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Could still be idle air control valve. When mine went bad, sometimes it would idle at correct RPM... other times it would idle very low, occasionally dieing. A few times I caught it stuck idling high... like 1200 RPM instead of 750 or so.

What makes me doubt the idle air valve though is if you can have it idle correctly at the correct RPM and then have it die when you shift into gear. Not sure how idle air valve might explain that...

What I do know is that my van never gave me an error for the idle air control even though it clearly ended up being my problem.
 

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Hopefully some other folks here will be able to offer more suggestions.

In the meantime, you might try cleaning up the ground point under the battery, checking the connections under the IPM/Fuse/Relay box, and cleaning up your battery connections to see if that buys you anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Well I'll find out where the IAC is and take a look at it tomorrow where can I get the disc if you know for the cam sensor and I'm guessing I'm thinking it's got to be the cam or the crank sensor or both because it comes up as no signal from them
As for getting under the fuse box I don't think that's possible if you're talkin about where the negative cable 2 the engine for ground I can certainly clean that I bought this man about a year-and-a-half ago I maintain it well I have a lift here that I can use in a friend of mine has a transmission shop I always keep on top of it and it's never really giving me major problems except for now but thank you for your help
 

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Hmmm... review on that part seems a bit scary. Maybe ask the auto parts store folks for the correct one.

Or somebody else here might know
 

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Would also do some searches here on the forum... I believe the shim thing has been discussed a number of times... and I'm also pretty sure you can buy the shims individually.
 

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As for IPM/Fuse box, I believe you remove the battery and then there should be a way to unbolt the fuse box to check connections underneath. Ground point that commonly causes problems for folks is underneath the battery tray. If you do some searches here you'll find a ton of info about electrical issues chased down to one or more of these locations.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Well just got done doing some more work on it I took the cam sensor I made a little piece of paper spacer try that try different spacings nothing helps I took the battery terminal off where it connects to the battery I have a quick disconnect there and I drill the holes through that piece of hard copper at the end of the original cable bolt it on tight her better ground I tried running the car with the alternator disconnected the alternator made a noise and I put the alternator cable back now it still makes a noise I took the throttle body off the IAC and the throttle position sensor and cleaned everything with carb and choke cleaner and map sensor cleaner all the wire connections the valve everything all the truck is out of it I've everything I switched out the top sensor in the top of the manifold to Max pressure fitting whatever it's called clean that cleaned the original one and one from a 3.3 caravan switching back and forth made no difference I did not take any ground wires off underneath the battery or anything else yet I seem to get from people that it is the flywheel that is cracked now when it's in park it's all right if I put it in forward reverse or neutral with my foot on the brake and trying to keep it running the speedometer moves up to 20 miles an hour back and forth if anyone has any thoughts on why that's happening I thought it was the speed sensor I spoke to mechanic friend of mine he says it's probably the flywheel so any thoughts would be appreciated thank you to everyone

I'm trying to find out what caused it is because basically I'm unemployed almost broke and homeless actually living in a place in return for doing some work here with my two dogs if it wasn't for my two dogs I wouldn't care I wouldn't even be here
 

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No one has suggested it yet - - TPS? Also, it's a 2001 so it could have the fried injector harness problem. That harness also ties into the MAP sensor and other things on the intake manifold. This issue does sound like an electrical problem. It starts fine so the cam and crank sensors are working.

Could also be alternator? We once had a 2001 Grand Prix 3100 that seemed to always have the check engine light on. I fixed enough stuff to get rid of most of the codes except 2, which were manufacturer controlled. Weird. Replacing the #2 O2 sensor once cleared the light/codes for about 100 miles, then it came back. Finally when the alternator died and I replaced it, I found a shorted diode inside the old alternator. That would have caused AC current to mix with the DC current, confusing the computer. After installing the new alternator, the check engine light was finally banished!! The old alternator would have tested fine at the auto parts stores, which is misleading.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Well I thought of that too and I did take out the TPS and clean it as well as the connectors the IAC ,everything
I saw a video where an alternator was putting out too much current and confusing the crank signal so I did with the guy did in the video I disconnected the alternator wire started the car the alternator made a noise it made no difference running I shut it off and put the wire back on the alternator and now the alternator continues to make a loud whining noise and it's still putting out 13.39 volts .
several people are saying it's the flywheel it's still running terrible I cleaned the the battery terminals with a drill and a wire wheel I took the ground off the frame underneath the battery tray cleaned it with a wire wheel.......it started right up no problem I thought I fixed it and then it starts acting up again
forward reverse neutral with the engine running stepping on the brake the speedometer goes to 20 miles an hour and in park it goes back down to zero
sometimes it runs really rough and stays running at about 400 RPM very very low like it's missing on every cylinder the check engine light is on and I'm assuming it's for the same thing a p1391 for Cam and crank according to the live data stream that I put on it two days ago Cam and crank well listed as no signal or just said no one there I tried disconnecting the cam sensor today and it did not run of course I put a little paper spacer on the end of the cam sensor trying to change the Gap made no difference I did not take the crank sensor out

I was just going to replace the flywheel this thing is driving me nuts I'm trying to get it to last long enough till I can afford a better one I will try and switch out the TPS and see if that makes a difference there is a junked 3.3 caravan here and it should be the same TPS is my 3.8 2001
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Oh and I did look at the wire harnesses and everything like that I did not see any burnt insulation and according to the live data stream there are no misfires at all
 

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Seems like that Genisys Evo scanner should be able to monitor the throttle position for you so you can see if there's anything weird happening to the throttle position reading while actuating the accelerator.
 

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Presumably, the EVO can also do real-time data logging? If so, I'd say to do some data logging runs that involve starting out idling and then slowly pressing the accelerator. Then go back and view the data plots to see if anything stands out, such as an erroneous throttle position. If the Evo can show plots, this would be a good way to look for any sudden changes in data that occur during slow/gradual actuation of the accelerator.

Anyone with a Genisys Evo, feel free to chime in here... I use a Snap-on Solus Ultra personally, so I'm assuming the Genisys Evo is comparable, but I don't know for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Well it's just a datastream it's not a scope but it can record I believe I'm going to try and just switch out the TPS tomorrow with one from a 3.3 caravan
and see if I borrow the scanner within the next day or two
 

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I once had a car that would randomly act up on occasion and I'd likely have never figured out what was going on if I hadn't done some driving around while logging in real-time until the issue occurred. Once I logged the issue I was immediately able to see that the temperature sensor was erroneously dropping from the correct 200 degrees or so down to 80 degrees for short periods of time, thus causing the problem. Have been hooked on data logging ever since.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
The coolant temperature is there it's 219 it ran much better after I clean off the ground contacts I thought it was fixed but I'm going to take it for a ride right now to the mailbox it just hard to start sometimes I got stuck at Walmart about 15 minutes yesterday couldn't get out of the parking lot at died going uphill nuts
 
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