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Dodge Grand Caravan 2007

It looks to me like the fan is working since is blowing cold air, so I assume it's not a fuse problem.

So the heater blows cold air, but not as cold as when the AC is on. I have looked at the other threads with a similar problem, what they don't state is if their AC was working, so I am not sure if this changes anything. Sugestions welcome.

Thank you,
aemi
 

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1. Have you checked the radiator coolant level?
2. how long have you owned the van and has the heater ever worked properly?
3. manual or ATC (digital) climate control?
 

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Dodge Grand Caravan 2007

It looks to me like the fan is working since is blowing cold air, so I assume it's not a fuse problem.

So the heater blows cold air, but not as cold as when the AC is on. I have looked at the other threads with a similar problem, what they don't state is if their AC was working, so I am not sure if this changes anything. Sugestions welcome.

Thank you,
aemi
AC system uses refrigerant, heating system uses coolant. The aren't dependent on each other except the fans are common.

If the coolant is down below the heater pipes, you won't get heat. Take the radiator cap off and top up the coolant.

Hope that works.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
1. Have you checked the radiator coolant level?
2. how long have you owned the van and has the heater ever worked properly?
3. manual or ATC (digital) climate control?
1. Yes, it is in the middle between min and max.
2. Less then a month and the heater worked about 2 weeks ago.
3. Manual climate control.

I must make a correction to my initial post, it's blowing slightly warm air I think.
 

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2009 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT (3.8); 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan eL (3.8)
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AC system uses refrigerant, heating system uses coolant. The aren't dependent on each other except the fans are common.

If the coolant is down below the heater pipes, you won't get heat. Take the radiator cap off and top up the coolant.

Hope that works.
+ 1 but make sure engine is warm (open thermostat) and running.
 

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as others have said - you need to check the actual coolant in the radiator.

make sure the radiator cap is cool to the touch, and if so remove it
go start the engine, and turn the heater on (for both front and rear if applicable)
fill the radiator with coolant while continuing to let the car run
watch and top off until the car has been at normal running temperature for several minuites
cap it off and shut it down
 

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Discussion Starter #8
as others have said - you need to check the actual coolant in the radiator.

make sure the radiator cap is cool to the touch, and if so remove it
go start the engine, and turn the heater on (for both front and rear if applicable)
fill the radiator with coolant while continuing to let the car run
watch and top off until the car has been at normal running temperature for several minuites
cap it off and shut it down
So I did that. Turned the heater and fan (?) on. Initially, the fluid was all the way to the top. After starting the engine it would drop, I would top it up. It overflowed a few times. Left the car running a few minutes, but then it would spill again. The temperature gauge was always one small line from the middle (big line in center). During this time I noticed it went all the way in the middle. Then it dropped to the usual again.

I have noticed a lot of bubbles though. Not sure if that is normal.

Heat a little better but not much.
 

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So I did that. Turned the heater and fan (?) on. Initially, the fluid was all the way to the top. After starting the engine it would drop, I would top it up. It overflowed a few times. Left the car running a few minutes, but then it would spill again. The temperature gauge was always one small line from the middle (big line in center). During this time I noticed it went all the way in the middle. Then it dropped to the usual again.

I have noticed a lot of bubbles though. Not sure if that is normal.

Heat a little better but not much.
Bubbles ... mmm

The needle will move a bit normally. The temperature will go up a bit, the fans will come on, the temperature will go down. Being below the middle by a notch or so is normal based on my previous 4th Generations.

I have never had any problems getting air out of the 4th Generations with the V6 motors. I would just add coolant a couple times after running them for a bit. Are you on a level surface. Check your OE radiator hose clamps to see if they still have spring tension. They can fail and look normal, except for a possible leak.

Any white smoke coming from your exhaust?

Air bubbles - does your system go down in coolant over a period of time? Being down 2 or 3 inches in the radiator filler neck is not a problem usually. Sometimes it could be to the top, the next day down a bit - not a problem.

Air could getting sucked into the system through a small leak in the hose going to the reservoir. Check to see if you reservoir keeps gaining fluid on its own over time.

Do you have rear air? If so, what's happening there?

Has the blower fan been replaced recently? If so, installation may be faulty. When you set the system to high heat (to the right) and defrost mode, is there a lot of air flow to the windshield?

Has you engine ever been overheated? Has the coolant been tested recently for strength? Has Stop Leak been added to the system?
 

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I have seen a few gen4's where the heater tubes are higher then the radiator fill neck....the fact that you are gettiing bubbles could be a good sign, as air in the system could cause coolant to not run through the heater core....If you want to take this one step further, try lifting the front right corner of the van (jack stand, ramp, or park with the front tire on a curb, and try it again...The issue with the fill is if the radiator neck is not the highest point in the system it will trap air...worst case with trapped air is overheating, then you get the no/wek heat, followed by a really neat "running water" sound from behind the dash.

It sounds like you are on the right track
(but I also agree with everything jeepman said...)
 

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Was driving thru the Great Smokey Mountains last week and needed a touch of warmth to the air flow. Cranked the knob over and got none. Cranked it back to cold... then back to hot, and I heard a soft sigh as the heater blend door unstuck and opened.

If your coolant is good, suspect a stuck heater blend door.
 

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i always parked on an incline or jacked the front up when filling the radiator. The heater core is the highest point in the cooling system, and if there's air in the system, that's where the air bubble tends to settle to. That's why no heat is one of the first signs that your coolant level is low.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You guys are awesome. Thank you so much for your help. So I take the air out of the radiator, and the heat is working great, except it only worked a few times. Because, it seems to be the blend door, I had to turn the knob a few times and wait and try again and eventually I hear a noise and then the heat is working. Similar to larryz description.

I am now trying to find here on the forum, how to locate and fix the blend door.
 

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Carry a rubber mallet with you. When things don't work, give them a whack. Works for the blower motor for sure. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Guys, no kidding where is the blend door on this minivan? is it in the center under the dash? It's not under the passenger and not under driver as far as I can see...
 

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