The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello,


So I am swapping the trans out on a 2002 Chrysler Voyager, with the 4 Cyl motor, and 4 sp. trans. I originally thought I'd have to pull the motor first, so I began removing connectors, etc. When I got the trans back in, I noticed the wire to the coil pack was pretty tight- it was then I realized I had switched it with the wire for the cam sensor.

I tried to start it in this condition. I do not know what I fried, but there is no spark. Ignition fuse looks good.

Does anyone know what I need to do next? What I need to replace?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
So I did some tests. The wire that goes to the coil pack (easily) is outputting 8V to ground. Which is what the cam sensor should be getting. The cam sensor is getting 15 VDC to ground (??!?) which is a little more than the coil pack should be getting. But when I try and switch them, I really have to stretch the entire harness to get it to the coil pack. I really need help. You are not supposed to be able to switch connectors like that.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,131 Posts
I believe the connectors are similar. You can view pin-out info for the parts as well as some harness info by going to the WellsVE website.
You can also go to the Mopar repair connectors website and lookup the pin-out info there as well.
Just go the sites and lookup the parts, the info should be associated with it.

http://www.wellsve.com/

http://connectors.dcctools.com/home.htm
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,773 Posts
So I did some tests. The wire that goes to the coil pack (easily) is outputting 8V to ground. Which is what the cam sensor should be getting. The cam sensor is getting 15 VDC to ground (??!?) which is a little more than the coil pack should be getting. But when I try and switch them, I really have to stretch the entire harness to get it to the coil pack. I really need help. You are not supposed to be able to switch connectors like that.
First welcome to the site..
This is a common mistake that people do on this 2.4L engine, especially when doing head work on a PT Cruiser. The connectors will interchange.
The wiring that goes to the cam sensor should have a orange wire, that is your 8 volt supply. You may have just burned up your cam sensor when you were trying to start it .
Try starting it with the cam sensor unplugged. You will have a longer than normal cranking time but if everything else is correct it will start and run.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
First welcome to the site..
This is a common mistake that people do on this 2.4L engine, especially when doing head work on a PT Cruiser. The connectors will interchange.
The wiring that goes to the cam sensor should have a orange wire, that is your 8 volt supply. You may have just burned up your cam sensor when you were trying to start it .
Try starting it with the cam sensor unplugged. You will have a longer than normal cranking time but if everything else is correct it will start and run.

Thank you for the welcome. I wish it was under different circumstances.

I tried disconnecting the camshaft position sensor and cranking it for some time. It did not fire.

Things are just bizarre. All I did was remove some connectors (not all of them) from the engine, and replace the trans. There is a 4 conductor connector on the trans side of the motor, that looks like it has not been connected to anything (It is dusty, inside and out) that I cannot figure out where it goes.

When I turn the key on, to crank, nothing happens.

When I turn the key off, and remove it, everything stays on. It was not like this before I replaced the trans. Dash lights stay on, everything still has power up front.

Coil pack has eight volts of power. Camshaft position sensor has 14 volts or so of power.

Camshaft position sensor has the output/ no output when the engine is turned by hand. It seems to be working fine.

Crankshaft position sensor has 14 volts going to it. It has the output/ no output when the engine is turned by hand. It seems to be working fine.

It has no spark in any condition.

Coil pack has a steady 8 volts, and so does pin 3. It does not pulse when the engine is cranked. It has a steady voltage. No spark.

Pin 1 that fires cylinders two and three, has no pulse, even when the engine is turned over.

All of the voltages are weird. The crankshaft position sensor should be getting 8V, not 14. The coil pack should be getting 12V, not 8. The camshaft position sensor should be getting 8V, not 14. In spite of the fact that both the crank and cam sensors seem to be working fine (Allbeit at higher voltages) there is no spark, and no pulse to the coil pack. One side is getting steady firing voltage, with no pulses, the other side gets nothing.

How did I do this just by changing the trans, and accidentally swapping two connectors?

Help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I am very embarrassed. It was the negative side of the battery terminal that wasn't on tight enough. I wiggled it, and everything seemed to come on, so I tightened it, and it started up and drives.

Thank you guys for all of your help!
 

·
20 year old enthusiast
Joined
·
10,108 Posts
No need to be embarrassed! Mistakes do happen, and you have proven, like many others have, that a loose battery connection can do weird things to your vehicle. Thanks for posting the fix and glad it's all working now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,956 Posts
wolf,

The batt terminal may have been corroded a bit and when you moved the clamp it cleaned off the corrosion, happens all the time:)

I loosen slightly and move mine back and forth every month or two just for this reason.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
wolf,

The batt terminal may have been corroded a bit and when you moved the clamp it cleaned off the corrosion, happens all the time:)

I loosen slightly and move mine back and forth every month or two just for this reason.
Actually, I never tightened them. I just slipped them snugly over the terminals. I have always done this to check things out. But the negative wire going to the electronics needs to be tightened against the terminal connector to make a good connection. I tightened both terminals on their posts and everything worked perfectly.

Except, well, it takes a while to start, like it has a vacuum leak. I may have fried the camshaft sensor after all. The SES light is on, I will read it and see what it wants. But at least it drives now :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,956 Posts
To quickly clean the terminals the clamps need to be loose enough to move slightly.

After that they need to be tight. Take my word for it, these vans are voltage sensitive - note all the threads about alternators.

I just recently found a crazy, frustrating field voltage problem on my RV was caused by a very slightly loose terminal on the 300amp alt!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
It can be frustrating when a connection micro-welds itself together, making you think it's good. Things must be clean and tight... I learned a valuable lesson yesterday.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,773 Posts
Actually, I never tightened them. I just slipped them snugly over the terminals. I have always done this to check things out. But the negative wire going to the electronics needs to be tightened against the terminal connector to make a good connection. I tightened both terminals on their posts and everything worked perfectly.

Except, well, it takes a while to start, like it has a vacuum leak. I may have fried the camshaft sensor after all. The SES light is on, I will read it and see what it wants. But at least it drives now :)
I foresee a P0340/P0344 code(s) in you furture...:sorcerer:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,956 Posts
I forgot to mention how useful the cheap green knob neg batt disconnect switches are for maintenance and emergencies (when madly looking for a wrench while smoke is rising:).

I have them on all vehicles, learned the hard way when my Jeep starter stuck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,006 Posts
tundrawolf,
Good fortune and way to preserver. However, I lost "the end of the story". Was it correct that the coil pack connector truly measures 8 V power and the cam sensor full battery voltage (when disconnected)? Hard to believe. On most of our cars, 8 V power goes just to the cam and crank sensors. Actually, on my 2002 T&C it appeared to also go to a component under the front driver's side bumper (ABS box?) when I dug thru the harness to fix a "misses"/"dies" problem (fixed, but not positive how).
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
About this Discussion
14 Replies
6 Participants
BillGrissom
The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums
ChryslerMinivan.net is the best forum for Chrysler Town and Country owners to discuss mileage, price, problems, towing and more. Join now!
Full Forum Listing
Top