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Discussion Starter #1
OK. I hate to start a new thread, but I have read through hundreds of pages and piles of threads related to this issue with little if no mention of my problem. So, here goes:

I had the same issue that several other members have had-a sticking or non working window. The "slam" method didn't work. And since the regulator is only $40 bucks, I bought one and replaced it thinking that would fix my problem.

I installed the new part and after going up and down 3-4 times, it quit. Let it sit for a few and it may or may not work. This is all on the driver side of the van. Now, the passenger side, which isn't used nearly as much, is doing the same thing. It will come down but not go up. So I figured, must be in the switch somewhere. Sometimes when I freak out on the switch (move it back and forth fast), it will start working again. So, naturally I remove the switch and clean all the contacts. And BOOM-same problem.

So my question is this. What the heck is going on? Does the switch itself-not the motor and regulator-have a temperature interlock?

Again, the driver side motor and regulator are brand new and lubed. Thing is, the window, when it works, will only go up an inch or so before failing (unless I help it). So I know something is overloaded. But I wouldn't think a brand new part would be messed up already. And by brand new I mean a week old. But it's been doing it since I installed it.

What I plan to do is pull the panel and run a 12 volt direct connection to the window motor and see if it works. Also, I am going to lube/grease the tracks again and apply Vaseline to the window molding/weather strip (unless someone knows of another substance to use). But in the mean time, I am open for suggestions.

So all you how to guru's chime in and lemme know what the heck is going on. Thanks in advance.........
 

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Stay away from those cheap window regulators and get either an OEM, Dorman or the like. Don't use Vaseline. It will just gum up the works. Use a silicone spray lube. Tap in a meter at the motor connection. If you get 12vdc when you throw the switch the motor is toast.
 

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Stay away from those cheap window regulators and get either an OEM, Dorman or the like. Don't use Vaseline. It will just gum up the works. Use a silicone spray lube. Tap in a meter at the motor connection. If you get 12vdc when you throw the switch the motor is toast.
+1.........
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for chiming in with your opinion and help ideas.:ThumbsUp: Been outta town and haven't had time to do anything else but I did check the thread. So.....

Don't use Vaseline. It will just gum up the works. Use a silicone spray lube.
I mean on the window stripping. . I saw in another thread where someone suggested that. Wipe it down with a thin coat then clean it off. But silicon should work well too.

Tap in a meter at the motor connection.If you get 12vdc when you throw the switch the motor is toast. [/
Not sure what to do here. You mean check the voltage on the motor while in use or the leads going to it? Shouldn't I get 12V DC?

And I know the motors on Ebay are knock offs, but I've gotten 2 before for other vehicles and they have been great. My thing with the windows now is that even when they stop, most, if not all the time, I can "help" them up and they will go. So again, I know it's overload somewhere. Again, I didn't get a chance yet to run a wire straight from a 12 volt source, but I'm going to. And going to pick up some silicon spray today as well to spray down the window seals/weather stripping and see if that helps.
 

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You "might" have two different issues. I'm guessing on the driver side, you got a new window regulator unit including a new motor? Does your old motor (if you have it) fit on the new regulator assembly?

My passenger side window stopped working. I removed the motor, cleaned off the top, adddd a little grease to the bottom pin, reinstalled, and it now works like new (had black gunk /carbon fall on the top, motor is oriented vertically and it catches crap falling from above). Cost = $0
http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/2997-How-to-remove-interior-door-panel
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You "might" have two different issues. I'm guessing on the driver side, you got a new window regulator unit including a new motor? Does your old motor (if you have it) fit on the new regulator assembly?

My passenger side window stopped working. I removed the motor, cleaned off the top, adddd a little grease to the bottom pin, reinstalled, and it now works like new (had black gunk /carbon fall on the top, motor is oriented vertically and it catches crap falling from above). Cost = $0
http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/2997-How-to-remove-interior-door-panel

Yes. The old motor fits. And I plans to removed the passenger motor this weekend. But does that explain it working fine sometimes and sometimes not working at all? I guess so. Kinda like when a starter begins to go bad. Just tap it and it'll fix itself. Thing is, I cleaned the driver motor and contacts and it didn't help at all. We'll see what I find this weekend. Thanks for the reply.
 

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Yeah, I can't explain your driver side since it has a new regulator & motor.

But on the passenger side, yes, the gunk gets loosened up from slamming or just driving around, so it worked intermittently, or with a little "push" up or down on the glass. Fromwhat I've read here, the passenger window seems to be affected by this more since it gets used less, so the gunk just gets to sit there and accumulate

Good luck with it this weekend!
 

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...... My passenger side window stopped working. I removed the motor, cleaned off the top, adddd a little grease to the bottom pin, reinstalled, and it now works like new (had black gunk /carbon fall on the top, motor is oriented vertically and it catches crap falling from above). Cost = $0
http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/2997-How-to-remove-interior-door-panel
Ditto for my driver-side window motor which, after the same cleaning, is back to working fine again. Before cleaning it up, I noticed a small RPM drop while trying the window with the van idling in P. There was definitly lots of juice being pulled by the motor trying to spin. So if your window motor isn't rolling the window, but you get the RPM drop, I think it's worth a shot to remove the motor and try cleaning it. It's a fairly simple thing to try, once the door panel has been opened up.
 
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