The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner

21 - 40 of 71 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
I just hit 100,000 kms (62,000 mi) on my '08 T&C 4.0 and was told by a garage to replace the belt (or chain) but I'm guessing it's too soon. Maybe it's 100,000 miles that it gets replaced?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,446 Posts
Replacement not only goes by mileage, but also age. At 6 years/62,000 miles you should be OK, but I wouldn't go past 7-8 years regardless if the milage is low. I was going to wait till 105,000 miles on my Cirrus to change the belt. The tensioner pully bearing failed and took out the belt. The car had about 87,000 miles but was 11 years old. If it had an intererrence engine like the 4.0, I would have changed it sooner
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Our 4.0 Town & Country is about to hit the 102,000 mile mark where the Owners Manual states to replace the belt. The two dealer quotes I obtained for replacing the belt are $850 and $900. Is everyone else paying or seeing the same? At that cost, the do it yourself option is looking better, but working all weekend in Mississippi heat it may be a toss-up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
I bought the Gates replacement kit thinking I'd get to it. I never did, finally I took it into the dealership before taking a road trip, told them I had the parts and just wanted them installed. Their labor was $220. Parts cost was something like $105 plus shipping. This included the water pump, tensioner, and belt. I did feel like I was getting a steal. I would expect $450-$500 range. $200 for parts and 3 hours (I think it is listed as 2.9 hours) labor at $90/hour.

You can call the parts department and get cost on parts. Then find out what they are estimating on time and what their shop rate is. It shouldn't be much over 3 hours. Call another mechanic he can verify the estimated hours. They are all referencing the same source when estimating jobs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
212 Posts
The tensioner is a part that weakens with age.
Whether it's your accessory belt or your timing belt replacing it is important otherwise the loss of tension will cause premature belt abrasions and slippage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,446 Posts
I bought the Gates replacement kit thinking I'd get to it. I never did, finally I took it into the dealership before taking a road trip, told them I had the parts and just wanted them installed. Their labor was $220. Parts cost was something like $105 plus shipping. This included the water pump, tensioner, and belt. I did feel like I was getting a steal. I would expect $450-$500 range. $200 for parts and 3 hours (I think it is listed as 2.9 hours) labor at $90/hour.

You can call the parts department and get cost on parts. Then find out what they are estimating on time and what their shop rate is. It shouldn't be much over 3 hours. Call another mechanic he can verify the estimated hours. They are all referencing the same source when estimating jobs.
That is a very good price, and I am surprised that a dealership would agree to use your parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
I finished my water pump, timing belt and spark plugs, it took me about 5hrs not rushing and making sure everything was perfect. On the test drive I got a p0305 so I had to remove the plenum and it looked like I hadn't plugged the coil in all the way, I switched the coils around just in case, but it hasnt returned...

The op talked about his pump was about to start leaking around the weep holes by the bolts... the weep hole is around the shaft like conventional pumps (I replaced mine because it was leaking from the weep hole)

heres some pics off the pump showing where it was leaking

I've circled the weep hole here, it's a little hard to see
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
You must have the tools and a lot of experience to get it done in 5 hrs! It took me 12 hrs to complete it. Had to go to advance auto for the puller, then to Home Depot for a M12 -1.75x80mm 10.9 grade bolt to get the harmonic balancer back on.

I had the impact wrench (critical) and the torx bits on hand.

The instructions were perfect to get it done, but I am concerned on torques, e.g. Water pump bolts, engine mount bolts, and plenum bolts. Does anyone have the specs? Thanks!


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
You must have the tools and a lot of experience to get it done in 5 hrs! It took me 12 hrs to complete it. Had to go to advance auto for the puller, then to Home Depot for a M12 -1.75x80mm 10.9 grade bolt to get the harmonic balancer back on.

I had the impact wrench (critical) and the torx bits on hand.

The instructions were perfect to get it done, but I am concerned on torques, e.g. Water pump bolts, engine mount bolts, and plenum bolts. Does anyone have the specs? Thanks!


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
I'm pretty handy... I did a lot of research before tackling this project...
I had all the tools on hand knowing what i needed from this thread, I only have basic hand tools I did buy a 1/2" impact for this project though. I tapped the balancer on with a dead blow hammer until the bolt caught and pulled it on the rest with the bolt
I was concerned with torque also, i couldn't find anything... I just torqued them until i felt comfortable I wasn't going to break them.

But I've been chasing the P0305 code for days now!
I swapped coils around, replaced the plug with another new one and still came back... so today i decided to put the original plugs back in and they work fine. Looks like I'll be running the old plugs until i trade this piece of crap in!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
The op talked about his pump was about to start leaking around the weep holes by the bolts... the weep hole is around the shaft like conventional pumps (I replaced mine because it was leaking from the weep hole)
I assumed that it didn't have a shaft weep hole since the pump is so flat, and the gasket surface on the backside has these cutouts.



I guess it could also leak around the shaft as well. Looks like yours has had a steady stream for a while.

We recently traded our van in for a 2013 Explorer, so this will be my last write up for this site. Good riddance to that van! It had the usual brake issues, hard shifting / shuddering in reverse transmission, was burning lots of oil, which led to catalytic converter issues, and the local dealers (Rocky Top Dodge, Secret City Dodge) wouldn't stand behind the supposed 100k mile powertrain warranty. They really expected me to believe burning 4 quarts of oil between oil changes is normal. Really??

These are the reasons the Chrysler vans are so much cheaper than the Toyota/Honda vans. They are junk piles. Sorry guys, I know it sucks to hear that - but I will never own another Chrysler product. Except maybe a Viper :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,072 Posts
Mopar engines have always been known for their oil burning abilities. Just notice the brand next time you see a car making a smoke show on the road.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
These are the reasons the Chrysler vans are so much cheaper than the Toyota/Honda vans. They are junk piles. Sorry guys, I know it sucks to hear that - but I will never own another Chrysler product. Except maybe a Viper :p
Perceptions are interesting things. I have owned 2 Chrysler vans and really couldn't be happier with them. I owned a Ford Explorer...it gave me so many issues I swore I would never own another. I try to be rational and realize that all makes and models have their issues, but I'm human. Some times all the stars align against you and you end up with a lemon. All the manufacturing tolerances stacked up against you. You won the wrong lottery. However you want to say it. You can read Consumer Reports, you can listen to JD Powers and you could still end up with a vehicle you aren't happy with. I am sure you can find many Toyota/Honda owners that feel the same.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
I've had bad luck out of Honda myself, but sometimes perception is reality. I've done research on all the vans, and the mopar vans seem to have more trouble points than the others. Honda has brake and transmission issues, toyota has brake issues as well.

Our 2010 van was a 1 owner van when we bought it (not a former rental like our 2008 was) and I thought it would do better than it did. I've got a 160k, 19 year old F150 with a bad rear main seal that burns AND leaks less oil than that 2010 did. Ridiculous.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,773 Posts
We recently traded our van in for a 2013 Explorer, so this will be my last write up for this site. Good riddance to that van! It had the usual brake issues, hard shifting / shuddering in reverse transmission, was burning lots of oil, which led to catalytic converter issues, and the local dealers (Rocky Top Dodge, Secret City Dodge) wouldn't stand behind the supposed 100k mile powertrain warranty. They really expected me to believe burning 4 quarts of oil between oil changes is normal. Really??

These are the reasons the Chrysler vans are so much cheaper than the Toyota/Honda vans. They are junk piles. Sorry guys, I know it sucks to hear that - but I will never own another Chrysler product. Except maybe a Viper :p
Sorry to see you go.
I married into a Chrysler family 25 years ago (grew up in a GM family). I have to say the extended family and especially me personally have had VERY good service out of our Chrysler cars/trucks/Vans/Minivans over the years. All the cars the immediate family bought that I have maintained have gone over 100K with little trouble at all.
My 94 still does not leave any oil spots on the driveway and I can still go 2k before I have to add any oil.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,773 Posts
Mopar engines have always been known for their oil burning abilities. Just notice the brand next time you see a car making a smoke show on the road.
I'm not saying this JUST because you own one similar BUT around here its the first gen 4.6L OHC Ford rear drive cars that make the most exhaust smoke when they are leaving a traffic light. :eekkkk:
When I was in the shop we did EGR passage clean out on those regularly because of the carbon buildup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
I just wanted to thank the OP for the guide again. I tackled this project this weekend, and good thing it was a long weekend because I ended up doing it twice lol. First time around when I put the belt in, I got the timing marks lined up, but did not have enough tension on the front bank cam gear. It ran, had a slightly rough idle, and of course it threw the good ol' P0300 code. To update this thread, I wanted to link a couple of youtube videos that really helped me understand the process of getting the timing belt on tight before releasing the tensioner.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3O2Z0Kqaoo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sjw3MFjKkzY

This is a doable job for the driveway as long as you have an impact gun to get the crank bolt off, the specialized harmonic balancer puller, and torque wrenches (both in/lb and ft/lb). The spec on the water pump bolts is 105 inch pounds, I took this part seriously after reading OP snapped off a bolt in the block. I also like to torque my spark plugs and intake plenum bolts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
^Forgot to mention that I used the Gates timing belt kit and did not have any issues with any of the parts. OP had some trouble with the tensioner pulley bolt in the Dayco kit, the Gates kit was perfect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Timing belt

Excellent details! The old timing belt looks brand new to me and I can not tell the different in the picture with them side by side. I'm wondering if the original belt would have lasted another 100,000 miles...
 
21 - 40 of 71 Posts
About this Discussion
70 Replies
32 Participants
smittyroc
The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums
ChryslerMinivan.net is the best forum for Chrysler Town and Country owners to discuss mileage, price, problems, towing and more. Join now!
Full Forum Listing
Top