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2005 Caravan/ Town & Country
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am thinking of install 2 9s or 1 10 centered in the hatch.

I have the auto hatch not sure how strong it is .. I know adding weight is never good.. I would pick nothing pro
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series.
 

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3rd Gen Plebeian
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager Rallye
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There is no space behind the plastic and no solid metal to mount the sub to. You can cut into the tailgate structure, but without reinforcement it will just rattle like crazy
There was a lot of empty space in my third gen tailgate when i had it apart. It was also a really solid structure with very few holes in the inner skin. I have no clue what the internal volume is, or what you'd need volume wise. I'd guess that you'd want to either spray expanding foam inside to reduce volume and stiffen the steel if you run sealed, or port the tailgate to take advantage of the volume.

Probably best to cut your own hole through the plastic trim and inner skin for speaker mounting, then use construction adhesive and pop rivers to seal the inner skin.
 
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188 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ported definitely.. I have too see what it looks like under plastic and i could just reforce the plastic skin and make that mounting deck and line with dynamat

we do a lot drive ins so be perfect once gate is open and have speaker going
 

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Good bass requires a solid…base. The tailgate is not it unless you like rattles and fart sounds
^ This.

When I was in my late teens, I built a sub enclosure for two 12"s in my Chevy pickup. The front, sides, and bottom were wood. It was screwed and sealed to the back of the cab. When the bass hit, the sheet metal on the back of the cab would actually "oil can" / flex / pulsate in and out.:LOL: Needless to say, it sounded like crap.
 

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3rd Gen Plebeian
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager Rallye
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1,434 Posts
Good bass requires a solid…base. The tailgate is not it unless you like rattles and fart sounds
Where do they put the subwoofers on the newer minivans? Inside a plastic box?

I have a 70lb 18" sub in a +60lb mdf box in my van, and two deep cycle batteries in the back to feed the continuous 200? Amp draw of my 2000 watt RMS amplifier.

"Good" bass requires a lot of sacrifice. But, sound is Logarithmic, so in order to double the loudness, you need 10 times the energy. A 100 watt subwoofer like an 8" or a 10" is only twice as loud as a 10watt speaker. A 1000 watt subwoofer that is literally vibrating bolts loose and flexing the van is only 4 times as loud as a 10 watt speaker or 2 times as loud as the 100 watt. To go the next step to 10,000 watts, you probably have concrete filled doors, plexiglass windows, three or more alternators, and you're only 4 times as loud as the 100 watt option.

The inner skin of the rear hatch is ridiculously stiff on my 97 minivan. I wouldnt have reason to speculate that the 5th gen is different when it's the better part of 1000lbs heavier.

Just fill the outer edges of the void inside the hatch with expanding foam, it'll make the entire structure more rigid. You can also place some wood blocks around the center area of the hatch, and add expanding foam between the blocks and the inner/outer skin. You probably wouldnt even need a CLD like dynamat with that setup, since it'd be so stiff and both the wood and foam would act as harmonic dampers.

I'd definitely punch a hole straight through the trim panel AND the inner skin, then mount the subwoofer to the inner skin, and put a grille on the trim to protect the sub. You can either use enough foam to reduce the internal volume of the hatch, or port the hatch back into the cab, or add pillow filler to increase the effective volume if it's too small.

I think you'd want a single or pair of larger subs, rather than three subs of two different sizes. It'd be hard to tune two different makes/sizes/models of subs to play harmoniously even in different enclosures, if using the same enclosure they'd be really disruptive and unpredictable to each others sound.

My sliding doors are about 90% filled with expanding foam, it's amazing stuff. My hatch and front doors have tar backed asphalt roofing shingle stuck to the inner skin, outer skin, and back of the plastic trim. Then, I used rubbery adhesive to glue closed cell foam over the holes in the inner skin. Then, I layered closed cell foam, 1/4" rubber mat, and closed cell foam, in between the inner skin and interior trim. If you knock on the outside of my van, it sounds like you're knocking on a brick wall. The only downside is that my lift struts on the hatch are barely able to hold the hatch open, if you added a subwoofer you'd definitely need to upgrade the lift struts.
 
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