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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I know there has been countless threads out here on the power doors, and I do believe that I have read ALL of them, and have yet to spot my problem. The drivers sliding door will open fine with all buttons while the ignition is off (remote, pillar, and overhead). Now with the ignition on I know that the remote is made not to work, so that takes that out of the equation. That leaves me with the overhead and the pillar buttons. I know for a fact that the lock is not set, and the child proof is also not set behind the sliding door as I have checked both of these things. The problem itself is that the slider won't open by pushing the pillar button when the ignition is on. It will only open from the overhead button. The passenger side slider will open by pillar button or overhead button just fine. I don't think the button on the pillar has gone bad because it works fine with the ignition off..... Any suggestions?
 

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Perhaps there's an issue with either the "shift selector in Park" or "Gas tank filler door open" lockouts on that button. I'd suspect the former since it only happens when the ignition is on.

I've noticed some intermittent quirks with the 30 second (or however long it is) lockout feature on mine. Sometimes when my kid opens the door with the pillar button, he "accidentally" pushes the button twice, which interrupts the open sequence. Also, I'm in the habit of pushing the console button for passengers to exit without first making sure they aren't also about to push the pillar button or open the door manually. It seems like when both buttons are pressed within a few seconds of each other, or when I push the console after a manual open/close has been initiated, it'll interrupt the process and lock out operation of both console and pillar buttons for around 30 seconds. From what I understand, this is normal, but it's also frustrating and makes it appear as if there is a malfunction.

Also happens occasionally when passengers try to open the door with the pillar button or manually before I've had a chance to shift into Park. My kids used to do this all the time and it drove me nuts.

Sorry, that probably doesn't help you much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Perhaps there's an issue with either the "shift selector in Park" or "Gas tank filler door open" lockouts on that button. I'd suspect the former since it only happens when the ignition is on.

I've noticed some intermittent quirks with the 30 second (or however long it is) lockout feature on mine. Sometimes when my kid opens the door with the pillar button, he "accidentally" pushes the button twice, which interrupts the open sequence. Also, I'm in the habit of pushing the console button for passengers to exit without first making sure they aren't also about to push the pillar button or open the door manually. It seems like when both buttons are pressed within a few seconds of each other, or when I push the console after a manual open/close has been initiated, it'll interrupt the process and lock out operation of both console and pillar buttons for around 30 seconds. From what I understand, this is normal, but it's also frustrating and makes it appear as if there is a malfunction.

Also happens occasionally when passengers try to open the door with the pillar button or manually before I've had a chance to shift into Park. My kids used to do this all the time and it drove me nuts.

Sorry, that probably doesn't help you much.
It was a very good suggestion. I went out and tried to open the door myself with the ignition on by pressing the pillar button and nothing. I then changed seats and pressed the pillar button on the other door and it worked fine. I just double checked the child lock on the end of the slider and clicked it over just in case, and that isn't the problem either. Thanks for the suggestion though.
 

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Will it work with ignition ON (Run pos) but without starting the engine?
If so, you need to have the charging system tested (it could be introducing noise/interference)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Will it work with ignition ON (Run pos) but without starting the engine?
If so, you need to have the charging system tested (it could be introducing noise/interference)
No, it will not. Just tried.
 

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Then I suggest you find a place with DRBIII (dealer scan tool) or get a multimeter and start going over the wiring diagram,though if the condition is intermittent neither may yield any results.
It wouldn't hurt to start by checking the slider wiring harness in the bottom track (plastic 'chain'- common failure point)..
You can try the old trick of pulling the IOD fuse and waiting 10 minutes before reinstall to see if anything changes, but doubt it will help.
 
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