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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2014 T&C Touring

My coolant temps read 217° at idle and sometimes 220, if the sun is out. I live in Texas where it is hot. On the Highway it runs between 204-210°.

I feel like this is a bit too hot. Coolant is green and clear, and full. Plenty of coolant in the expansion tank as well. Any ideas?
Car Speedometer Trip computer Vehicle Odometer
 

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Here's a chart:

Font Line Material property Rectangle Parallel


Green coolant?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here's a chart:

Green coolant?
Yeah, it has green coolant in it. It is clear and not old. I just got
This van from a used car lot.
 

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2017 DGC SXT
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I recently bought a 2017 grand caravan. It has almost 105,000 miles on it. As preventative maintenance (reading posts on this forum), I changed out the coolant crossover pipe and the heater hose y pipes to upgraded Dorman aluminum parts. Also changed the thermostat and changed the coolant to Prestone universal coolant while I was there. Old thermostat said motorad on it and the new one was a motorad as well.

The old coolant was pinkish in color. Before changing out the parts mentioned above, I think my van stayed right at the halfway mark on the temp gauge. I did not check the actual temp through the evic.

After I changed the parts and the coolant, I noticed the temp gauge was just slightly past half on the temp gauge at idle after a drive. Evic showed temps between 215-220 at idle after a drive.Holding the throttle at 2000 rpm caused the temp to drop rather quickly. I’m pretty sure all the air is purged out of the system. Heat blows hot.
 

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220 is still in the normal range. Beyond 224 you should watch it closely. If it touches 230, shut off immediately.

 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I recently bought a 2017 grand caravan. It has almost 105,000 miles on it. As preventative maintenance (reading posts on this forum), I changed out the coolant crossover pipe and the heater hose y pipes to upgraded Dorman aluminum parts. Also changed the thermostat and changed the coolant to Prestone universal coolant while I was there. Old thermostat said motorad on it and the new one was a motorad as well.

The old coolant was pinkish in color. Before changing out the parts mentioned above, I think my van stayed right at the halfway mark on the temp gauge. I did not check the actual temp through the evic.

After I changed the parts and the coolant, I noticed the temp gauge was just slightly past half on the temp gauge at idle after a drive. Evic showed temps between 215-220 at idle after a drive.Holding the throttle at 2000 rpm caused the temp to drop rather quickly. I’m pretty sure all the air is purged out of the system. Heat blows hot.
So most likely my temps are fine.
 

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Yes . You will know when it's boiling over. From previous posts, AC will shut off if it's running too hot. Don't sit in idle for long periods.
Yes, it will be alarming for sure. Had it happen on a 3.8L when a lower radiator hose OE spring type clamp let go. Junk stuff, those clamps. :)
Didn't seem to damage engine though, still burnt the same amount of oil. :)
 
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Without going to those lengths ...if your coolant is boiling over into your reservoir tank when you shut off the car, it is getting too hot, and needs addressed.

A hose or clamp letting go can happen on a healthy system.

In a "boil over" emergency, remember that the heater core is a secondary radiator. You can turn the heater and blower fans to high and that will add additional cooling to the engine.--- assuming you have coolant flowing.
 

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Lord help your passengers in this heat if you need to turn all vents to max heat to keep from getting to the temp danger zone. Would be a horrible time to have a broke window motor too. :p

If the A/C works when it's too hot, setting temp to about 75 and turning on the A/C will actually cool it down a touch faster. That's an idea for if it overheats in a remote area. Let it cool down first and then limp it to safety that way.
 

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2001 T&C 3.8L 182,000 miles
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My 01 sits around 220F. Never overheated on me. I did think it's kind of high as my other cars run low. If you want they have the additives that prevents boiling and lowers down the temperature up to 20F. I used it on a car that overheats all the time and it worked surprisingly. I think though it might affect your fuel economy
 

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The thermostat (and fan settings) on this vehicle is set very high, compared to other cars. If the "maker" designed the system to run at a cooler temperature, it would have specified a lower temp thermostat.

You guys are needlessly obsessing about the numbers on the screen. Look for other symptoms of "overheating".
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The thermostat (and fan settings) on this vehicle is set very high, compared to other cars. If the "maker" designed the system to run at a cooler temperature, it would have specified a lower temp thermostat.

You guys are needlessly obsessing about the numbers on the screen. Look for other symptoms of "overheating".
when you open the hood the hood stand isn’t supposed to burn your hands…. Engine runs hot but doesn’t overheat.
 

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when you open the hood the hood stand isn’t supposed to burn your hands…. Engine runs hot but doesn’t overheat.
???? Why not?
If you touch the roof of the car on a sunny day,,it will burn your hands
If you touch the exhaust, it will burn you too.

Car is working normally.

There are videos where people can cook dinner inside their engine bay - it is normal for the radiator fan to pull hot air into the engine compartment from the radiator. That's how the radiator cools the engine- transferring heat to the air that blows back into the engine compartment. Standing still or going backwards is when you are making the cooling system work maximally and least efficiently..
 

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Lord help your passengers in this heat if you need to turn all vents to max heat to keep from getting to the temp danger zone. Would be a horrible time to have a broke window motor too. :p

If the A/C works when it's too hot, setting temp to about 75 and turning on the A/C will actually cool it down a touch faster. That's an idea for if it overheats in a remote area. Let it cool down first and then limp it to safety that way.
Typically in those scenarios, the system has overheated, and you are just trying to mitigate, possibly avoid, the damage as much as possible using the heater as axillary trick. At this point, coolant is likely already boiling and creating steam and dumping out the overflow tank.

Shutting the engine off, stops all coolant flow and the coolant inside the galleys turns to high pressure steam.. You pray that the gaskets down blow, or things don't warp. You have no choice but to let it cool gradually and hope for the best..
 

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I think after towing if it overheats you're supposed to put it in neutral to cool it down especially in the turbo cars. But if it's smoking like mad crazy and looks like it's on fire then it's better to turn it off because all the water is going to boil out anyways. One of our second town and countries ran hot going up the hills for some reason. I did notice that these Chryslers get extremely hot under the hood compared to my other cars. I'm not sure if having a cast iron block contributes to the heat. 2001 to 2007
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
???? Why not?
If you touch the roof of the car on a sunny day,,it will burn your hands
If you touch the exhaust, it will burn you too.

Car is working normally.

There are videos where people can cook dinner inside their engine bay - it is normal for the radiator fan to pull hot air into the engine compartment from the radiator. That's how the radiator cools the engine- transferring heat to the air that blows back into the engine compartment.
Why wouldn’t they want to vent the heat out of the engine compartment, like forward instead?

also, how do plastic fuel injectors and coils withstand such high heat?
 

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Why wouldn’t they want to vent the heat out of the engine compartment, like forward instead?

also, how do plastic fuel injectors and coils withstand such high heat?
When the radiator is in front of the car, the fans have to turn air toward the engine because they can not push air forward when driving forward. They can get damaged. It actually cools down the engine as well because the engine is hotter than the coolant temp. I think I did see some cars with rear engine that have the radiator in the back end. Like the Porsche, some classic old Pontiacs, mr2 and some race cars. I think they blew air away from the engine but not 100 percent sure. If you think plastic parts getting hot is crazy look at some ford's. The 6.2L diesel has plastic injectors and wires INSIDE the rocker cover drenched in hot oil. They also have a 3cly engine and the timing belt is inside the oil pan drenched in oil.
 

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Blowing air forward is counter productive and stupid. When moving at speed, that air gets dissapated quickly, but an open system is best, at the cost of aerodynamics.

There's no free lunch. The cooling system is designed for a given range of performance - go beyond that ( bigger load, hotter climate, low airflow, more HP, ...) You are going to need to compensate.

Glass reinforced nylon is no cheap polymer. Better than your cooking utensils.
 

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Blowing air forward is counter productive and stupid. When moving at speed, that air gets dissapated quickly, but an open system is best, at the cost of aerodynamics.
Interesting note, when Dodge/Ram was setting up for the NASCAR trunk series, they found they could improve the aerodynamics significantly by pushing the cooling air forward through the radiator drawing it from the bottom of the truck. Problem was at race speed it required way to much fan power to keep the air flowing for sufficient cooling.
 
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