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Hello, been awhile since i was here but Im here with a question that has me stumped. I have a 2001 T&C 3.3 2wd. It has always started fairly quickly when i turn the key, has also had a slight but negligable miss part time at low rpms but it shows a code for O2 sensor heater malfunction so i figured that was the problem but in the last month or so it has began cranking a bit longer than it should before it starts, and once yuh put it in gear and start to move it will smother out and sometimes completely die. if yuh can get by without it dieing it has a really bad eratic miss at low rpms. the only code it shows is the one for the o2 sensor heater problem. now on the older carburated engines this problem would be easily diagnosed as a vacume leak. So I bought a can of starting fluid and sprayed it around everything i could find that might have a vaccume connection or could cause a vacume leak, didnt notice any change in the running engine while i sprayed it.. I need the only other vehicle we have for doc appointments and my woman needs this T&C to drive to work so i need help ASAP if anyone can.
 

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What you're describing could be caused by probably 50 or so issues, and without further work on your part, it's nothing but guesswork. So in order to resolve the problem, you're going to need to continue to diagnose and test, and I suggest first removing and checking the condition of the spark plugs. Even if they're ok, you might get some information from what type of deposits are on them. Best to use a systematic diagnostic approach, rather than firing the parts cannon.
 

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First check the fuel pressure since a failing fuel pump could cause the symptoms. You can buy a cheap gage set at Harbor Freight. Should be >50 psig. If like my 2002 3.8L, there is a test port under the inlet air duct w/ a Schraeder fitting (like a bike tire). Next would be "no spark". Connect a clamp-on timing light to a spark plug and see if it flashes as you crank. You can buy one for $2 at a garage sale (common 1960-80's, $35 new online) or Harbor Freight's $3 inline "spark tester lamp" (I keep one in all my gas vehicles). If no spark, suspect the crank or cam sensor. You would need an O-scope to verify those signals, so most just replace one or both. Start w/ the crank sensor, which is at the very top of the timing cover (under air duct). I haven't touched the cam sensor, but must be in the side of the block near the front perhaps on rear side (access from underneath, get grubby). But, first verify they are getting the shared 8 VDC power at their connectors.
 

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Hey Bill. I'm thinkin you have the cam/crank sensor positions swapped. Cam sensor is up top, left side near the coolant thermostat. Crank sensor is right/center down below on the transmission bell housing (flex plate) towards the back. Yes/no?
 

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Yeah cvguy i cant afford to fire the parts cannon at it. Think imma loan a tool n get a fuel pressure guage and start there. It just occured to me earlier today to do that because i have owned the van near 5 years and havent changed the fuel filter and id bet it wasnt changed for atleast a few years before i got it. Im thinking due to that, that fuel pressure will be the best place to start. Thanks everyone, ill let yuh know what transpires!
 

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Agreed fuel pressure is the first thing I'd check, as it sounds similar to what I went through recently (it was the fuel pump in my case):
Obviously it could be many other things as well, but I think you're on the right track.
 
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