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Discussion Starter #1
So this started today, picked the kid up from day care and notice my RPMs seemed off for my speed. If I let off the gas, dramatic slow down. I nursed it home and found the driver's front wheel smoking. I replaced the caliper and put it back together. I lifted it up on stands and put it in drive. I can hear the ABS kicking in and see the wheel slowing.
2001 Town and Country Limited.
3.8L
166,000
4 wheel disc
 

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Pull the wheel speed sensor and look for rust/iron build up on the sensor and in the teeth of the tone ring.
Also might want to "reset" everything by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Tried the battery trick, no joy.
New Speed sensor, still not spinning like the other side.
I may try my test with no brake pads to see if the wheel spins normally.
I pulled the ABS fuse but that didn't help at all.
Confused and frustrated, and gonna miss another day of work.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm curious if I damaged the transmission driving it home when it didn't want to roll. Passenger side spins nicely, the drivers side still hesitates. Spins then stops. I thing I'm hearing the ABS but it could be the tranny growling.....The drivers side brake was extremely hot when we pulled into the driveway, so the brakes were a factor. Just can't figure out where I stand now.
 

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Definitely check the brake caliper. See how easy it is to retract the caliper piston. If seized, it will be extremely difficult to reset.

If not caliper, then move on to looking at hub bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I didn't even think about the bearing. That could be the grumble I'm hearing. With the tunnel vision, I kept assuming it was ABS related becuase of the sound, I never felt it in the peddle. Caliper is a fresh Mopar reman. Failed bearing equals heat, multiplied by more driving means more heat. Bedtime for now, gotta figure out what to do with the kid and work for the morning. Thanks for the input guys, I'll keep you posted as the story unfolds.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I got a second pair of eyes on my problem, a little more experienced as well. So it is definitely ABS related. We let it go in drive and went to the engine compartment, the pump can be heard and felt doing its business. So is it the valve body failing (gunked up after the brake job) or the brain being stupid?
 

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Normally, if the caliper didn't fix it, I would say you have a collapsed flex hose.

Regarding the ABS, pull one of the wheel sensor connectors, or the main ABS fuse. If your problem goes away, at least you'll be able to drive it normally, until you can fix the ABS.

Also, many times the tone wheel develops a hairline crack, and begins to slip on the axle, causing ABS engagement.
 

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2009 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT (3.8); 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan eL (3.8)
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So this started today, picked the kid up from day care and notice my RPMs seemed off for my speed. If I let off the gas, dramatic slow down. I nursed it home and found the driver's front wheel smoking. I replaced the caliper and put it back together. I lifted it up on stands and put it in drive. I can hear the ABS kicking in and see the wheel slowing.
2001 Town and Country Limited.
3.8L
166,000
4 wheel disc
Tried the battery trick, no joy.
New Speed sensor, still not spinning like the other side.
I may try my test with no brake pads to see if the wheel spins normally.
I pulled the ABS fuse but that didn't help at all.
Confused and frustrated, and gonna miss another day of work.
If you have both front wheels lifted off the ground it is normal for only one wheel to spin. I suspect that the ABS may be activating as part of the Traction Control system.

Have you tried test driving the van to see if the brakes operate normally?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I went ahead and picked up a used ABS controller/ pump. Got it installed and bleed the brakes all the way around. Test drive went well. Here a few photos for anyone else who might search for ABS in the future.
The tab on top of the wiring connected is lifted straight up, it works like a cam to release the connector. Mine was quite stuck after all these years. Wiggled and pulle the connector towards the rear while prying up on the tab. It went back on much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
There a 3 bolts holding the controller to its bracket. They are on the back side so you can't see them. 13mm. Definitely easier with the wiper box removed. My replacement came with the bracket, but those bolts are even deeper and more behind stuff with engine and transmission in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So I did have to replace the hub assembly. I believe the high heat the rotor experienced lead to the failure. Te hub seemed fine for a few days but developed a wicked squeel. While I was down there I replaced the lower ball joint since the boot was melted.
 
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