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2012 Chrysler T&C lower oil pan bolt torque

195 Views 12 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Brimc66
Hi Everyone,
Thanks for the ad. I am replacing the lower engine oil pan on my 2012 T&C using the three bond rtv. I need the lower engine oil pan bolt torque specs and is there any special procedure for using the three bond ?
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What are the application instructions for ThreeBond RTV? 1184?

Yes, and bolt torque specs.
The only 3.6 lower bolt specs that I can find are for the jeep 3.6l but it is a different oil pan.
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What are the application instructions for ThreeBond RTV? 1184?

That was the MSDS not application instructions.
I am looking for how large of a bead to put, are there multiple torque stages?
The universal torque spec should do something. Tighten until the bolt strips out then back off one half a turn
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The correct answer for this engine is 12 NM torque and the application guide for the RTV is a 2 to 3 millimeter wide bead of RTV around the perimeter of the sealing lip or flange with the bead running on the inside lip of the bolt holes. Working time is 20 minutes and let the RTV cure a minimum of 45 minutes before adding oil.

I guess Model A just felt the need to post something.
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The correct answer for this engine is 12 NM torque and the application guide for the RTV is a 2 to 3 millimeter wide bead of RTV around the perimeter of the sealing lip or flange with the bead running on the inside lip of the bolt holes. Working time is 20 minutes and let the RTV cure a minimum of 45 minutes before adding oil.

I guess Model A just felt the need to post something.
Interesting. Normally instructions are to go around bolt holes but ..... I guess ..... it's sort of okay, considering. I think covering the mating surfaces is better though. Think dirt and rust in the empty spaces.
5. Apply a continuous and even bead of silicone to one surface, first tracing the internal areas of the gasket configuration, then all surrounding bolt holes .....
Model A has given this advice before. Works for him, maybe not so helpful for others. :cautious:
As a general rule if the pan bolt holes are not through holes I do not encircle the bolt hole with sealant.
As a general rule if the pan bolt holes are not through holes I do not encircle the bolt hole with sealant.
That's why gaskets are better, full coverage of mating surfaces and no sealant plugging the bolt holes. :)
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That's why gaskets are better, full coverage of mating surfaces and no sealant plugging the bolt holes. :)
I was going back and forth about using a gasket instead but decided to go with RTV as that is what came out of the factory. The two factors that drove me away from a gasket were;
Adding a gasket changed the dynamics with torque settings and none of the gasket manufacturers supply torque specs for using their gaskets.
Also reported issues with gaskets splitting and oil pan bolts working their way out when using a gasket due to improper torque.
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I was going back and forth about using a gasket instead but decided to go with RTV as that is what came out of the factory. The two factors that drove me away from a gasket were;
Adding a gasket changed the dynamics with torque settings and none of the gasket manufacturers supply torque specs for using their gaskets.
Also reported issues with gaskets splitting and oil pan bolts working their way out when using a gasket due to improper torque.
The torque for the transmission pan bolts is 105 inch-lbs (12 Nm), according to Haynes and others. People are using that successfully for regular gaskets, including Fel-Pro.

Haynes says 97 inch-lb (11 Nm) for the lower oil pan. That would work for a regular gasket as well.

It should depend on bolt size. M6x1.00x14 (transmission) vs M6x1.00x25 (oil pan). So 105 inch-lbs (12 Nm) should be fine for both situations, gaskets or RTV, depending on what the specific instructions are for the RTV.
I figure there has been no issue for 9 years with the RTV, I am going to stick with it. I will be doing the pan tomorrow and hopefully this will be the last time I have to crawl under the van for a while.
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