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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just bought a 2019 Grand CV SXT with 70k mileage and after driving it home decided I needed to add some bass. I've seen a few other members in this community have already done so and I wanted to give it a go myself! My idea was to add this little guy pictured.
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However I don't know where to put it. I wanted to put it under the Super Console or Front seats, but it doesn't seem like there is room because of the stow n go seating in the second row. So then I was thinking of putting it where the factory sub would go as another community forum member @tschneiderpem posted this:
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However I'm not sure it will fit. Does anyone have any other ideas? I don't want to put it on the back of a chair or under the stow n go areas or out in the open in the cargo area. Below are the measurements and specs:
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I don't know much about car audio. But I want to add that I am also replacing the headunit with a Kenwood with the below specs:
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And the Infinity Reference REF-9632ix Reference Series 6"x9" 2-way car speakers which I saw recommended from community forum member: xyz. The specs are below:

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Thank you all!
 

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2013 Dodge Grand Caravan
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I put a 10" Rockford Fosgate under my front passenger seat. Had to raise the seat an inch so it didn't slap the bottom of the cushion. That looks small enough to fit without a lift.
 
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Welcome to the forum!

I'm fairly certain that sub will fit in the rear quarter panel, but you'd have to secure it somehow to prevent it from rattling. Remember that if you want to put it into that spot you need to remove the quarter panel storage cubby first.

You can also add a factory subwoofer enclosure which will bolt onto the vehicle perfectly. You can choose tp upgrade the subwoofer to aftermarket if you want and run a aftermarket amp for the sub. The factory grille replaces the quarter panel storage cubby for the premium system with sub, I would personally add that to protect the subwoofer from whatever you decide to carry in the back;
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Unless I'm looking at it wrong, that red connector is for the sub and it's a 4 pin, which means it's a dual voice coil speaker. Two pairs of contacts will have continuity to each other and not the other two when measured on the speaker end. Polarity is easy to check on the other end while something is playing. That'll be enough to swap a speaker of similar wattage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
The gear I ordered came. Here's a parts list. I don't know how it will sound or how the install will go as this is my first time, but I'll keep you all up to date. I also bought 4 infinity ref-3032cfx and the metra speaker wiring harnesses to go with them. It does say these speakers will not fit, but I believe I read someone else on the forum got them to fit. The advisor I spoke with recommended trimming/sanding the underside of the dash down a bit so that the speakers don't hit the dash grill. I was originally going to add these for the front 3 dash speakers and have a spare, but I got talked out of adding a center speaker since I originally have the 6 speaker configuration. I decided not to replace the 6x9s in the rear as my kids don't care about audio quality. If they get blown out or tear I will replace them (the speakers not the kids). For the front doors I'm using infinity ref 9632ix 6x9s. I'm going to take my chances with the stock Sirius/XM antenna and connect the tuner to that.
I'm going to try to get my stock backup camera working without one of the additional adapters they sell (hen-av-ch1) because I don't have the entertainment package in my vehicle.
I've been told this configuration will handle steering controls, Sirius/XM radio, stock backup cam, Bluetooth Voice hands free driving with stock mic, etc.
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For the sub replacement I found with my configuration it does not fit all the way under the driver seat. It will fit easily most places with its size including the accessory bay in the back where the stock sub goes. My config doesn't have the stock sub.
Here you can see the su does not fit under the driver side seat.
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Here you can see it does fit under the passenger side seat but it does block the stow and go configuration in the second row a bit. That's easy to deal with though and I don't ever put my seats down.

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You can also see how thin this sub is. But it's only 180watt RMS.

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It should go all the way under. Is it hanging on wires? You may need to trim the carpet back to get the wire out of the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
It should go all the way under. Is it hanging on wires? You may need to trim the carpet back to get the wire out of the way.
It's hard to show but it looks like there is a duct vent in the way and the opening to the Stow N Go seats. I'll try again later. The wires are not hooked up yet. The sub hit the duct vent and only goes in half way. I'm wondering if that vent would make the sub too hot in the winter.
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I got the Infinity reference 3.5's to fit all 3 dash speaker spots in my van, without any clearance issues whatsoever. The older silver reference 3.5's use a larger magnet then these newer copper and black ones, they all fit without issues.
I added the premium amplified system to my 2009 caravan which originally had 4 speakers, the premium amplified system has 9 speakers plus subwoofer including 3 dash speakers and 2 D-pillar tweeters. I now run all aftermarket infinity reference speakers (except the sub). They sound great, I do wish the door speakers were a bit louder but I now have some older Infinity Kappa 6x9's I'm going to be putting in place of the reference 6x9's. 96db vs 94db should be prefect.
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Sounds great!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I got the Infinity reference 3.5's to fit all 3 dash speaker spots in my van, without any clearance issues whatsoever. The older silver reference 3.5's use a larger magnet then these newer copper and black ones, they all fit without issues.
I added the premium amplified system to my 2009 caravan which originally had 4 speakers, the premium amplified system has 9 speakers plus subwoofer including 3 dash speakers and 2 D-pillar tweeters. I now run all aftermarket infinity reference speakers (except the sub). They sound great, I do wish the door speakers were a bit louder but I now have some older Infinity Kappa 6x9's I'm going to be putting in place of the reference 6x9's. 96db vs 94db should be prefect.


Sounds great!
That's awesome! If you can offer advice on an aftermarket amp to run 9 speakers let me know! I believe i read your post originally and that's how I got the idea to use the 3 speakers of this model in the dash. The problem for me is the head unit I got only has 4 channels at 22W and it's powering the 6 speakers now. I think I would have to wire up the center speaker to a small mono amp to get to work best, not sure if it's worth the cost to value ratio. Also I may be mistaken, but I believe your system uses 2ohm speakers and mine are 4ohm having the 6 speaker system. If I daisy chained the center it would drop the ohms and wattage to that channel.
 

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That's awesome! If you can offer advice on an aftermarket amp to run 9 speakers let me know! I believe i read your post originally and that's how I got the idea to use the 3 speakers of this model in the dash. The problem for me is the head unit I got only has 4 channels at 22W and it's powering the 6 speakers now. I think I would have to wire up the center speaker to a small mono amp to get to work best, not sure if it's worth the cost to value ratio. Also I may be mistaken, but I believe your system uses 2ohm speakers and mine are 4ohm having the 6 speaker system. If I daisy chained the center it would drop the ohms and wattage to that channel.
  • I'm not really sure on aftermarket amps since I only do factory equipment, I don't think you will find an aftermarket amp to run 9 speakers. The factory amp uses 11 active channels, 2 for the sub (dual voice coil), and one channel per speaker. You could buy 2 4 channel amplifiers which would then power 8 speakers and it would allow you to tune speakers separately, instead of only 4 channels where you would only tune the channel and you would have a dash speaker and door speaker running from the same channel and same time alignment which probably won't be as good.
  • The premium amplified sound system is a surround sound system, adding a center dash speaker to help center the sound, adding 2 forward facing rear speakers for the small background sounds, and a subwoofer for the low frequencies. I'm not a sound expert, but I do like the center channel since it's meant to make the sound better for multiple sitting positions (people) instead of just one. Everything I do is on a budget, and if I was to install a center speaker to a vehicle without, using amplifiers and a sound processor, I wouldn't take the route as the reward doesn't justify the effort and cost, for me anyway.
-Yes, the speakers are 2ohm opposed to the base system which is 4 ohm. The dash speakers are wired as parallel circuits with the front doors, just keep that in mind for your radio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay for anyone looking for advice on gear. The original parts list does not work well with my setup. The headunit is over heating because of the parallel speakers. I decided to get an amp to fix this. Also my backup camera is not working, so I'm going to add a harness adapter.
 

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Overheating headunit? Yet another reason not to buy Kenwood. Heat management is a vital part of amplified headunits. They should be able to run continuously at full volume and be fine. I've never had any radio overheat. I have seen it happen before with the overpriced brands like Kenwood and Alpine though. Those two in particular have been banking on the reputation they gained in the late '80s and have steadily made worse products as time goes on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Overheating headunit? Yet another reason not to buy Kenwood. Heat management is a vital part of amplified headunits. They should be able to run continuously at full volume and be fine. I've never had any radio overheat. I have seen it happen before with the overpriced brands like Kenwood and Alpine though. Those two in particular have been banking on the reputation they gained in the late '80s and have steadily made worse products as time goes on.
The Kenwood is pretty amazing in my opinion. I just don't know how speakers work. It wasn't overheating as in shutting off. Just hot to touch (hotter than I think it should be). I was told the reason for this is with the speaker configuration that I put in, it's basically going 1.5 ohms to the headunit (which supports 4 ohm configs) because the 6x9 speakers I got are rated at 3 ohms and they were parallel with the tweeters. Again I'm not expert at this. Once I get this all up and running nice I'll post a new parts list. The headunit I purchased supports all of the stock features of the van and has great audio management (software crossovers etc.) It also sounds way better than the stock system, but I suppose that goes with anything that is after market.
 

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Amplified headunits do get hot. Not something you want to test run in your lap for more than a minute or two. There should be a thermal protection circuit on it that will trip if it gets hotter than it's supposed to. That said, you do not want your driver (headunit or amplifier) to require a higher ohm rating than your speakers. You need an amp that matches the lowest ohm rating of your speakers. If you have some that are different than others, it may be best to get multiple amps. Like from what you said above it seems you have 3 ohm main speakers and 1.5 ohm tweeters. For that I would get a 4.1 channel amplifier rated at 3 ohms to drive the mains and sub (which is probably a 4 ohm), and a small 2 channel amp to handle the 1.5 ohm tweeters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Amplified headunits do get hot. Not something you want to test run in your lap for more than a minute or two. There should be a thermal protection circuit on it that will trip if it gets hotter than it's supposed to. That said, you do not want your driver (headunit or amplifier) to require a higher amperage than your speakers. You need an amp that matches the lowest ohm rating of your speakers. If you have some that are different than others, it may be best to get multiple amps. Like from what you said above it seems you have 3 ohm main speakers and 1.5 ohm tweeters. For that I would get a 4.1 channel amplifier rated at 3 ohms to drive the mains and sub (which is probably a 4 ohm), and a small 2 channel amp to handle the 1.5 ohm tweeters.
Thank you. I ended up getting the following which can handle it.
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Just noticed my error in my last post and fixed it, but since I said pretty much the same thing with the right word in the next sentence it shouldn't have lead you astray.
That said, you do not want your driver (headunit or amplifier) to require a higher ohm rating than your speakers.
That should do. Shows up as a 2 ohm. Given its rating of 100w per channel it won't drive the sub, but I think I saw you had an amp for it already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just noticed my error in my last post and fixed it, but since I said pretty much the same thing with the right word in the next sentence it shouldn't have lead you astray.


That should do. Shows up as a 2 ohm. Given its rating of 100w per channel it won't drive the sub, but I think I saw you had an amp for it already.
Ah yes the kicker sub has an amp built into the box already so I'm good there. Thanks!
 
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