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3rd Gen Plebeian
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I'm going to list the possible causes of "cranks but doesn't start, intermittent"-
Ignition coil
Crankshaft position sensor
Camshaft position sensor
Fuel pump
ASD Relay
Flex plate
Cam sprocket(reluctor/tone wheel inside your distributor)
PCM.
Fuel injection(PCM)Relay
Ignition Relay
Fuel pump relay.
Associated wiring for above items.

I can't think of anything else.
All the other sensors don't matter for starting, they aren't used until the engine fires and reaches idle speed.
If it ain't on that list, the mechanic doesn't know what there doing and theyre just throwing your money at the problem.


You have seen a Cam sensor code, you said so in the original post. The PCM doesn't throw that code for no reason, it means that something is wrong with the Cam Sensor and that sensor is 100% required for the engine to start. The cam sensor is a device that is prone to intermittent failure.

Another important thing to remember is that replacement parts, even brand new in the box, are more likely to be bad than a piece of factory hardware on the van. They were made in China or Mexico, and are never the quality of the the original factory part. Don't ever trust a piece of hardware you replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Yes I always check the map sensor also never get a code for that. Now my crank sensor would stall set a code (6 times) and cut off or on when
I wiggled the wires or just not start all night. I picked up the van last night from a shop (there for a week) and it didn't make it home. After cooling off for 30min.
I made it back to work. Left it there. Found a cam sensor code today. Put in another (3d) distributor and it drove me home tonight.
 

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3rd Gen Plebeian
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Is it fixed?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
After installing the 3d distributor, yesterday, I drove it home (via) the grocery store. Then I drove it to the VA clinic and then on to work, today.
Then drove me home tonight. That's 2 days now.
I'm afraid to finish the details under the hood. This distributor I ordered from Rock auto. The other I bought at O'Reillys. Right now I'll say it's running for 2 days.
I'm leary to call it fixed.
I'll keep in touch one way or the other. My boss and I are going to his mechanic tomorrow as he sent my pcm via driver to the comp store. they checked it out
and sent it back to my address, but the mechanic already installed one in the van??? We're going to get it and the bill straightened out.. If we make it?
 

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After installing the 3d distributor, yesterday, I drove it home (via) the grocery store. Then I drove it to the VA clinic and then on to work, today.
Then drove me home tonight. That's 2 days now.
I'm afraid to finish the details under the hood. This distributor I ordered from Rock auto. The other I bought at O'Reillys. Right now I'll say it's running for 2 days.
I'm leary to call it fixed.
I'll keep in touch one way or the other. My boss and I are going to his mechanic tomorrow as he sent my pcm via driver to the comp store. they checked it out
and sent it back to my address, but the mechanic already installed one in the van??? We're going to get it and the bill straightened out.. If we make it?
after replacing map and cam sensor fuel pump was fix for mine. glad i didn't pull the cat
 

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Discussion Starter #26
It's been over a week and the 3d cam sensor is still working great,
I don't understand why the second one only lasted ? and didn't set codes only 1 day?
 

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3rd Gen Plebeian
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Excellent, congrats!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Well it was working perfect for a week . The past couple of days,it has after warmed up and sit for 15 minutes or so (heat soak).
It starts but runs like 4-5 cylinders and gradually smooths out. no codes.. It did this a few times before all this started.
 

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Head gasket starting to go? That's what one of my Supras did for years, until it finally let go one hot July day and kept leaking coolant into a cylinder (even with the radiator cap off). The coolant would slowly leak into the cylinder when parked hot, then miss a bit on restart until it burned off and would run perfect.
 

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3rd Gen Plebeian
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Head gasket starting to go? That's what one of my Supras did for years, until it finally let go one hot July day and kept leaking coolant into a cylinder (even with the radiator cap off). The coolant would slowly leak into the cylinder when parked hot, then miss a bit on restart until it burned off and would run perfect.
IDK, my Celica had a blown head gasket, and it would vomit up all the coolant. Cylinder pressure is several thousand psi.

Disconnect the battery and let the van sit for 60 seconds, then reconnect. This will clear out the PCM tuning to the factory fuel map. See if that improves the idle.

What are the ambient temperatures when you're starting the van? I hear its freezing at some latitudes already but the low is still ~70°F in the south.
 

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--UNKNOWN MEMBER--
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IDK, my Celica had a blown head gasket, and it would vomit up all the coolant. Cylinder pressure is several thousand psi.

Disconnect the battery and let the van sit for 60 seconds, then reconnect. This will clear out the PCM tuning to the factory fuel map.
Small head gasket leak might not cause coolant to rush out of the radiator neck, even without radiator cap.

60 seconds might not be enough, unless you touch both battery cables together. If you touch battery cables together, then you dont need to wait at all
 

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If you touch battery cables together, DO IT AWAY FROM THE BATTERY!!! I'm tired of seeing this dangerous suggestion all the time! Batteries give off hydrogen, and touching the terminals at the battery can cause a small static spark, which can cause hydrogen to ignite, and the battery to blow up in your face. It nearly happened to me once (spark near the battery) and there was a fireball right before my eyes! Luckily the battery didn't explode, but what a safety wake-up call.

Instead, disconnect the ground terminal. Connect a jumper cable to the positive terminal still on the battery, and the other end of the same jumper cable can be touched to the disconnected negative terminal/cable - away from the battery (or simply touch the metal engine). If there is a spark, it is now away from any hydrogen cloud that might be over the battery.
 

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If you touch battery cables together, DO IT AWAY FROM THE BATTERY!!! I'm tired of seeing this dangerous suggestion all the time! Batteries give off hydrogen, and touching the terminals at the battery can cause a small static spark, which can cause hydrogen to ignite, and the battery to blow up in your face. It nearly happened to me once (spark near the battery) and there was a fireball right before my eyes! Luckily the battery didn't explode, but what a safety wake-up call.

Instead, disconnect the ground terminal. Connect a jumper cable to the positive terminal still on the battery, and the other end of the same jumper cable can be touched to the disconnected negative terminal/cable - away from the battery (or simply touch the metal engine). If there is a spark, it is now away from any hydrogen cloud that might be over the battery.
Seems like you don't understand how this works.

Your long suggestion is really a nonsense suggestion.

Touching both battery cables together doesn't cause any spark, it just kills any "residual" charge in the system.

You know what?

Connecting/disconnecting your battery actually causes a spark, modern vehicles always have a load.

What suggestion you have about connecting/disconnecting the battery?

Maybe disconnect the ground cable from the engine first, then disconnecting the battery?

Please investigate before you provide false information to others.
 

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3rd Gen Plebeian
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I've seen the aftermath of forklift battery explosions (batteries that are up to several tons), and it only ever blows the caps off or cracks a few cells. The flame isn't as dangerous as the sulfuric acid spraying or leaking out. Those things explode around a spark because they are in a tightly confined space and get hundreds of amps dumped into them at high voltage, some trucks literally need several gallons of water a week to replace what gets vaporized during charge cycles.
You also only get hydrogen and oxygen when you are charging the battery, through electrolysis. The concentration of hydrogen needs to be really high for there to be an ignition risk and hydrogen is extremely boyant in atmospheric air. If you're in a garage or driveway, with the hood open, and you didn't just rapidly charge a dead battery, there's probably a greater possibility of being struck by lightning than accidentally exploding the battery.
 

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3rd Gen Plebeian
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408 Posts
You can also just open a door or turn on a light to instantly drain the remaining charge in the computer's capacitors
 

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^LOL ever try that? THEY DON'T REACH FAR ENOUGH TO TOUCH! Thus, my jumper cable "explanation" which actually works and is a LOT safer. Static electricity is what causes fires at gas stations. If you're still trying to discharge electricity in the system with the battery disconnected, then by your own admission there is electricity there, which could make a spark. I've never heard of this nonsense before! If the battery is disconnected even for a minute, the system is dead, considered reset. If this was even necessary, the manuals would state how to do it. Instead, they all warn against doing anything that could cause a spark around the battery. So, seems like you don't know how this works.

Even if I do accidentally give false information, I don't give unsafe suggestions.
 
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