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youtube.com/sideburns2009
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:hi2: What are symptoms of a failing or worn/gummed up solenoid packs? Or common ones should I say. Anything in particular? ex:delayed/hesitant upshifts, shuddering, etc. I think this would be a good thread to start so people that believe their solenoid pack may be the culprit of their tranny problems can come and read about common problems and issues with them when they are failing or gummy on the inside. Any suggestions or thoughts are much appreciated. :ThumbsUp:

:thewave:
 

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You will get a check engine light and 2 codes: one will be P0700, transmission controller and one other, can't remember number, which indicates a solenoid valve not responding to command from the transmission controller.
 

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Why are so many solenoid packs being replaced? They seem to be blamed frequently for leaks, and get replaced because of that. Otherwise maybe they are often replaced needlessly.
I checked under my van today after a 1 hour trip and no leak. Ambient temperature was +4 C. If the temperature were -4C, there would be a slight leak during cool down. During the Winter I lose 0.5 to 1.0 liter due to this leak, no loss during the Summer. Go figure. Transmission works fine and no codes are showing up.
 

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You will get a check engine light and 2 codes: one will be P0700, transmission controller and one other, can't remember number, which indicates a solenoid valve not responding to command from the transmission controller.
P1776 Solenoid Latched in L/R position.

That's the solenoid code I have had before.:ThumbsUp:
 

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Of all the boards I've been checking on chrysler products i seems that more people on here toss a solenoid pack at every problem. In the service manual, it says how to test the solenoids using a multimeter and to use some pressure gauges. I checked with a couple reputable transmission shops and my local dodge dealer and they all say the the solenoids pack are rarely a failure. Most agree the most common problem is differential pin failure in the first few years of these generation 3 vans. They all say that planet failures are really common especially when the transmission is flushed the wrong way and any junk in the cooler ends up blocking off the planet circuits. But from what I have found out, it's not really a common problem for the solenoids to go bad. Looking even deeper into the design of the solenoids, they are nothing more than a coil of wire that makes a metal arm move to open or close a needle valve. Seems pretty simple and I would think easy to test and diagnose. Did you know, according the the shop manuals, you can make the solenoids engage with a scanner and using a pressure gauge you can see if its working?
 

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Well I wasn't trying to spark up this, I was just trying see what can go wrong with them and what symptoms show up.
 

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I see that if in the rare occasion they fail the trans just dont shift at all. According to the transmission specialists they say theres some things that have gone wrong like a bad magnetic coil winding, a failed diode and that's about it. They told me that if there's a solenoid problem it's like 99% wiring or computer problems. I'm only able to recite what I was told for what it's worth.
 

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I've read about the passages and screens in them getting gummed up. I'm guessing this would cause a restriction and cause a delayed shift or shudder or etc.
 

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I read thru the entire diagnostics for that code on Mitchell On-demand and it basically leads to a solenoid shift valve is sticking or not moving so I went to a trans web site and I see that valve is actually located in the valve body. There is no spring or anything on this valve. It looks like when the trans shifts to 2nd and higher the valve moves and the same solenoid that does L/R piston now controls torque converter lockup. Sure seems easy how it works now if I only knew how to fix them.
 

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Mine hasn't failed, it's just leaking. I don't want it continuing to leak in my garage. If I can replace it for $100, and it looks like a fairly simple job, why not? More peace of mind when I start towing with it, and less stains in my garage (or less cardboard laying around).
 

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I have some short experience with the SPs. As those who followed my posts on my leaking 99 Ltd.

First I removed the old pack and replaced just the gasket.....the leaking continued, actually got worse.
Then I replaced the pack and another gasket myself, but the leaking continued.
Finally I had a dealer replace the pack......leaking stopped.

Go figure, all I know was it worked......no leaking now. :thumb:
 

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I have some short experience with the SPs. As those who followed my posts on my leaking 99 Ltd.

First I removed the old pack and replaced just the gasket.....the leaking continued, actually got worse.
Then I replaced the pack and another gasket myself, but the leaking continued.
Finally I had a dealer replace the pack......leaking stopped.

Go figure, all I know was it worked......no leaking now. :thumb:
Yeah, that's what scares me a bit. I followed your thread and thought all was well. I didn't know it still leaked on you.

Any idea what went wrong?
 

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Yeah, that's what scares me a bit. I followed your thread and thought all was well. I didn't know it still leaked on you.

Any idea what went wrong?
Probably had something to do with torquing it down, unless he did happen to use a torque wrench. I've read the new ones have metal studs sticking out that will push into the solenoid pack once it's torqued down.
 

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I seen pictures of the solenoid pack and there are some alignment dowels that help locate the pack. there are 2 versions of the packs. The old style uses a separator plate and 2 gaskets, the new style uses just a gasket. The pictures show that the gaskets are different so you don't want to mix them up. torque on the bolts is like 105inlbs.
 

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manic,

parts man at dodge dealership told me the solenoid pack is a common problem. new one costs about $200, but the gaskets only cost $6.

regards...

dnorm
 

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a solenoid is a mechanical 'switch' operated by a coil, which becomes a magnet when voltage is applied. the coil is a very long, very thin wire wound around a form. light bulb filaments burn through, and so will the wire in a coil. an open wire will not allow current to flow... no current flow, no magnet, solenoid does not work...

dnorm
 

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a solenoid is a mechanical 'switch' operated by a coil, which becomes a magnet when voltage is applied. the coil is a very long, very thin wire wound around a form. light bulb filaments burn through, and so will the wire in a coil. an open wire will not allow current to flow... no current flow, no magnet, solenoid does not work...

dnorm
Yep. I'm not sure what's going on with mine, it's still functons but it sounds very weak when it buzzes, maybe the electromagnet is getting weak or somethings are getting clogged up.
 

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Probably had something to do with torquing it down, unless he did happen to use a torque wrench. I've read the new ones have metal studs sticking out that will push into the solenoid pack once it's torqued down.
Nope, I used a 1/4" inch torque wrench each time...... as per the manual. Mine was the second gen model as was the leaking one. No clue as to what the issue was. Just glad that the trans turned out to have a Chrysler warranty that paid for all of the repair.

I did take a lot of care cleaning off the old gasket and cleaning up the mating surfaces......still leaked
 

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sideburns,

a solenoid should not 'buzz'... if it is, it is 'ready to fail'... if it is 'buzzing', the coil is not strong enough to lock it into position, so the actuator is vibrating back and forth. it is not 'locking' into the 'on' position, so it keeps trying... (could be the 'gumming up' one mentioned, or a piece of debris blocking the valve.)

electromagnets do not 'get weak'. they work, or they fail, but if the channel for the actuator is 'gummy' or partailly blocked... i recommend you do a flush and filter (and magnet) change, and soon. pull the pan to do so, but you should look into running some solvent in the tranny for a few minutes first, something similar to 'motor flush', which i use before i change my oil and filter.

btw, guys...

the newer solenoid pack was introduced in 1999, per the dealer, and will retrofit to older transmissions... new design, same function... the differences are...

the 'spacer plate' between the solenoid pack and the tranny is discarded, so only one gasket is needed, not two...

it IS a different gasket...

i assume that the new one is cheaper to produce, and therefore may not be as high a quality unit as the old one. the new gasket is a different cutout, to match the new channels in the new unit (and the new transmissions, i suppose) to the channels in the old transmission.

there are 'placement pins' (as others earlier have said) on the solenoid pack which position it on the tranny. the older solenoid pack 'pins' pass through both gaskets and the spacer... since the spacer is not used when retrofitting, i would bet those pins are shorter...

regards...

dnorm
 
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