bump

 

ok so I went to the dealer and got the van scanned again. says there are not active codes. just stored codes
B11CD-00: main/left Door 1 travel range too Large
B105D-00: reticulation Door travel range too Large
B103F-00: Rear main Door travel range too Large
B11CA-00Right Temperature Door travel range too Large
B11C4-00 Front mode Door 1 travel range too Large

B210A-84: System Voltage-signal Below Allowable Range
U0164: Lost communication with HVAC control Module
I had the battery disconnected for 3ish HR while i was under the dash

Once the van does it calibrations the AC will start working. and every mode seems to work.
has anyone had this issue? is it a sign of a dying HVAC Computer?

 

Are any of the doors physically jammed or broken? The servo motor may be fine but a broken flap can jam it up.

 

it I don't think so. I can change the modes just fine and that part works as expected. no grinding or clicking noises. without removing the dash and the boxes i cannot say 100% other than putting it in each mode and it does what it is supposed to do.

 

I doubt it's all the motors all failing. Perhaps a loose connector somewhere to the hvac controller, or a loose ground wire. You confirmed the actuators work and at least the one door notorious for breaking is in good shape.

I don't have the FSM to see what it might recommend, or e.g. connector pinout. My money is on loose connector.

 

do you know where the factor HVAC module is located?

I have read some other stuff that suggest the TIPM could be dying, best way to test that? ?

 

what are the common TIPM failures? 3 times today the after the AC started working i would come up to a traffic light and the blower motor and engine RPM dropped and there was a slight shutter then came right back.

the ETC light kicked on too after a long highway down hill drive, no check engine light or active code. stored code U0141: Lost communication with IPM (FCM/TIPM)

something is going on but I dont have any active code.

 

here are all codes that were pulled by the dealer.

 

Re: the squib, you may find this blog post useful:

What Is a Driver Squib, and Why Replace it?

How we had to replace our clock spring to clear squib circuit fault codes and why air bag U codes for lost communication with radio cannot be cleared in some Dodge Ram pickups.

liveworkdream.com

 

Thank you. I have tried a different sensor for the front impact, no luck. other post suggest i have a broken harness in the door i have been looking for as part of tracing down all the issues

yikes, that clock spring is $200+

 

ok so i have tried installing 3 new blend door actuators, and I cannot get them to take and I don't know why.... this is frustrating.
I have AflaOBD and ran the test. I can do back to back test and will get the same actuator to pass and fail. I opened it up, cleaned it and regreased it with a good grease to see if that would fix it. no suck luck

installed a one on the recirc door, same error. door is not jammed and move freely by hand.

the door responds as requested too

drivers temp door

i find this interesting. the screen flashes this but still returns data

any ideas or suggestions ?

 

so last night i got everything passing and it was passing this morning after opening them and cleaning and regreasing. then this afternoon recirculation fails.

the rear mode door is keyed what should the default position be for keying and indexing? I got 2 more from the local parts store (not Mopar) and they both fail calibration

 

as far as I know, the doors have no position sensor, the control module senses when the motor stalls to know it has hit the stops, by measuring the amount of current flowing to it. The calibration just sweeps between the two stops, and makes sure the motor hits a stop within the prescribed time frame. This is why a broken/damaged door will fail, because the motor itself has no phase/position sensor...without a door that mechanically moves correctly, it has no way of knowing when it's in the open or closed position.

There's no way all of these actuators are faulty. You may need a new HVAC control module, and/or maybe there's some sort of firmware update to resolve this problem. Also, you shouldn't have to grease the doors, they're very slippery plastic. There was no grease on any of mine when I replaced the broken doors. I imagine that might attract dirt, depending on what you use, etc. If you use any, keep it minimal and nothing volatile/fumy.

If it's a new issue, perhaps you have a bad/loose ground or power wire going to the module; as a result the motors don't get enough power and move too slowly.

 

my guess was it goes till it see a current spike, then it does pulses to get to the end where it expects to see a spike. I wouldn't think the actuators would all be fault either, I also got 2 more of different brands from the local store all failed. So something else has to be going on, no way 5 new units can be bad out the box (doorman, fourseasons, murry). So either the controller (knob panel) or the maybe the TIPM. If the controller is losing all power from the TIPM when the key is off then maybe it is waking up the same way leaving the battery plugged. Grasping at straws at this point.

I opened the actuators and greased the gears inside, not the hinges. I would use a PTFE lube for that, which is a slippery plastic spray. I use it on my 3d printer so it doesn't attract dirt.

I pulled the HVAC module (control knobs), took it apart and cleaned the PCB with rubbing alcohol, there was some sort of residue on it. Not sure what it was or if it was the issue. I also added solder to the the connector pins to the PCB since the factory was a press fit.

 

updated.
I tried 5 different actuators over the weekend, 3 different brands (non OEM) they all failed calibration. I found a guy on facebook market place scrapping out a van and got 4 of them for $50. they all calibrated to the computer. 1 was broken and clicked but still passes, the internal plastic shaft holding a gear broke. trying to see if he will swap it out, if not ill try some epoxy. one seemed noisier than the other as if it going out.

I'm letting it sit overnight to see if it holds calibration

so as others have said use OEM ones, still odd that the non OEM ones will not calibrate to the computer

 

Well this morning the calibration kept and the AC worked as soon as I started the van. Also did a few stop on my way to work and no issues. Guess the moral of the story is used the OEM actuators as a lot of people have said

I also enabled remote start too with new Fobs as a 2nd work around