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2010 T&C 4.0 175k.
Vehicle began to stall several times while cold within the first few miles of travel. Once the engine warmed up, it would run fine for the duration of the day. On occasion the check engine light would come on. AutoZone ran the code and told me it was the EGR.
I replaced the EGR (Aftermarket-RockAuto) as well as the Spark Plugs and Plenum gasket. Old plugs all appeared normal.
After replacement, the engine ran fine. Problem fixed ! ...or so I thought.
3 days later, middle of the day, while making a left turn through an intersection (10mph roll) the engine suddenly died. (loosing power steering midway through a turn will get your attention !!) I threw it into neutral and the engine started back up with no problem or warning lights.
This scenario has now happened 3 times. Strangely, each time while beginning or completing a turn. Once while entering the freeway with a circular on ramp (40mph) and the other while turning through a parking lot (10mph) At the last scenario in the parking lot the Electronic Throttle Control warning light (RED lightning bolt) went on briefly then turned off. When I turned off the car and immediately restarted it, NO warning lights appeared.

I don't think it's any type of electrical short caused by turning the wheel or the weight being shifted.
Prior to stalling the response in the throttle doesn't seem sluggish and RPM's don't seem to drop.

Clueless about the EMCC or TMCC Solenoids ??

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Update: Similar episode occured this morning while driving home from work, after engine running at highway speeds for 30 minutes. while turning into a residential neighborhood the ETC warning light came on, and remained on and the vehicle went into limp mode (limited to 15mph at 1000rpm.) Once the vehicle was safely stopped I turned off the car then restarted it. It came out of limp mode and the ETC light went off. Check engine light came on. Drove straight to AutoZone. Error Code P1128: "Closed Loop fueling not achieved" - Time to do some googling.
 

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Does it take your engine a long time to fully warm up? Or does the temp gauge needle not hold at operating temps once it does fully warm up (e.g., does the temp gauge needle bounce around?)? if so, look at t-stat or CTS as culprits. Or O2 sensor.

But I'd start by checking electrical wires closely. Grounding strap often corrodes. And look closely at wires to/from TIPM and make sure connections are solid and no corrosion or anything there. Electrical gremlins are not uncommon with these Chryco TIPM vehicles.
 
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