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I am measuring still have about .1 amp draw with everything off after several hours of shutting the ignition off. Tried pulling fuses and find the only one that reduces the draw is the EATX fuse. When I pull that the draw drops to about .04 amps or less. When I reinstall the fuse the relay snaps and the draw goes back to .1. I tried to pull the EATX relay but no change as long as the fuse is in. Also switched a couple of relays but no change. Any ideas what might be the solution?
 

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You may have a wiring short somewhere that is grounding the wire that the PCM signals to pull the relay in. Since the relay is in, the TCM then gets power and is sitting there idle "turned on". Maybe wiggle the wiring harness's around and see if that causes the amp meter to drop down.
 

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The relay is normally controlled by TCM and is used to supply power to the solenoid unit. It shouldn't be closed with ignition off. You might need a wiring diagram to solve this one.
 

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Wow.........what are the odds. I have the EXACT same van with the EXACT same problem. Current draw remains at @65 milliamps until the EATX fuse is pulled. Then draw drops to 12 milliamps or so. It happened to be the first fuse I pulled................couldn't do that again! Any input or experiences would be greatly appreciated.
 

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How do I measure the Amps? My DVM only goes up to 1A or something like that and I know the battery itself far exceeds that, don't want to blow the meter up!

PS: Yes, I have the same problem. Don't know exact draws yet, but the battery drains to dead overnight.
 

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dwphoenix, you must have a DVM that at least goes to 10A. If you buy a new DVM it should have instructions as far as the set up of the meter itself.

Don't have the key on - just take it out of the ignition.

Don't open any doors when conducting the test.

If you check all the fuses under the hood, disconnect your meter and use something - a piece of wood with C-clamp or something of the sort - to hold the light switch on the driver's door in the "off" position. Don't remove whatever is holding the switch in the off position while the meter is connected.

Ensure the battery is fully charged. Remove the negative battery terminal.

The reading is obtained by setting up the meter per the instructions to read DC amps. Attach the red lead to the negative battery cable - which at this point should be removed from the battery. Attach the black lead to the negative terminal on the battery. The reading will give you the amps being drawn by the vehicle. At a 10A setting, a .10 reading would mean you are drawing 100mAmps. A .08 would mean a draw of 80 mAmps. Anything above 50 mAmps is not good.

Starting under the hood, remove fuses, one at a time. If the reading drops when you remove a fuse to a reading below 50mAmps, you probably have identified the component causing the problem.

At this point do not have meter connected - ensure "off" of drivers door light switch.

If you remove all the fuses under the hood and cannot find the problem, go to the fuse box inside the passengers compartment - normally located under the dash on the drivers side.

Reconnect the meter per above and check the fuses under the dash. Good luck.
 
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