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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so first off, maybe a couple weeks ago before I changed out the radiator, I noticed a sort of high pitched whining kinda noise comin from the back of the van while I was idling. It also did it if i just turned the power on with the key. I figured the pump was on its way out.

Now today, after driving about 4+ hours around town looking for a job, I was pulling out of a parking lot (AC was on, temperature 100+) and it started idling rough and the van didn't wanna move.. I pressed on the pedal a little harder and got it moving and it was fine all the way home.

Sounds like its time to replace the fuel pump, right? Any other ideas/similar experiences?

Also, I have the haynes manual and it doesn't look too very hard to replace the pump, but has anyone done a write up on this?

Thanks!

2000 T&C 3.3
 

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Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail test port and you'll know for sure. You'll be looking for 49 psi. You can sign out a gauge from Autozone or several other parts stores.

Changed a pump once on one of these vans ages ago. Toughest part was getting the lock ring loose. I believe I used a strap wrench. If I had to change one now I'd let the pros do it. I've read far too many nightmare stories about working around fuel tanks. If you insist just don't do it in your garage. Be a shame for you to lose both the van and the house.
 

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I have also read that you do not want to unstrap nor lower the tank UNTIL the lock ring is loose. A secure tank allows the hold needed to break the ring free.

You might also want to replace the fuel filter first. A clogged filter will keep pressure lower. But it does sound like the pump is on its way out.

I do not think it is that dangerous of a job but you do need to observe precautions. Extinguish all cigarettes and stogies while working near the tank. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok so it did it again to me today so I stopped at the first auto zone I saw..

psi at the check valve on the rail started out at 55 when I started the van then dropped to a steady ~28 while idling.

So I'll be ordering a pump and filter. I'm a little confused as to what you mean by loosening the lock ring before unstrapping and lowering the tank - it makes sense but - I thought these things had to be done in order to just get to the lock ring area on top?
 

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You can lower the tank a bit by loosening the outboard bolts about half way and the inboard bolts to all but a few threads. This gives easier access to the lock ring yet still holds the tank so you can torque off the ring.

Fellow forum member Daash clued me in to making a modified strap wrench using a strip of an old serpentine belt (gives you another excuse to replace yours if it's been a while) as some strap wrenches will break (the rubber strip part) when you torque it heavily. I have a post with pictures elsewhere showing the process. SEE THIS POST.

Also, it helps a lot to have as little gas in the tank as possible. I would suggest unhooking one of the lines while you have the filter off and hook some tubing up to one of the lines and run it into a gas can and jumper the fuel relay terminals to get it to pump the gas out into the can. (from the above linked post, it is pins 3 and 5 that you jumper where the fuel pump relay plugs in at the relay/fuse block under the hood).
 
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