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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, I've seen a lot of posts about this issue. I think I've followed the advice on here, but would someone chime in and "look over my shoulder" on this? I'm tired so I get really wordy, I hope someone will wade through all of this to help me. Thanks

2008 T&C 3.3 flex fuel

Just like someone else described, I had been driving the van for half an hour, turned it off for five minutes and then when I turned it back on it had the CEL and was running very rough. Then on the nervous drive home it stopped happening.
This was a couple days ago and it's happened since then the same way.

P Codes are:
0302
0202
0302 (maybe I wrote one down wrong, I didn't remember there being a duplicate)

Presumably unrelated codes are: C2205 and C1032

I tried the long screwdriver trick and sure enough when it starts running rough that's the issue - #2 isn't working. Haha, that sounds like constipation. But I digress.

I pulled the plenum, undid the tape and a neighbor and I checked the two wires to #2 for continuity while moving and twisting and jostling them A LOT. There was no problem according to the multimeter. The wires were stiff in some places but nothing was REALLY bad or visibly melted or broken.
Since that didn't yield results I tried a noid light. It only has 8 options in it and the Bosch is the closest to fitting the van's plug so I kinda forced it on. With all of the plugs in the harness (including to the coil) unplugged the van tries to crank over and over and over again and the light blinked regularly during that time.

Since it had been hours since I'd driven it, the van was no longer in the window of failure anymore so I put it all back together and let it run in my driveway for half an hour. When I restarted it I was able to replicate the failure so I quickly took off the plenum and put the light on. The first time I still had some of the pigtails connected so the van was getting spark and backfiring and the light flashed regularly. I unplugged all the connections and tried it again the light turned on regularly.

So it looks like I have a bad injector, right? Does that make sense with the "injector open" code and the behavior I described?

Also, I understand that with some GM cars there's a different way the car handles fuel injection based on if the car is running on its own or not-- could that be the case here? As in: since it doesn't really run well with the plenum and all those connections pulled off-- am I not getting an accurate "read" from the light?

Thanks all, I appreciate someone double-checking me here. I'm going to go over to RockAuto right now and get an injector on its way just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well I'll be experimenting today and we'll find out if you can get the same symptom from just a bad injector. As I've been waiting to get this resolved I've discovered that if I open the hood and let the engine completely cool I don't seem to have it act up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That was the fix! So FYI it is possible to get all the symptoms of the bad wires that most people report yet it still be an injector. Someone speculated that it does it only while hot because heat = pressure and maybe there's something that was getting clogged in there until the pressure backed off of the nozzle.
I could have tested that by releasing the pressure while it was still hot but I didn't. Also, if that was the case maybe some fuel injector cleaner could have done the trick too.
Who knows? $35 on RockAuto
 

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Hey you stuck with it and fixed it. Congrats. Any day I read about somebody keeping money in their wallet and not handing it over to Chrysler is a good day. The fuel injector wire harness issue you talk about is relative to primarily early and mid 4th generation vans (2001-2004) because the harness was routed too close to the exhaust manifold. That's not to say there couldn't be an injector wire issue on any van.
 

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That was the fix! So FYI it is possible to get all the symptoms of the bad wires that most people report yet it still be an injector. Someone speculated that it does it only while hot because heat = pressure and maybe there's something that was getting clogged in there until the pressure backed off of the nozzle.
I could have tested that by releasing the pressure while it was still hot but I didn't. Also, if that was the case maybe some fuel injector cleaner could have done the trick too.
Who knows? $35 on RockAuto
Just because yours was a clogged injector doesn't mean everyone else is wrong.

Glad you fixed yours by replacing an injector, but that doesn't necessarily means that is the only possibility.

Again, glad it worked for you.
 

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...That's not to say there couldn't be an injector wire issue on any van.
And there may be an issue emerging with the early 5th Gen vans (2008 thru 2010).

I recently saw a post on another forum about two connector that can get wet potentially causing serious corrosion to the connector contacts. The connectors are both ten pin and are located near the intake.

For details see this thread: EGR valve P0404 starting at post #4.

The circuits that run thru the connectors are as follows:

EGR SIGNAL
MAP SIGNAL
ECT SIGNAL
EGR CONTROL
INJECTOR 2 CONTROL
INJECTOR 4 CONTROL
COIL 1 CONTROL
COIL 2 CONTROL
COIL 3 CONTROL
GROUND

and

FUSED ASD OUTPUT
INJECTOR 1 CONTROL
INJECTOR 3 CONTROL
INJECTOR 5 CONTROL
INJECTOR 6 CONTROL
SENSOR GROUND
5 VOLT SUPPLY
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just because yours was a clogged injector doesn't mean everyone else is wrong.

Glad you fixed yours by replacing an injector, but that doesn't necessarily means that is the only possibility.

Again, glad it worked for you.
I'm not sure how you read that message (that I said or implied that everyone else was wrong) into what I wrote, but thanks, I'm glad I got it fixed too.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey you stuck with it and fixed it. Congrats. Any day I read about somebody keeping money in their wallet and not handing it over to Chrysler is a good day. The fuel injector wire harness issue you talk about is relative to primarily early and mid 4th generation vans (2001-2004) because the harness was routed too close to the exhaust manifold. That's not to say there couldn't be an injector wire issue on any van.
Ahh, that's helpful. I really should have done everything in the opposite order of troubleshooting-- noid light first, then go from there, instead of cutting off all that tape. Hopefully I'll remember that for next time
 
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