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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Dorman now has a 6 speed pan with a drain plug. Not sure how long its been out but this is the first I have seen/heard of it.
On my other vehicles I have welded a nut to the inside (in a better location than the 4 spd pan Dorman offers) to make my own drainable pans.
This 6 spd pan has the drain plug tucked up in the back so it won't get bottomed out.
For $32 on Ebay I might just buy this one and not have to monkey with it?
http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemdetail.aspx?ProductID=78993&SEName=265-833
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281941718984?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 

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I've seen that pan on the Dorman website, but that pan covered up to model year 2014.

I'm guessing the 2015 is probably the same part number.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Most likely would be the same.
Mines a 13 so I'm good. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If well be a month or so before I dig into this.

I will get photos.
 

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Damn, I wish I knew about this a month ago when I had the transmission serviced.
I hear that! I had a local shop do a pan drop and filter change on my 2013 4-5 months ago.

I wouldn't even sweat the "level check" so much with this aftermarket drain plug pan. Just drain it cold and replace the amount you took out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here's another option to drill a hole and install the dorman drain plug
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQ9yfGI1hhU

here is the part number from Dorman.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-24513-65128.aspx?origin=keyword
I used that style drain plug kit ONCE. It loosened up when I tried to drain the fluid the very first time plus the large nut on the inside limits where you can install it since it takes up so much space.
I removed it and welded a nut to the inside of the pan, I've been doing it that way ever since.
 

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Here's another option to drill a hole and install the dorman drain plug
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQ9yfGI1hhU

here is the part number from Dorman.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-24513-65128.aspx?origin=keyword
If you still have to remove the oil pan, you are better of installing a new pan with plug.

I used that style drain plug kit ONCE. It loosened up when I tried to drain the fluid the very first time plus the large nut on the inside limits where you can install it since it takes up so much space.
I removed it and welded a nut to the inside of the pan, I've been doing it that way ever since.
If I would weld a nut to the oil pan I would weld it to the outside, that way you will drain more oil + sediments otherwise would not drain out.
 

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I've seen that pan on the Dorman website, but that pan covered up to model year 2014.

I'm guessing the 2015 is probably the same part number.
I emailed Dorman tech support and a gentleman named Jim Squiccimara replied that it indeed does cover up to and including the 2016.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If you still have to remove the oil pan, you are better of installing a new pan with plug.



If I would weld a nut to the oil pan I would weld it to the outside, that way you will drain more oil + sediments otherwise would not drain out.
Welding it to the outside is truly a better location but its more work.
You would have to be sure and fully seal the nut to the pan with weld or you’d have a leak. This extra welding will require more heat that can warp the pan and cause much more paint to be burned off then the 3 small tack welds I used to hold nuts to the inside.
Besides the amount of sediment left in the pan having an internal retainer hasn’t been an issue with factory steel oil pans, which for the most part have their retaining plates (nuts) on the inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Since the winter weather around here has been anything but wintery, I’ve been working in the garage much more than usual lately.
I did the trans fluid and new pan on my van last week at 77K
Before I started, I checked the factory level using the engine oil dipstick. I bottomed the stick into the trans and read 1.5” up the stick with the trans fully warm after a 20 mile ride home from work.
Getting the pan off wasn’t a problem. After removing the bolts, the pan dropped right off the silicone which was a nice surprise. Very little silicone was stuck to the case as well.
I took pictures of how I got the filter seal out. A few taps with a hammer and the seal folds in, rolling it out with a pry dropped it right out.
Only a few tiny shiny flakes on the pan magnet and just a little black fuzz too. The fluid had a purple tint to it but smelled fine. I dropped the front of the van off the jack stands and lifted the back up to get the fluid to drain out of the case more. With the back of the van back on the ground and the front jacked back up again the fluid stopped dripping long enough for me to wipe the sealing surfaces down and get the pan on without getting the wet silicone contaminated.
It took 5.5 quarts to get the fluid level right.
Also in the pictures you can see the metal bracket that the dipstick bottoms out on.






This is the chart, Its not my pic but it was helpful.
 
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