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The Chrysler Dealership actually refers to them as a Ford filter and are surprised that I use them.
Apparently your Chrysler dealership has very little institutional knowledge, the FL-1A sized filter used to be the universal filter for virtually all Chrysler and Ford cars and trucks.
 

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Apparently your Chrysler dealership has very little institutional knowledge, the FL-1A sized filter used to be the universal filter for virtually all Chrysler and Ford cars and trucks.
Yes, way back when. They know that now because I told them. They said I was the only one buying the FE00148 filter. Guess everyone is using the mickey mouse filter that's called for. :) I have only one vehicle taking the FE00148 filter now, the Jeep.
 

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Thanks for the link. I've got '03 and '04 3.8L V6s with between 175k and 200k miles and they sound identical. It's interesting that the link suggests sticking lifters; I change the oil and filter every 5k, cut the filters open and there's NEVER anything in them, dropped both oil pans and they were completely clean, done used oil analyses on both and it came back clean. More likely it's that the lifters intermittently bleed down and what I'm hearing on startup is the excessive lash before they refill.
 

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I use the FL1As and maybe ONCE or TWICE each winter in below zero weather I get some clatter when I start my van. It sits outside. I use Mobile1 and went from a regular Motorcraft filter to a Fram synthetic filter after reading many good reviews about the low micron filtering. I also use half a quart of marvel mystery oil at my oil change and use the other half if I need a top off. My van rarely uses any oil. My oil stays clean and my van runs strong.
 

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I 'always' used Fram for many years, until about 12 years ago when it was found that they have gone "CHEAP" on making them. I have cut many filters apart and was surprised at the cheapness of the Fram. I used to buy them by the case and used them on everything, but NEVER AGAIN.
+1 on the WIX filters, and "NEVER AGAIN FRAM." WIX are mfr's. of many other brands, as well as marketing with their own logo. Better quality, and available inexpensively at most all auto parts stores.
 

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+1 on the WIX filters, and "NEVER AGAIN FRAM." WIX are mfr's. of many other brands, as well as marketing with their own logo. Better quality, and available inexpensively at most all auto parts stores.
Frams are fine filters, ask Honda. I see the PH (Extra Guard) model is getting a silicone anti-drain back valve now (red vs black). The box will say "Improved" per https://www.fram.com/products/consumer-products/oil-filters/fram-extra-guardsup-sup-oil-filter/

The Fram TG (Tough Guard) model is my Fram favorite. It has great filtration and has a silicone (red) anti-drain back valve per https://www.fram.com/products/consumer-products/oil-filters/fram-tough-guardsup-sup-oil-filter/

The Fram Ultra Synthetic is built like a tank, per https://www.fram.com/products/consumer-products/oil-filters/fram-ultra-synthetic-oil-filter/ . It's expensive, but should be good for a couple oil changes. It has metal end caps versus fiber end caps. When thinking fiber end caps, think fiber gluing better to cellulose filter media than metal gluing to anything cellulose, so all is good there.,

But ........ one has to listen to Fram bashers as they know what they are talking about per https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/eating-crow-fram-oil-filters-and-my-visit-to-frams-r-d-facility-in-dayton-ohio.1358/

I like the WIX filter, with the bypass valve in the base, but find their black nitrile anti drain back valve not that great when the filter is mounted horizontally. The oil will leak by it in a day or so. Perhaps they are all that way, not mean't to be a long term solution.

. .
 

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I usually get my oil changed at a local dealer for $21.95 and they always seem to do a good job. (No long waits, friendly service etc.)

This time I did it myself to save some time and I went to Wal-Mart to purchase my oil and filter. While looking at the four or five kinds of Fram filters they seem to only have a 94-96% Single or Multi-pass efficiency. I then picked up a "Super Tech" filter, distributed for Wal-Mart, and they claim a 98-99% efficiency. The cost was only $2.07 and it's actually stamped "Made in the USA". Am I the best shopper ever or is this the most stupid move I could have made?

Any thought?
Fram filters are junk use most par or wix
 

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Having read the post, I’m not as impressed as the folks who went to visit, but I’ve done a lot of plant visits, and more than a few dog and pony shows (that’s the presentation they saw).

The bit about a cardboard end cap having a matching expansion coefficient and therefore being a good thing ... they got bamboozled. ... the expansion coefficient isn’t a key parameter, and it has to stay attached to a steel base so shifting the stress from the mismatch away from the flexibile pleats to a flat paperboard end cap only guaranteed the point of failure will be planar shear at or in the paperboard end cap. The dominant catastrophic failure mode for all the oil filter samples I’ve seen on line is a separation at the end cap.

For the cardboard end caps the failure seems to be the end cap distorting allowing or causing the pleated element to separate from the end cap and opening a large path that bypasses the filter material. A second failure mode occurs when the cardboard isn’t stiff enough to retain the bypass filter allowing it to shift and/or open at a low pressure.

For steel end caps the failures seem to be either sealant distribution at the end cap such that some pleats were never anchored to the end cap and they distort opening a large gap to bypass the filter material - or no overlap of the start/stop pleats allowing them to pull away from each other and gapping at the end cap. (Mid element fluid pressure tends to collapse them together)

The silicone drain back valve instead of a nitrile rubber drainback valve is only a factor after the filter is in service for enough hours for the nitrile rubber to distort. With a cardboard end cap that means the advantage is that unfiltered oil is delivered more quickly after an engine start with an old oil filter, It’s better than a delayed start to delivering unfiltered oil with an old filter, but that’s not really ideal.

Filter media area which tends to set the total particle capture capacity before the filter bypasses is more important than 96% vs 98% single pass efficiency. Filter media is a felted material with random fiber orientation. There will always be larger pores that bypass small particles. Oil is recirculated so much that what sets the particulate content for the circulating fluid is what’s left after many passes. As soon as the backpressure from the media plugging opens the bypass it’s terrible. A high single pass efficiency achieved by using a more dense paper Isn’t the ideal answer.

So, imho the “use the Ford 1A” size filter is the best 1st step. For any given construction a larger filter element has a larger particulate capacity. So if you like Motorcraft filters then buy a 1A. If you think the Motorcraft drainback valve isn’t good enough buy something else. If you like Mobil 1 filters, then get a Mobil 210. If you are less price sensitive then the Wix brand name instead of one of the many they make for other labels If you like Framm then buy their Ford 1A size filter. Whatever the given build style’s underlying performance is, the filter will give better service with an element roughly twice as large. The cost to the user is another 10 oz of oil at each oil change and a modest incremental price difference in some/most brands.
 
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