise to check the box, connectors & wires underneath for corrosion...

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atoman

· #8 · 8 d ago

Simpleton7016 said:
I see no corrosion under the IPM at all. But the pictured fuses are encased and not accessible.

re: the possibility that it is the crank sensor…wouldn’t that trip a code?

To see anything, you need to at least disconnect the connectors and look at pins for any green oxidation. The box comes apart and some of those contacts are loose pins inside, others are attachec to pcb. The printed circuit board will only be exposed from the bottom, the top plastic is riveted? or secured somehow to the board... If you try to dig into it, take plenty of pictures for re-assembly aid. You do have to pull all relays and fuses to get it all apart.

CKP sensor failure does not always result in a code, but it's usually not randomly intermittent (it can be temp related but not randomly inop.)

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atoman

· #17 · 2 d ago

Assuming these measurements are with engine off, you need to check and clean the ground points (studs and spades/wiring terminals). Start with the one under battery tray, but should also do the others under hood and at (in front of) B pillar (and perhaps further back as needed)

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atoman

· #21 · 21 h ago

Simpleton7016 said:
.When I am in a cycle of no crank, no spark, the “key dance” absolutely will not work. When it is in a cycle of operation, the key dance works fine and I get the disconnected battery code (p1684)…and only that code. If the ignition coil is bad, it should throw a code, right? Anyway, I just replaced the coil not that long ago.

Does it 'prime' the fuel pump and turn accessories on (and off for start/crank) when you turn the key (in a 'rut' cycle of no crank)?
Is the ignition switch sending correct MUX value to the module? (is what I'm getting at)

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