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Would you sell it cheap? Not sure how good they are yet...:blink:
I'm not sure either, so I can give it to you for free. I can even toss a free shipping. All you have to pay is a nominal handling fee of $50.00 USD.

Have you noticed that my filter looks awfully similar to REVOLUTIONary2B's filter?
 

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I'm not sure either, so I can give it to you for free. I can even toss a free shipping. All you have to pay is a nominal handling fee of $50.00 USD

Have you noticed that my filter looks awfully similar to REVOLUTIONary2B's filter?
Handling fee seems high.
 

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Handling fee seems high.
Better get LEVY to send that out right away before Hurricane Harvey causes a B2 to be airborne. :coffeecup
 

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I love oil filters threads!
 

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Question: Does anybody really believe ..........

Does anybody really believe that the black nitrile anti drainback valve on oil filters actually retains oil above the filter for any length of time, like say a day?

The last couple of times that I have changed oil for the Jeep, there has been no deluge of oil coming out when I remove the filter. The filter mounts horizontal. That's not a FRAM filter that so many are critical of, it's a Mopar filter made by WIX, the standard for the industry, apparently.

The silicone anti drainback valves should perform better, but then again it's still a pretty simple design, depending on the presence of oil above and gravity to work as a check valve. For a filter mounted vertical, the results may be better, or appear to be better, at least the filter and a little above it will be full.

What do you think based on your experience?
 

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Does anybody really believe that the black nitrile anti drainback valve on oil filters actually retains oil above the filter for any length of time, like say a day?

The last couple of times that I have changed oil for the Jeep, there has been no deluge of oil coming out when I remove the filter. The filter mounts horizontal. That's not a FRAM filter that so many are critical of, it's a Mopar filter made by WIX, the standard for the industry, apparently.

The silicone anti drainback valves should perform better, but then again it's still a pretty simple design, depending on the presence of oil above and gravity to work as a check valve. For a filter mounted vertical, the results may be better, or appear to be better, at least the filter and a little above it will be full.

What do you think based on your experience?
Back when I still had our 1998 DGC Sport I noticed some filters caused a dramatic amount of valve train clatter on cold start while others didn't; I finally identified a filter which allowed the engine to start quietly, regardless of how long the van had sat since it has previously been run, the Motorcraft FL-1A. I have never researched what type of ADV was in that filter, but it always worked and there was always a pretty fair "deluge" of oil splashing all over the place whenever I'd change that filter.

Filters which caused clatter:
  • Denso "First Time Fit"
  • Mobil 1 M1-204
  • Mobil 1 M1-301
  • Bosch 3500
  • NAPA Gold FIL 1085
  • NAPA Gold FIL 1068
 

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FYI as of 9/14/2017 Walmart.com is listing the Motorcraft FL-1A for $3.16 online, free in-store pickup. I was just in the store last night and they wanted $3.97 for it, so I'll buy online, pickup in store and save a few cents. BTW that FL-1A is HUGE. Hello 15k oil change intervals!
 

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FYI as of 9/14/2017 Walmart.com is listing the Motorcraft FL-1A for $3.16 online, free in-store pickup. I was just in the store last night and they wanted $3.97 for it, so I'll buy online, pickup in store and save a few cents. BTW that FL-1A is HUGE. Hello 15k oil change intervals!
A bigger filter won't prevent oil from degrading.
 

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Latent car nut
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I meant degradation from heat, friction, condensation, blow-by contamination, etc., not time.
I guess I'm not following you, none of those things will cause much of an issue for a top quality synthetic oil used in a 15,000 OCI environment, doubly so because each of our vans would have required at least one make-up quart by the 10,000 mile mark (I'm SWAGing most engines will fall in this category) which helps refresh the additive package.
 

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Agreed, but top quality synthetic oil is good for at least two years.
I guess I'm not following you, none of those things will cause much of an issue for a top quality synthetic oil used in a 15,000 OCI environment, doubly so because each of our vans would have required at least one make-up quart by the 10,000 mile mark (I'm SWAGing most engines will fall in this category) which helps refresh the additive package.
No, I think it's me who's not following you. When you say "good for at least two years", do you mean two years regardless of mileage? I do 40,000km in two years.
 

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No, I think it's me who's not following you. When you say "good for at least two years", do you mean two years regardless of mileage? I do 40,000km in two years.
I change my oil on my 2015 at around 11,000 km mark. I could probably go to 15,000. I don't think any .member here would go 40,000 km on one oil change unless they wanted to trash the engine.

I think the comment about 2 years would be if you didn't drive much you could leave the oil in for two years before changing it.
 

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No, I think it's me who's not following you. When you say "good for at least two years", do you mean two years regardless of mileage? I do 40,000km in two years.
Ahhh, now I see the disconnect. My original comment was "two years" within the context of a 15,000 mile OCI.
 

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When you say "good for at least two years", do you mean two years regardless of mileage? I do 40,000km in two years.
40,000 km (25,000 miles) isn't out of reach for a high quality synthetic oil, depends on your fuel consumption and also whether you live in Europe or North America. Take a look at this article: http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29117/oil-change-intervals
Engine fuel efficiency is perhaps the most directly correlated factor to the life of the engine oil. It is improved by combustion efficiency, which can determine the type and amount of particles that are blown by the piston rings. Piston “blowby” is usually the primary source for ingression of contaminants into the oil. This can include dirt, water, soot, fuel, nitrogen oxide (NOx) and partially burned hydrocarbons (HC). Not only does the combustion efficiency play a role, but other engine design factors such as seal efficiency, temperature control and emissions control methods influence the type and concentration of contaminants in the oil.
While engine oil has the potential to become contaminated by several external conditions, any factor that influences fuel efficiency also affects the life of the oil. Lower fuel efficiency implies that your engine is not operating at an optimal state, which forces it to work harder. As a result, your engine oil is also working harder. Some of these fuel-efficiency factors include steep roads, high loads, stop-and-go driving, lugging and even the style of driving.
Take a look at what the Europeans say: http://www.smseuropean.com/porsche.htm
Cayman S (since Model Year 2006)
Engine oil 20,000 miles or every 2 years
Amsoil 25,000 mile oil change: http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-category/25000-mile-oil-change/

Shocking isn't it and here I am sticking with conventional oil and a 8 to 10 thousand km OCI. Anyway, lying under a vehicle doing an oil and filter change is one of life's greatest experiences isn't it? The engine always works better afterward and you can rest easy knowing it is being well cared for and dependable. :)
 

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To each his own.
I always buy only WIX filters and have never been disappointed with their quality.
 
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