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Too much fluid can cause turbulence in the system, which acts the same way as cavitation, but does so because the fluid cannot flow properly due to excess fluid.

The causes the pump to either "starve" for fluid or to draw excess fluid. The excess fluid drawn overloads "stresses" the pump and causes it to whine much like cavitation.
Not sure how it makes sense in your head, but it is a bunch of jibberish.

Too much oil causes the oil to hit the rotating components, like gears, which in turn will introduce a lot of tiny bubbles, which in turn will cause pump cavitation. It’s that simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Took out converter bolts. Pushed TC in and inspected flex plate as much as possible. No cracks or anything. And in most cases I’m hearing the plates “clunk” when they crack or break. Doesn’t match my sound. Scratching my head on this one. I don’t know what else to check.
 

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Not sure how it makes sense in your head, but it is a bunch of jibberish.

Too much oil causes the oil to hit the rotating components, like gears, which in turn will introduce a lot of tiny bubbles, which in turn will cause pump cavitation. It’s that simple.
So now you're admitting too much oil can cause issues....... Interesting...
 

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Too much fluid can cause turbulence in the system, which acts the same way as cavitation, but does so because the fluid cannot flow properly due to excess fluid.

The causes the pump to either "starve" for fluid or to draw excess fluid. The excess fluid drawn overloads "stresses" the pump and causes it to whine much like cavitation.
That sounds like a bunch of hoodoo to me too. The pump is drawing from the reservoir, not being fed fluid under load, so over fill should have no influence on flow. Starvation can occur if too low, in turns, or pump is spinning too fast, but not in this situation.
 

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The noise sounds a lot like two things are touching. Seems that something spinning is touching something else. It might be a good idea to check the starter gear for damage or wear. I’ve seen some videos of people who had a shim on their starter. My 08 van didn’t have one.

Remove the starter and inspect it. If you can see excessive wear on the starter gear then that basically proves what’s going on.

Does the noise occur in neutral as well?

Besides this, I’m thinking that maybe the transmission wasn’t mounted properly. There could be contact being made somewhere it shouldn’t be.
 

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Too much oil causes the oil to hit the rotating components, like gears, which in turn will introduce a lot of tiny bubbles, which in turn will cause pump cavitation. It’s that simple.
The pool of oil is nowhere near any rotating components outside of the pump that is actually drawing in the liquid to pump it. The pump itself is a turning gear- but it turns at given speeds which itself determines the volume of flow.. The pump pulls in the same volume of oil no matter what the tank holds. Like saying your water pump, aquarium or pool pump will fail if there is too much water in it. Does your boat motor fail if there is too much water in the lake?

Overfilling might make the pan seals leak, if they are prone to do so- or expansion might make it come out of the dipstick tube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
The noise sounds a lot like two things are touching. Seems that something spinning is touching something else. It might be a good idea to check the starter gear for damage or wear. I’ve seen some videos of people who had a shim on their starter. My 08 van didn’t have one.

Remove the starter and inspect it. If you can see excessive wear on the starter gear then that basically proves what’s going on.

Does the noise occur in neutral as well?

Besides this, I’m thinking that maybe the transmission wasn’t mounted properly. There could be contact being made somewhere it shouldn’t be.
Yeah I was trying to avoid taking the transmission back out but I may not have a choice. I looked at the starter gear earlier and nothing seemed “shiny” like it was staying engaged. I wish there was a way to run the engine without the starter to verify lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
The noise sounds a lot like two things are touching. Seems that something spinning is touching something else. It might be a good idea to check the starter gear for damage or wear. I’ve seen some videos of people who had a shim on their starter. My 08 van didn’t have one.

Remove the starter and inspect it. If you can see excessive wear on the starter gear then that basically proves what’s going on.

Does the noise occur in neutral as well?

Besides this, I’m thinking that maybe the transmission wasn’t mounted properly. There could be contact being made somewhere it shouldn’t be.
And yes all gears. Even neutral.
 

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The pool of oil is nowhere near any rotating components outside of the pump that is actually drawing in the liquid to pump it. The pump itself is a turning gear- but it turns at given speeds which itself determines the volume of flow.. The pump pulls in the same volume of oil no matter what the tank holds. Like saying your water pump, aquarium or pool pump will fail if there is too much water in it. Does your boat motor fail if there is too much water in the lake?

Overfilling might make the pan seals leak, if they are prone to do so- or expansion might make it come out of the dipstick tube.
GCTruckster is exactly right. The primary danger from overfilling is submerging rotating parts in the oil and aerating it. This is the same problem with overfilling an engine — the crankshaft dipping into the oil aerates it. In the case of an overfilled transmission, the air causes lots of problems — pump noise, shifting problems, clutch problems, etc. The whole system depends on fluid without air in it.
 

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And yes all gears. Even neutral.
It sounds like rubbing metal, but it’s hard to judge from the video. Did you check the bell housing bolts that they are torqued? Maybe give it a visual inspection. This almost sounds like perhaps the transmission shifted slightly in the bell housing and is not aligned properly now, maybe it happened after your initial test drive.
Maybe put a lift jack under it and put a bit of pressure on it to see if there is any movement or if the noise changes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Does it sound like this in person?
Just my 2-cents.
No it’s not a pump noise. It’s definitely metal on metal sounding. I dropped the transmission today. Again. Flexplate looked okay, I thought for sure I would see it rubbing against something or cracked but it looks fine. They aren’t pricey so I may just buy a new flexplate and bolts anyways just for peace of mind. Visually I see nothing wrong. Torque converter is seated all the way. Not making noise. No marks on input shaft or anything. I checked that. So I’ll do flex plate and if it doesn’t solve my problem then I’ll let dodge take a look maybe. It’s also possible it’s not related to my install and it just started but I feel like that’s highly unlikely.
 

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GCTruckster is exactly right. The primary danger from overfilling is submerging rotating parts in the oil and aerating it. This is the same problem with overfilling an engine — the crankshaft dipping into the oil aerates it. In the case of an overfilled transmission, the air causes lots of problems — pump noise, shifting problems, clutch problems, etc. The whole system depends on fluid without air in it.
Drop the dogmatic thinking, and examine the oil pan design of the transmission.

There are NO MOVING MECHANICAL PARTS INSIDE THE TRANNY OIL PAN.

There is nothing to agitate the oil inside the pan. The oil is sucked remotely into the transmission through the little hole in the filter. The amount of oil in the pan is irrelevant to the pump.
 

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There are NO MOVING MECHANICAL PARTS INSIDE THE TRANNY OIL PAN.

There is nothing to agitate the oil inside the pan. The oil is sucked remotely into the transmission through the little hole in the filter. The amount of oil in the pan is irrelevant to the pump.
There is at least one rotating parts that the fluid could reach if overfilled:
Hood Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Motor vehicle
 

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There is at least one rotating parts that the fluid could reach if overfilled:
Exactly, plus the fluid is not stationary and level in there, it expands with temperature, sloshes around when accelerating, braking or turning. That is why the level is important and should not exceed low or high limits.
 

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Your trans appears to be overfilled based on the chart included with the 'universal' dipstick I bought and 62te charts found on various websites. Max fluid level with trans at 200F is 53mm (at idle - trans in park/neutral). I have found that my trans rarely gets to 180F (maybe 170F on a hot day) which has a max of 48mm. I would suggest 40mm when warmed-up as that would cover trans temps from 150F (max level) to 200F (min level).
Hello Goose, Maverick here, where did you get that Universal dip stick? That's one idiotic thing Chrysler messed up on, not including it.
 
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