The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
OK, so I have read through the other posts and while a couple are similar none r exactly the same that I found.

our 98 voyager 3.3 liter flex fuel , had the standard dead gauge cluster problem, (bad solder joints) I have fixed that and was working fine. Now we started having issues with the ignition cylinder not wanting to turn at all, fumble with it for a few seconds and finally it would turn. Then the van started to click upon turning the key to start the van, not alot of clicking like a half dead battery, but just a single click(starter relay?I think), after a few turns of the key it would finally fire up and run. That was going on for about 2 months, then the wife went to go to the store and she fired it up, realized she forgot her purse and when she turned the key back off, it continued running(run on) after the ignition was off, not running correctly, but rather rattling really bad and sounded like sh**, she then turned the key back to run and the bad sounds stopped and it purred like a kitten, turned the key off again and same thing. all of a sudden the instrument cluster died, showing no power at all, and the motor shut off completely. Now the van shows zero power to anything when turning the key to on and no sounds at all when turned to start.

--what I have done--

checked all fuses(none bad),
positive battery cable had a very minor amount of corrosion(replaced the battery cable clamp)(inside of wires are clean,not green) - (no change after that)

replaced starter relay (no change)
replaced ignition switch (no change)


Dont know what else to check?? less than 6mnths ago I had the tranny rebuilt ($1300) so I really need to fix this van its not junk(yet!)

sorry for the long story just wanted to try and answer most questions

any help would be appreciated.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,109 Posts
I would pull the cluster and check the solder joint on it as a first step.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Will do, however I was under the impression that the solder joint(s) would only make the cluster not work(the van always ran fine before i fixed the cluster the first time) ?
 

·
5000 Club
Joined
·
5,722 Posts
Cracked solder joints on the cluster can cause no starts, stalling in various forms and dead clusters. The cluster is on the CCD data bus. This bus is used for communication between various controllers/computers on the van. A fault anywhere on the bus can effect seemingly unassociated systems. Not that you have them but powered sliding door wire harnesses can do the same. 2010s even had a recall for them as a potential fire hazard.

Can't count out the cluster but try a few simple things first. Have someone turn the key to run then sit and watch for anything to come alive as you shake wire harnesses, battery cables, the PDC (fuse box) and it's connections and the PCM and it's connections. As I recall there's a ground under the battery tray that deserves a look. Verify the battery connection at the PDC from the battery is clean and tight and that the crimped on cable terminal is still tightly crimped to the cable. Do the same to the battery post terminals. Remember the "test" for cluster solder joints? Smack the dash.

If the cluster and all else looks good grab a multimeter and pick a system. First verify you have 12+vdc at the battery posts. The ignition system would probably reveal a clue quickest. Jumper contacts #30 and 87. The starter should rotate immediately. If it doesn't you have a weak battery or bad connection. There are many steps after that.
 

·
5000 Club
Joined
·
5,722 Posts
The 15 minute God got me. I'm too slow.

That last paragraph should say:
If the cluster and all else looks good grab a multimeter and pick a system. First verify you have 12+vdc at the battery posts. The ignition system would probably reveal a clue quickest. Remove the starter relay and jumper contacts #30 and 87. The starter should rotate immediately. If it doesn't you have a weak battery or bad connection. There are many steps after that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
OK, I've checked the cluster didn't appear to be any problems. Tried the Key and wire connection shaking etc..., Battery posts, and connection to PDC are all good, Grabbed a multimeter, which i did right after the van died and at that time it showed 12v, upon checking this time it only showed 2v... grabbed a spare battery i have and it showed 10.5v so i though i would give it a shot, still nothing. Left the key on for about 15min and did some more wire jiggling and found nothing. Rechecked the battery voltage and this time it read 5v ...so something is sucking the juice out! , Decided to try and jump the newer battery, checked for voltage output on the battery in my truck(13v) and hooked up the cables. upon hooking the neg jumper cable to the negative battery post on the van it started to spark wildly(normally crossed connection, right?) not in this case I double checked and triple checked and rehooked the cables up but again it sparked wildly and appeared to have a small blue flame, I then unhooked the cables, disconnected the battery post connection and let it sit.. checked the voltage on the battery again about 5 mins later and it showed .5v yep .5v ... So I have no idea why the battery would do that, there is no leakage around the posts and this spare battery is not very old, and gets charged up every so often.

oh I did try to jumper the contacts on the relay with both the old battery and the newer battery before i tried to jump it, and nothing happened. It is too dark now to see anymore and I dont have a garage to work in, so I have not tried checking the grounds yet.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,109 Posts
So it seems to have a short on one of the positive cables? That could cause all the problems you have as well as being unsafe. I would put the batteries on a slow charge so they don't go bad sitting dead and start checking the wiring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Update --- i decided to go ahead and get a brand new battery and see what happened. As soon as I hooked up the neg cable the starter engaged (without the key on). I immediately removed the cable, I then unhooked the 2 wires going to the starter and grabbed a multimeter, the starter itself shows a zero ohm reading, and the solenoid does show an ohm reading(sorry it was dark and I don't remember what it read)... But according to a zero ohm reading on the starter positive lug, doesn't that mean there is a dead short in the starter?

After that I hooked the wires back up to the starter just to see if there might have been a bad connection., hooked up the battery and nothing happened this time. i then turned the key in the ignition, the van started perfectly, but the starter stayed engaged. I immediately turned the key off and the starter continued to run trying to start the engine. i jumped out and unhooked the neg cable..

So I guess the starter is just not disengaging the way it should and needs replaced or rebuilt ? hopefully its still not a possible wiring issue. I figure after work tomorrow I will remove the starter adn take it down to get tested and probably buy a new one no matter what they say due to the ohm reading I got. What do ya think? -------- and thanks to you guys for trying to help me out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,109 Posts
I would agree that the starter showing a 0 ohm reading would mean on of the coils in it is shorted out. It could have stayed engaged (when it was running on with the key off?) and burnt out the coils.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
yaaaaayyy!!! I replaced the starter this evening in the dark and lo and behold everything seems to be back to normal now!!! I put my old battery on an extended charge and it is holding strong at 12.9v so I can at least take the new battery back and get my $100 back! lol.... Thanks andy and RIP for the advice and help. I would have never guessed it was the starter that was the issue...however i wasnt around when it first happened so while the wife thought the van was still running it was actually just the starter turning it over, if I had known that i would have started there!!! Again Thanks for the help and I'm pretty sure we can call this case closed!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
oh and on another note, my uncle who is a retired railroad electrician told me that the battery that acted like I had the cables reversed on, could have been drained all the way down and reversed polarity ... ?? I had never heard of that but he told me to stick it on the battery charger on a low setting and let it charge for about 16 hrs and the charger should fix it. So I did and then let it sit all day until this evening when I checked the voltage and found 12.9v . so I dont know if anyone has ever had that problem, but dont just toss the battery if that happens, try a slow extended charge first to see if it can be fixed!!
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top