I have a code now P0480, what should I do to resolve this problem. Also how do I reset or delete the codes?
petes66
This seems to be the best thread to asking this in. 2005 T&C 3.3 88K
Here is the time line:
Van overheats for wife.
Next day wont start. Check Engine light on, multiple codes: P0480, P0700, P0562
Jumped it, Volt meter test shows alternator putting out 12.5
Pulled alt and had it tested, showed as bad and it was replaced under lifetime warranty.
I drove the van for next 2 days, sluggish to turn over.
Had battery checked by 2 parts stores, both showed low cranking amps in 5 year old battery in Fl.
Replaced battery. Codes went away.
Check engine light came on and I noticed the AC was not as cold and engine was getting hot.
Couldnt find testing process for relay that I could understand, ordered cooling fan relay
turned off AC and drove it for 2 days with no ac, engine temps stayed in center of gauge.
Installed relay (Dorman), replaced cooling fan circuit fuse.
Research shows cooling fans run at 30% until an upper limit temp is reached and/or AC clutch is energized at which time fans go to 100%.
Fuse wont blow at low speed, when AC is engaged the fuse blows after 5 mins (approx).
Ordered fan assembly(Dorman) and installed , replaced fuse
Drove van twice for 10 mins with AC on. No problems with fuse.\
Next day drove the van with AC and the fuse blew in 10 mins.
Please see attached circuit. Not sure where to test for the fuse blowing at 100 % fan speed. ??????
No need to worry about my feelings if I am wrong anywhere.
Just want to resolve this so my wife has ac.
Note: even with no fans, without AC engaged I was able to drive around in traffic and the temp never got over halfway.
Thanks Brian
Here is the time line:
Van overheats for wife.
Next day wont start. Check Engine light on, multiple codes: P0480, P0700, P0562
Jumped it, Volt meter test shows alternator putting out 12.5
Pulled alt and had it tested, showed as bad and it was replaced under lifetime warranty.
I drove the van for next 2 days, sluggish to turn over.
Had battery checked by 2 parts stores, both showed low cranking amps in 5 year old battery in Fl.
Replaced battery. Codes went away.
Check engine light came on and I noticed the AC was not as cold and engine was getting hot.
Couldnt find testing process for relay that I could understand, ordered cooling fan relay
turned off AC and drove it for 2 days with no ac, engine temps stayed in center of gauge.
Installed relay (Dorman), replaced cooling fan circuit fuse.
Research shows cooling fans run at 30% until an upper limit temp is reached and/or AC clutch is energized at which time fans go to 100%.
Fuse wont blow at low speed, when AC is engaged the fuse blows after 5 mins (approx).
Ordered fan assembly(Dorman) and installed , replaced fuse
Drove van twice for 10 mins with AC on. No problems with fuse.\
Next day drove the van with AC and the fuse blew in 10 mins.
Please see attached circuit. Not sure where to test for the fuse blowing at 100 % fan speed. ??????
No need to worry about my feelings if I am wrong anywhere.
Just want to resolve this so my wife has ac.
Note: even with no fans, without AC engaged I was able to drive around in traffic and the temp never got over halfway.
Thanks Brian
Attachments
This is the 40A fuse #27, correct? I'm assuming that it was blown before you replaced the relay, so do you know when it first blew?
Yes, #27. Cant tell you if it was blown prior to relay replacement, I just didnt think to look at the fuse (it had been a long week!)
have you insured that "Radiator Fan Relay" is in good contact with the metal cross-member
It is sitting flat on crossmember, I did not use a dielectric(?) grease on it.
I was thinking along the same lines, but it sounded like he was saying that the fuse was blown before he replaced the relay. And that would presumably mean the fuse blew with the OEM relay still factory-riveted in place. But perhaps that's not the case, and hopefully he will post back and tell us exactly what the sequence of events were.
I believe the fuse was blown with original relay in place but do NOT know for sure.
Will reinstall replay with thermal grease and follow up with you guys.
THANKS Brian
Yes, #27. Cant tell you if it was blown prior to relay replacement, I just didnt think to look at the fuse (it had been a long week!)
have you insured that "Radiator Fan Relay" is in good contact with the metal cross-member
It is sitting flat on crossmember, I did not use a dielectric(?) grease on it.
I was thinking along the same lines, but it sounded like he was saying that the fuse was blown before he replaced the relay. And that would presumably mean the fuse blew with the OEM relay still factory-riveted in place. But perhaps that's not the case, and hopefully he will post back and tell us exactly what the sequence of events were.
I believe the fuse was blown with original relay in place but do NOT know for sure.
Will reinstall replay with thermal grease and follow up with you guys.
THANKS Brian
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
