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For a few days after Thanksgiving my van would be dead in the morning so I'd have to use my jump stater and charge the battery on the trickle charger overnight. After a few days of going this it was fine. A week ago, Super Bowl Sunday it started again. Was dead Sunday morning, charged it overnight. Every other day I have to jump start it and carry a portable jumper with me at all times.

In August I was in a car accident, got a new passenger side from the front passenger door to the back bumper. I did have an issue with the blind spot detection not working properly prior to the accident. The orange triangle lights on both side mirrors stay lit up the entire time the vehicle is on.

This morning I had the battery, alternator and starter tested and all were good. Any ideas what could be going on?
 

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If the battery and alternator are testing fine then it means there is some circuit that is not going to sleep properly during the shut down process.

There isn’t really any shortcut to figuring it out. You basically have to shut down the vehicle and hook an ammeter in series with the battery to see what it finally levels out at. Then, begin pulling fuses until you see which circuit is drawing power from the battery that shouldn’t be. If you’re not comfortable doing that, then you’ll have to pay a mechanic to do it.


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Discussion Starter #4
If the battery and alternator are testing fine then it means there is some circuit that is not going to sleep properly during the shut down process.

There isn’t really any shortcut to figuring it out. You basically have to shut down the vehicle and hook an ammeter in series with the battery to see what it finally levels out at. Then, begin pulling fuses until you see which circuit is drawing power from the battery that shouldn’t be. If you’re not comfortable doing that, then you’ll have to pay a mechanic to do it.


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I'm familiar with checking the circuits. 2 years ago the alternator fan seized up but ex couldn't figure out what the issue was so I got a new battery and helped check each fuse.
 

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Alternator might test ok but actually have a AC leak. AC leaks only occur when engine is running, but a side effect would be a battery discharging while engine is not running.

If you are doing the above suggested test, I would suggest to start checking the alternator itself while you are there.
Once you have your ammeter hooked up, instead of start removing fuses, disconnect the alternator and see if current changes, if ok, then proceed to check fuse by fuse.
 

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You might have a tricky battery. Is it the original one?

You could buy/install a battery disconnect switch, to glean more information as to what is going on with the battery.

The blind side detectors seem a likely circuit to isolate, sounding like a short to ground somewhere.
 

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I had a similar experience with my last (gen 4) t&c
Turned out the battery had a bad cell. Everything tested fine as long as the battery was charged, but it a wouldn't start in the AM.
This happened with a couple of batteries.
Turned out the solution was to stop using Advanced Auto batteries

=Dave=
08 T&C Limited
 

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It's hard for us to help when we don't know the status/condition of the battery and vehicle .. a lot of unknowns here.
A 7 yr old van that was wiped out on one side and fix by who knows who.
If you know how to use it, a volt/amp/ohm meter will answer a lot of questions.
Good luck
 

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It just might be your battery, even though it tested fine... Long story...

Had this same problem over a 5 month stretch from August through December. Vehicle wouldn't start, but ran perfectly after a jump start. Then, dead again the next morning. Hooked a charger up to it and gave it a full charge, then was good for almost a month, and all of a sudden, started the same problem again. It was hit and miss for a while, sometimes could start in the morning, sometimes I could not. Eventually it got worse, where I could start it, drive for an hour or so to charge it, go into a store for a half hour, and come back out and it wouldn't start. During times it wouldn't start, I'd get a clicking noise from the area where the "key" goes into the dash, and I'd occasionally see "No Fuse" or something like that show on the instrument panel.

I did the parasitic draw testing in early September, and it seemed like something was drawing while the van was off. I later found out that you can't run the test right away, you need wait for about 20 minutes after you have turned the vehicle off and have closed the last door, as all the computer systems need to go to "sleep". Once I got to run the test, I never found a thing, no draw outside of the norm. Had everything (battery, alt, etc.) tested and it all came back perfect.

For a 3-week stretch between the end of November and mid December we never had a problem with starting at all, worked like a charm. It could sit for a couple days and would still start fine. The final straw was when we had taken a 2-hour road trip, stopped off at a store for some shopping and came out 45-minutes later and it wouldn't start. Got a jump start and headed out to get the battery replaced. That was 2 months ago now and haven't had a single problem since.
 

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FeMaster, that set of symptoms sounds EXACTLY like what happening to me on my Gen 4. Battery tested fine as long as it was charged. Left overnight, and wouldn't start in the AM. Then began not starting in the daytime. Battery kept testing fine. I stopped using Advanced Auto Parts batteries and my problems vanished.

=Dave=
 

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They were Advanced labeled is all I know.
I bought one, it failed, they semi warranteed it, that one failed, we did it again, then I gave up. 3 strikes and yerrrrr out!
Their best guess was a bad cell.

=Dave=
 
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