Newbie here, but longtime Chrysler minivan user and owner. Purchased a new 2011 in October. Grand Caravan with full power. My question/problem is about the doors.
The driver's side power sliding door started making noise in December or January. Maybe it always did, but that's when we noticed it. It even seemed slow or straining at times to close the door.
We tried to get into the dealer in Feb/March, but didn't until May. Dealer said it was fine. I couldn't believe it, so I went out and checked it again.
The door is considerably slower than the passenger side one. Also, it looks like it is out of alignment...perhaps sticking out too much from the body. Not flush, like the other side. I also hear some wind noise at highway speed.
So I bring this up to the service "manager" who says it's not their policy to fix something until it's broken. He defines broken as either a CODE or part failure. Neither one has happened thus far. But, the motor is clearly straining and sounding like it's grinding or groaning compared to the passenger side.
So, questions...
Is the door supposed to be flush with the body? I say yes, with some tolerance for minor differences. Mine appears to be 2 mm or more.
Should both doors open/close at about the same speed?
Has anyone else had this experience?
Thanks in advance. I hope to be able to reciprocate to you all.
Turns out they took a second look after my persistence. They adjusted the door making it much more flush. An engineer that I know from molar said to clock the speed of the doors in both directions.....I did and they wer just about the same on average. Faster when the car is running...for some reason. Voltage?
The driver door was still making a bit of a groaning noise though, but it is not the motor. I was able totracenit to the upper track for the door hinge roller mechanism. Dealer said it was lubed by them. I found it to be dry. Tried wd40 and nothing. Cleaned it odd and added some grease to the track and the roller bearing. Now it is pretty quiet. Much, much better. The factory really ought to grease those tracks.
Love the van. Power, fuel efficiency, lots of comfort and versatility......interior is a major upgrade on the 2011.
Grease on the tracks will attract dirt and dust, causing more wear. If you want to lube it, make sure it is some sort of a dry lube like a graphite spray or something that dries and isn't sticky.
BOTH of them, drivers side door, when open and commanded to close by FOBIK- "stuck". Clicking as if trying to close, but not letting go of the rear latch. It tries three times then fails.
Both time I had to manual pull forward. Neither failure has been repeated in either van.
We ALWAYS use either pillar button or FOBIK, none of us EVER use manual to open or close.
My 2011 T & C has same sounds, only sporadically. Clicking sound like door is trying to close but is not being released. We pul it just to start it thenit goes the rest of the way automatcally. Asked dealer about it, they said it appeared to be working fine. Of course it did when they inspected it. Happens maybe 1 in a 100 closings. seems like driver side moreso than pas. makes you go hummmm
There is only one TSB associated with the power sliding doors, see below:
08-045-11
SUBJECT:
Power Sliding Door Intermittently Will Not Close
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves inspecting the power sliding door module left and right (PSDML and PSDMR) “Full Open Counts” and recalibrating the power sliding door if necessary.
MODELS:
2011 (RT) Grand Caravan / Town & Country
NOTE: This bulletin applies vehicles equipped with Power Sliding Doors (sales code JRA and JRB) built prior to May 16, 2011 (MDH 0516XX).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The Power Sliding Door intermittently will not close with a clicking sound at, or near, the full closed position
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
Perform the Power Sliding Door Learn Cycle for each Power Sliding Door.
It is Depending on the model year, there are software updates available for the
door controllers to improve door timing.Minor adjustments can be made to
improve their operation as well.All is covered by your factory warranty.
Battery voltage does play a role in this as the vehicle is power everything, we take for granted that opening/closing the doors and the auto lights feature without the altinator recharging the system drains the batt.
This is why we need to R2 the batteries every 2 years or so. Id shoot for a 4 year waranty batt so when and not if it dies you can just change it out.
And as far as lube for the tracks Only use dry lubes, you do not need dirt sticking and prematurly wearing out the slides.
To the OP- did the fairing of the door reduce the road noise considerably?
We noticed the night we brought our new 2011 T&C home that the upper left hand corner of the slider was sticking out almost 1/4" from the body. Long story short; after 6 visit's, 2 new hinges and much aggrevation, The door is almost flush. Is it perfect, no. we will be back at the dealer soon for the rattling in the overhead unit. We have tissues shoved everywhere to stop the noice.
These issues are nothing compared to the problems we are having with our 2010 Honda Odyssey.
I'm from a cold climate in Muskoka Ontario. We get long, cold and very snowy winters. Has anyone experienced any issues with these power sliders acting up in winter weather - ie. sticking, inop or otherwise troublesome??