The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 12 RT model that I have had for about 16 months. The vehicle is fully loaded from factory with all the bells and whistles from RSE, to dual climate, heated seats all around, heated steering wheel, foot adjust, air suspension and tow package. All has been well until about a 3 weeks ago. I drove to dinner and parked. After about a 45 minute stay, I went to van to find stone dead. Odd as battery is around 12 months old and showed no signs of issues. Even a faulty TIPM fuel pump issue could not drain a charged battery in that time. Went to jump start and put severe strain on other vehicle just connecting cables. Major draw and speculate easily 75+ amps just trying to charge battery from other vehicle. Regardless, Hot 0awg jumper cables and she fired up. Was able to get home where I placed on a 3 amp trickle over night. Battery was fully topped off and good and has been at 12.7V or higher since. Not a single issue since and I was never able to diagnose the draw. This morning I remote started, went to van and upon entry noticed no display in the cluster and no illumination of the cluster. I thought odd but had to get to work. Tach and fuel gauge worked, but no speedo or temp gauge or back lighting for the drive. Left work, started with key and the same issue. Pulled in garage and noticed no dome light if vehicle was running with door open or switch on and door closed. I rolled up windows holding the switch on the door and when the protect kicked in, the dash lit up and the dome turned on for a second. Odd... Well further diagnosis, I have found that when running the vehicle it is at 13.8 to 14.4 volts as expected. If I load the system up with front and rear blowers on high, steering wheel and seat heat on, the dash and dome lights work again. Using a DMM, I found that they only function when key is on and vehicle running is if voltage is under 13 volts. The moment voltage at battery reads 13.1, they again turn off. Key on and no start, they work as expected. I am a certified 12V specialist by trade, but I am lost as to why normal operating voltage would cause a circuit to shut down. I understand and work with Lin Bus and Can Bus integration all the time, but this does not seem to be a communication failure.

Sorry for the book, but wanted the details layed out. Any insight would be appreciated. I did disconnect the battery for 15 minutes and no change. I also discharged by placing +and - together when disconnected for over 10 minutes. No change other than dropping voltage below 13.0 volts and then it is as if nothing wrong.

Thanks
Dave
AKA Lisnup
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I have a 12 RT model that I have had for about 16 months. The vehicle is fully loaded from factory with all the bells and whistles from RSE, to dual climate, heated seats all around, heated steering wheel, foot adjust, air suspension and tow package. All has been well until about a 3 weeks ago. I drove to dinner and parked. After about a 45 minute stay, I went to van to find stone dead. Odd as battery is around 12 months old and showed no signs of issues. Even a faulty TIPM fuel pump issue could not drain a charged battery in that time. Went to jump start and put severe strain on other vehicle just connecting cables. Major draw and speculate easily 75+ amps just trying to charge battery from other vehicle. Regardless, Hot 0awg jumper cables and she fired up. Was able to get home where I placed on a 3 amp trickle over night. Battery was fully topped off and good and has been at 12.7V or higher since. Not a single issue since and I was never able to diagnose the draw. This morning I remote started, went to van and upon entry noticed no display in the cluster and no illumination of the cluster. I thought odd but had to get to work. Tach and fuel gauge worked, but no speedo or temp gauge or back lighting for the drive. Left work, started with key and the same issue. Pulled in garage and noticed no dome light if vehicle was running with door open or switch on and door closed. I rolled up windows holding the switch on the door and when the protect kicked in, the dash lit up and the dome turned on for a second. Odd... Well further diagnosis, I have found that when running the vehicle it is at 13.8 to 14.4 volts as expected. If I load the system up with front and rear blowers on high, steering wheel and seat heat on, the dash and dome lights work again. Using a DMM, I found that they only function when key is on and vehicle running is if voltage is under 13 volts. The moment voltage at battery reads 13.1, they again turn off. Key on and no start, they work as expected. I am a certified 12V specialist by trade, but I am lost as to why normal operating voltage would cause a circuit to shut down. I understand and work with Lin Bus and Can Bus integration all the time, but this does not seem to be a communication failure.

Sorry for the book, but wanted the details layed out. Any insight would be appreciated. I did disconnect the battery for 15 minutes and no change. I also discharged by placing +and - together when disconnected for over 10 minutes. No change other than dropping voltage below 13.0 volts and then it is as if nothing wrong.

Thanks
Dave
AKA Lisnup
The door panel mounted illumination works regardless, so it is obviously a different circuit. The overhead dome lights and Halo lighting cease to function when the cluster does. More info does not hurt.:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
140 amp hour battery at full charge would take 12 to 14 hours to discharge. I tested battery outside of vehicle with a 12 amp load and after 1 hour went from 12.7 to 12.5. thinking diode in alternator as that is the only thing that could possibly draw the amperage it was.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top