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So, what filter do you recommend for the 3.8? I have been using the black box Bosch 3402 for years...no problems. Anything better?
I found the Bosch filters did not have the ability to prevent drainback of the oil; regardless of whether you're talking about the smaller 3402 or the larger 3500 (the FL-1A size). I found the Ford Motorcraft filers were much better at preventing drainback which caused a significant amount of cold-start clatter in our about half of our 3.8 liter engines.
 

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I found the Bosch filters did not have the ability to prevent drainback of the oil; regardless of whether you're talking about the smaller 3402 or the larger 3500 (the FL-1A size). I found the Ford Motorcraft filers were much better at preventing drainback which caused a significant amount of cold-start clatter in our about half of our 3.8 liter engines.
That is funny..they used to be marketed for having the silicone anti-drainback valve, being one of the best on the market...maybe this is when they were made by champion. perhaps I will go for the K&N filter, if it rates well. Not the fancy 13 dollar one with a nut on it. The black Pro Series for 6.69 at AZ.

You recommend the FL-300 then?

What about a Mobil m1204?
 

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That is funny..they used to be marketed for having the silicone anti-drainback valve, being one of the best on the market...maybe this is when they were made by champion. perhaps I will go for the K&N filter, if it rates well. Not the fancy 13 dollar one with a nut on it. The black Pro Series for 6.69 at AZ.

You recommend the FL-300 then?

What about a Mobil m1204?
Just because a filter has a silicone anti drain back valve doesn't mean it's effective; on our engines which were prone to cold start clatter, I tried a bunch of filters and no filter other than the Motorcraft kept them quiet. I ended up using the Motorcraft FL-1A on all of our vans, if for no other reason than it was cheap, easily available, and my UOA results came back stellar.

Here's a couple of shots of some of the filters I tried:



Links to the full-sized shots:
 

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FWIW, I use the STP S16 oil filter on my '99 GV with the 3.8 engine. I've never had had cold engine clatter with it. I was reading my owners manual the other day and discovered that the factory recommended oil change interval was 7,500 miles, unless driven under severe (dusty, frequent short trips, lots of heavy towing, etc.) conditions. I change it a lot more frequently than that, though!
 

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FWIW, I use the STP S16 oil filter on my '99 GV with the 3.8 engine. I've never had had cold engine clatter with it. I was reading my owners manual the other day and discovered that the factory recommended oil change interval was 7,500 miles, unless driven under severe (dusty, frequent short trips, lots of heavy towing, etc.) conditions. I change it a lot more frequently than that, though!
Yes, the factory OCI is 7,500 miles and the Oil Filter Change Interval is 15,000 miles.

FWIW, I ran OCIs of ten to twelve thousand miles with Mobil 1 and the UOAs I had sent out said the interval was, if anything conservative; said another way, changing conventional oil in less than 7,500 miles is pretty much a waste of money.
 

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I switched to synthetic last year and decided on a 7,500 mile OCI. It's a short-distance commuter the majority of the time, as in a <2 mile trip each way to and from the local Transit Center where the wife catches her bus to work. I've been using the STP S16 filters and can only give them a rousing "Meh, it's a filter" rating.
 

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Why a Bosch 3500 over the 3402?
Because the 3500/FL-1A/M1-301 size is larger and I was running OCIs of up to 12,000 miles; that and I think it is always better to have a bit more oil in the system.
 

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I use Mopar FE00148 on my 2002, 2003 and 2007. It's considered Mopars equivalent for Ford products using FL-1a filters, but was specified on Chrysler products over the years as well. It's a large filter, same size as the FL-1a. The ones I buy are made by WIX with the bypass valve located in the base (versus cap), with a nitrile (versus silicone) anti-drainback valve. Less than $5.00 at the Dealership (even less if they buy in bulk).

The FL-1as are made by Purolator and have the Purolator string around the filter media. I cut one apart a few years back. They have the bypass valve located at the base and have a nitrile anti-drainback valve.

Bypass valves located at the base tend to be a more substantial design than those located at the cap end plus the oil doesn't pass around the dirty filter.
 

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I had switched over from PH-16 to FL-1A, but between the extra inch or so for the oil cooler+extra 2"? for the longer case+a newly minted driver taking road dips too quickly, I have had to replace one that was so deformed that only ~ 2" of the gasket was touching the mount(thank goodness the filter case took one for the team and crumpled, the mountung nipple on the oil cooler seems to have escaped unscathed) and will have to replace the replacement as he has a nice little dimple in that one. I assume the FL-300 would give the advantage of the neoprene, base mounted bypass valve, at a shorter, more forgiving profile?
 

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I had switched over from PH-16 to FL-1A, but between the extra inch or so for the oil cooler+extra 2"? for the longer case+a newly minted driver taking road dips too quickly, I have had to replace one that was so deformed that only ~ 2" of the gasket was touching the mount(thank goodness the filter case took one for the team and crumpled, the mountung nipple on the oil cooler seems to have escaped unscathed) and will have to replace the replacement as he has a nice little dimple in that one. I assume the FL-300 would give the advantage of the neoprene, base mounted bypass valve, at a shorter, more forgiving profile?
I don't understand; the FL-1A on our Gen 4 with the 3.8 liter engine had its lowest point well above forward body work and the oil pan; how the heck did you end up bashing in your filter without significant damage to body and engine?
 

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Good question! I will have to check/send pix!
 

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On our 3.3's and 3.8's the "1A's" hang below the pan about 1-1/2" and seem to be in harms way. I could see a filter getting whacked.
I switched to the PH8 size and they work fine.
There is a large amount of info online about filter quality. A few filters are unworthy. Many regular stocked brands do just fine. Inform yourself.
Champ industries made Wal-Mart filters and they were fine. They seem to be using multiple vendors now. Be careful.
Change your fluids (engine and transmission!) often enough, and many problems will be avoided.
Cheers
 

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So I tried FL-1As on my vans and I did not experience any reduction in motor noise at startup relative to the small stock-size filters I'd been using prior. Both of these vans have also had recent oil pan gasket replacements WITH replacing the pickup tube O-ring and there was no change. One was installed by me, the other was installed by a professional shop. The startup noise is random; sometimes the first start of the morning has no noise, and then 5 minutes later a restart has noise. So perhaps there's something else in the system that's allowing oil to drain out of the supply lines? I also test every single filter drainback valve before I install it and I've never seen a failure regardless of brand.

Just FWIW.
 

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So I tried FL-1As on my vans and I did not experience any reduction in motor noise at startup relative to the small stock-size filters I'd been using prior. Both of these vans have also had recent oil pan gasket replacements WITH replacing the pickup tube O-ring and there was no change. One was installed by me, the other was installed by a professional shop. The startup noise is random; sometimes the first start of the morning has no noise, and then 5 minutes later a restart has noise. So perhaps there's something else in the system that's allowing oil to drain out of the supply lines? I also test every single filter drainback valve before I install it and I've never seen a failure regardless of brand.

Just FWIW.
Definitely something else. The FL-1A was essential for keeping my van engines quiet following a cold start. I never had any start up noise when the engine was restarted within say an hour or two following shutdown.
 

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Those engines aren't suppose to be quiet per: https://www.cermastore.com/engine-noise-in-chrysler-and-dodge-vehicles-en-2.html

My 2002 3.3L was much quieter than my 2007 3.8L engine. I used Mopar FE00148 filters for the most part. FE00148 is an oversize filter intended for Fords when the FL-1A doesn't quiet them down. :)

The Chrysler Dealership actually refers to them as a Ford filter and are surprised that I use them. I use to get them for $2.50 each but they are not bulk buying them anymore. Around $4.00 now. Mine have been mostly made by WIX, with the bypass valve in the base (good), except for one batch I bought that had the bypass valve in the cap end (not as good).
 
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