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Discussion Starter #1
I new to the forum’s. I’m wanting to put bigger rotors in the front of my 2000 gc and was wanting to know if anyone has already done this. If so what part’s and or year vans should I be looking for? I’m doing this because the front rotors on my GC are a pita to get. Thanks In advance.
 

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I new to the forum’s. I’m wanting to put bigger rotors in the front of my 2000 gc and was wanting to know if anyone has already done this. If so what part’s and or year vans should I be looking for? I’m doing this because the front rotors on my GC are a pita to get. Thanks In advance.
Bigger rotors need bigger calipers. ATE makes a set of slotted rotors for the 3rd gens, I have 'em in my '97, stops much better. Do that with a set of ceramic pads. Make sure you get the set for the specific wheel size, SE's 15", non SE 14. Check the tire. Get them from Advance Auto, or Amazon, note Plymouth Prowler uses the same rotor.

Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk
 

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Latent car nut
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I new to the forum’s. I’m wanting to put bigger rotors in the front of my 2000 gc and was wanting to know if anyone has already done this. If so what part’s and or year vans should I be looking for? I’m doing this because the front rotors on my GC are a pita to get. Thanks In advance.
The best bang for the buck is to swap out a few suspension parts on the front end and use the Gen4 front brakes. There are several threads on this site which detail the job.

FWIW, while the Gen4 rotors are the exact same diameter as the Gen3 rotors, they are significantly thicker giving much better thermal mass.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Bigger rotors need bigger calipers. ATE makes a set of slotted rotors for the 3rd gens, I have 'em in my '97, stops much better. Do that with a set of ceramic pads. Make sure you get the set for the specific wheel size, SE's 15", non SE 14. Check the tire. Get them from Advance Auto, or Amazon, note Plymouth Prowler uses the same rotor.

Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk
I work at advance. The problem I’m having is that the two different rotors it calls for are A: two big B:the ones that are the same size have a smaller bolt pattern.
 

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3rd Gen Plebeian
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4th gen brake swap, front. Rear disc from a 3rd gen AWD, or preferably a 4th gen(tiny bit wider pads).


I just did my front 4th gen swap 2 months ago, the rear disc I finished 2 days ago, new tires 1 month ago.

It stops alarmingly fast now, it will put unsecured items into the windshield.

The 4th gen has thicker rotors, but it also has a larger caliper piston diameter. Finally, it has an aluminum spindle that shaves 15lbs of unsprung weight, so ride quality and handling are slightly increased on paper.
The parts you need for the swap are-
  • 4th gen spindle
  • 4th gen outer tie rods
  • 4th gen rotor, caliper and pads
  • 4th gen strut
  • 4th gen ball joint or lower control arm
  • 4th gen hub bolts(they're longer)
 

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3rd gen > all others
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If you opt for the 4th gen brake upgrade and get 4th gen struts, you will have to put your 3rd gen upper strut mounts on them.

So your van stops okay, but you can't find rotors? As long as they are not warping, you should be fine with stock rotors. I wanted more reliable braking and faster stops (with a fully loaded van) so I opted to do the 4th gen van front brake upgrade. Being in the north, I still have trouble with the rotors rusting and getting pitted on the pad surface making replacement necessary. I keep finding good clean rotors at the junkyard for a good price, so I've yet to buy brand new rotors.

A location would help, to make recommendations. If you are in the rust-prone areas, I suggest finding a PLATED, not coated rotor. I got Centric plated front rotors for our 2005 Magnum R/T when we had it, and they never rusted in the 2-3 years we used them. I got Duralast coated rear rotors for our 2011 Sienna, and they started rusting after only one winter. Bought the Centrics at Rock Auto (a vendor here), and the Duralasts at a store.

You can use the 4th gen rotors on a 3rd gen Grand, but only with pads that are worn down enough to fit the thicker rotor into the caliper. New pads would never fit, at least not without removing 1/3 of the friction material.

If you just want basic 3rd gen rotors and not worried about rust, I found the ones at Advance Auto.:

Part # YH145152

You could try painting the cast areas with an epoxy paint like POR15 like I did, to make them last a little longer. My paint still started to flake off after a couple of years because the rust starts at the edges and works it's way under. This is why I want plated rotors someday. Although if you're in the rust belt like me, you have other things to worry about like the strut towers and rear brake lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you opt for the 4th gen brake upgrade and get 4th gen struts, you will have to put your 3rd gen upper strut mounts on them.

So your van stops okay, but you can't find rotors? As long as they are not warping, you should be fine with stock rotors. I wanted more reliable braking and faster stops (with a fully loaded van) so I opted to do the 4th gen van front brake upgrade. Being in the north, I still have trouble with the rotors rusting and getting pitted on the pad surface making replacement necessary. I keep finding good clean rotors at the junkyard for a good price, so I've yet to buy brand new rotors.

A location would help, to make recommendations. If you are in the rust-prone areas, I suggest finding a PLATED, not coated rotor. I got Centric plated front rotors for our 2005 Magnum R/T when we had it, and they never rusted in the 2-3 years we used them. I got Duralast coated rear rotors for our 2011 Sienna, and they started rusting after only one winter. Bought the Centrics at Rock Auto (a vendor here), and the Duralasts at a store.

You can use the 4th gen rotors on a 3rd gen Grand, but only with pads that are worn down enough to fit the thicker rotor into the caliper. New pads would never fit, at least not without removing 1/3 of the friction material.

If you just want basic 3rd gen rotors and not worried about rust, I found the ones at Advance Auto.:

Part # YH145152

You could try painting the cast areas with an epoxy paint like POR15 like I did, to make them last a little longer. My paint still started to flake off after a couple of years because the rust starts at the edges and works it's way under. This is why I want plated rotors someday. Although if you're in the rust belt like me, you have other things to worry about like the strut towers and rear brake lines.
I’m in Indianapolis. And the rotors you listed are of a bigger diameter than mine. I may just have to do the swap as my rotors are warped and one has some grooves in it.
 

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3rd Gen Plebeian
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I’m in Indianapolis. And the rotors you listed are of a bigger diameter than mine. I may just have to do the swap as my rotors are warped and one has some grooves in it.
Those rotors ARE the correct diameter for the 5 x 4 1/2" bolt pattern, which you should have. If not, then someone put the wrong rotors on it - somehow. They should be 11.09" diameter, or 282mm. The smaller rotors have the 5x4" bolt pattern with 256mm/ 10" diameter and usually cane on the short vans with the 4 cylinder engine. Either you have an anomally, or you need to take the correct measurements to find out what you have. I'm surprised how many people don't know how to properly measure a bolt pattern.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Those rotors ARE the correct diameter for the 5 x 4 1/2" bolt pattern, which you should have. If not, then someone put the wrong rotors on it - somehow. They should be 11.09" diameter, or 282mm. The smaller rotors have the 5x4" bolt pattern with 256mm/ 10" diameter and usually cane on the short vans with the 4 cylinder engine. Either you have an anomally, or you need to take the correct measurements to find out what you have. I'm surprised how many people don't know how to properly measure a bolt pattern.
I have the 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern.
 

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3rd Gen Plebeian
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Can you post a picture of your calipers and rotors?
Like Road Ripper said, there were only two sizes from the factory on the 3rd gen.
The larger rotor fits onto the 5 × 4.5" hub with 15" or 16" wheels, and the smaller rotor fits onto the 5 × 4" hub with factory 14" wheels.

I suppose it's possible somebody swapped hubs and put smaller rotors on.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Can you post a picture of your calipers and rotors?
Like Road Ripper said, there were only two sizes from the factory on the 3rd gen.
The larger rotor fits onto the 5 × 4.5" hub with 15" or 16" wheels, and the smaller rotor fits onto the 5 × 4" hub with factory 14" wheels.

I suppose it's possible somebody swapped hubs and put smaller rotors on.
Will do as soon as it’s stops raining and I can get the wheel off.
 

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If you opt for the 4th gen brake upgrade and get 4th gen struts, you will have to put your 3rd gen upper strut mounts on them.
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So the 4th gen springs can work on 3rd gen?

Don't mean to butt in, guys. :) The other threads on this subject I've watched all seem to suggest using the 4th gen struts or shocks ONLY, and then swapping over everything from the 3rd gen struts to the 4th gen. Springs, upper mounts, bellows and what not.
 

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So the 4th gen springs can work on 3rd gen?

Don't mean to butt in, guys. :) The other threads on this subject I've watched all seem to suggest using the 4th gen struts or shocks ONLY, and then swapping over everything from the 3rd gen struts to the 4th gen. Springs, upper mounts, bellows and what not.
I think it's because those of us who did it, went ahead and bought brand new struts (bare) and swapped over our 3rd gen pieces because that's all we had. It would be interesting to take a good used 4th gen strut and see what minimum parts need to be swapped over to make it work. I'm guessing since the basic suspension design didn't change much, a lot of parts are similar and would work together. At the very least, the upper strut mount needs to be swapped because of bolt pattern differences. Then there's the question if the 3rd gen upper mount and bearing fits into the 4th gen upper spring seat.

For brakes, you can't always go by wheel size because someone could swap 16" PT Cruiser wheels on, which have the 5x4" pattern and would throw you off if you didn't recognize them.
 

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Stuck with a 3rd Gen
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I think it's because those of us who did it, went ahead and bought brand new struts (bare) and swapped over our 3rd gen pieces because that's all we had. It would be interesting to take a good used 4th gen strut and see what minimum parts need to be swapped over to make it work. I'm guessing since the basic suspension design didn't change much, a lot of parts are similar and would work together. At the very least, the upper strut mount needs to be swapped because of bolt pattern differences. Then there's the question if the 3rd gen upper mount and bearing fits into the 4th gen upper spring seat.

For brakes, you can't always go by wheel size because someone could swap 16" PT Cruiser wheels on, which have the 5x4" pattern and would throw you off if you didn't recognize them.
I'd really like to know the answer, Dan. :) "The minimum parts needed to be swapped over" from a 3rd gen strut.

I am thinking of grabbing a pair of front struts from a 4th gen in a junkyard, then swapping over the "minimum" parts from the 3rd gen struts.

Even though I've recently put in a pair of brand new Moog front control arms on my 3rd gen, the idea of upgrading to 4th gen front suspension and braking parts hasn't died in me.
 

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You shouldn't use the 4th gen spring, it almost certainly has a different spring rate since the 4th gen is 600lbs heavier.

Minimum parts-
4th gen spindle
4th gen strut
4th gen lower ball joint
4th gen rotor
4th gen caliper
4th gen spindle to hub bolts (they're longer than the 3rd's)


I'd strongly recommend getting the 4th gen outer tie rod ends too. I used my third gen ones for a few weeks without issue, but they don't fit properly into the aluminum spindle.

I got my struts on sale for $9 each on Rock Auto. Pick-n-Pull had a sale recently where you could of gotten the hub, spindle, and brakes for $17 a side.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
First of all thank each and everyone of you for your input. I have figured out the problem. Someone along the line put different parts on the front. The knuckles and brake parts were off what I guess you would call a second gen caravan.
 

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Stuck with a 3rd Gen
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You shouldn't use the 4th gen spring, it almost certainly has a different spring rate since the 4th gen is 600lbs heavier.

Minimum parts-
4th gen spindle
4th gen strut
4th gen lower ball joint
4th gen rotor
4th gen caliper
4th gen spindle to hub bolts (they're longer than the 3rd's)


I'd strongly recommend getting the 4th gen outer tie rod ends too. I used my third gen ones for a few weeks without issue, but they don't fit properly into the aluminum spindle.

I got my struts on sale for $9 each on Rock Auto. Pick-n-Pull had a sale recently where you could of gotten the hub, spindle, and brakes for $17 a side.
Edy, I wonder where you got the 600 figure from? :)

I checked Wikipedia--it is the only source that I have access to. 3rd gen Chrysler Town and Country LWB curb weight: 3951 lbs; 4th gen TC LWB curb weight: 4239 lbs. Difference: 288 lbs!

It is NOT 600! :)

Also checked 3rd gen DGC. LWB: 3680 lbs. 4th gen: no figure! So impossible to compare.

But it does seem that the 3rd gen TC LWB is several hundred pounds heavier than the 3rd gen DGC LWB: 3951 vs 3680. 271 lbs, to be exact! Too much sound deadening material in the TC? :)

A different subject: you trust a shock that costs only $9!? :)

I'm not saying the more expensive, the better, but sometimes, there is something fishy--maybe, extremely fishy--in an outrageously low price like that! Don't you think so?

To the OP, apologies for butting in and having possibly jacked your thread--hijacked or messed up in other ways! :)
 

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3rd Gen Plebeian
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Maybe closer to 500lbs on a 1997 DGC vs a 2007 DGC, that's still a significant change in spring rate and the 4th gen strut has a longer stroke as well. You don't even want to use the spring off another similar van, Chrysler lists almost 20 different front spring part numbers for 3rd gen vans, all designed for a very specific weight.

They were Gabriels on "Wholesaler Closeout". They are temporary, the entire strut assembly is going in the trash as soon as I finish building my coilovers.
 
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