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2009 Chrysler Town & Country
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2009 Town & Country 25th Anniv edition. So Fri night all the sudden I had the Brake warning light, ABS warning light, and traction control warning light all light up, and my speedometer started jumping all around. Odometer, gas gauge, temp gauge and tach all worked. I had to drive it home 5 more miles, got home, parked it.

Saturday morning I go out. Key fob isn't unlocking the van, none of the doors will unlock or open, remote start isn't working. Manually get into the van, put the key fob into the ignition, nothing. No interior lights, no dash lights, no radio, no heat/AC. I figure it was the battery dead, we hit below freezing the night before, maybe that killed it. Battery showed fully charged. Further, I still have power through the CLA, plugged in my phone no issues. I thought maybe it's the battery in the fob that's dead, and thus not sending a signal to the WIN module. Replaced it, but no change at all.

I called my local preferred garage, they said they don't have the tools to diagnose and repair, call a dealership. Called my local dealership. They said it could be literally anything. They'd need to put it on the diagnostic machine and start trying to run it down, but they cannot schedule me for service for at least a month, maybe longer.

Is there anything I could be doing to try to trace down what's happened?
 

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How old is the battery? You noted the battery showed fully charged; how was this determined?

A battery can show 12.4+ but not have enough capacity to actually power the vehicle.

Any corrosion at the battery terminals? A meter may show fully charged but corrosion will reduce the amount of current flow. You should also be checking for bad/broken grounds as this also reduces the current flow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How old is the battery? You noted the battery showed fully charged; how was this determined?

A battery can show 12.4+ but not have enough capacity to actually power the vehicle.

Any corrosion at the battery terminals? A meter may show fully charged but corrosion will reduce the amount of current flow. You should also be checking for bad/broken grounds as this also reduces the current flow.
Battery is 12/2019. I have a jump pack and a voltage reader that showed battery was at 14.7v and was not draining. No corrosion. Power is coming through the accessory port, I can charge my phone, but nothing else appears to be powering up.
 

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2008 Chrysler Town & Country Limited 4.0
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Check the battery cables, especially where they attach to the battery. We had a connection go bad, leaving my wife stranded a couple times, but it jump-started easily. Figured out that the jumper cable clamp was tightening the connection to the battery, but was it was removed it was an intermittently loose connection.
 

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Ok, you have power to accessories.
Try disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes then reconnecting it. If that doesn't improve things do a Hard Reset. It is not complicated, look it up.
If those do nothing you may have something at the TIPM.

What do you see at the dash Security light? -- RED DOT upper right. When you turn on the ignition, stays ON then OFF, flashing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, you have power to accessories.
Try disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes then reconnecting it. If that doesn't improve things do a Hard Reset. It is not complicated, look it up.
If those do nothing you may have something at the TIPM.

What do you see at the dash Security light? -- RED DOT upper right. When you turn on the ignition, stays ON then OFF, flashing?
Dash security light is not on. Nothing happens at all when you turn on the ignition.
 

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It is not chemically possible for a lead-acid battery to exceed 12.6 volts (2.1 volts per cell). After charging, the battery may read higher but the surface charge will dissipate after 20-30 minutes.

With the battery pack connected, was there any change when you turned tried to start the vehicle? With the battery pack connected were any other systems active, e.g radio?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It is not chemically possible for a lead-acid battery to exceed 12.6 volts (2.1 volts per cell). After charging, the battery may read higher but the surface charge will dissipate after 20-30 minutes.

With the battery pack connected, was there any change when you turned tried to start the vehicle? With the battery pack connected were any other systems active, e.g radio?
No, there was no change.
 

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Just my 2 cents, but it seems all faults are related as mentioned before. It could be something as simple as a lost or broken ground. Or a broken power lead. I would start at your fuse box. using a volt meter, check the voltage of your main fuses that are powered with the ignition off. Then put the key in on position and check for voltage across the rest of your fuses. If you aren't getting power to your fuses, check for a wiring fault. If you are getting voltage, you may have a failed ECU. If you come to the conclusion of a failed ECU, then you try a junkyard for a replacement or try to find one online.
 

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I had a 2000 T&C that would do that to me now and then. I did a search and the answer I found (might have been in this forum) was a loose connection in the dash. Instead of tearing out the dash it was suggested to use a fist and give a sharp blow just to the right of the cluster near the little access pop out. I gave it a try and it worked for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thank you for all the suggestions. I also had some suggestions that I attempt a hard reset of the TPIM. As I had no other options on the day before Thanksgiving, I tried it for 3 hours, that didn't work. I also took a multimeter to the battery and it read 7.6v. Got the battery to Walmart, and they determined it was bad, but were refusing to honor the 5 year warranty (of which I am in year 2), and would only give me $20 off a new one at $135.

I made it over to Rural King this morning and got a better battery with a full 5 year warranty for $72.

Also grabbed a can of lithium grease. All the videos on removing the TPIM made it look super easy, it wasn't. Maybe it was easy 13 years ago, but now all my plastics are brittle and tight-fitting. I had to fight and I cracked a few things (thankfully not vital). After getting it loose it's clear this isn't the first time the TPIM was messed with. So putting it back together all the sockets got a little lube on the outside (woulda preferred dielectric grease, but none was found) and everything went in smooth.

New battery installed, and everything fired back to life.

I still have the brake, ABS and traction control lights on, but the speedometer is now working correctly again. More problems to run down another day.
 
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