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Discussion Starter #1
Here is my almost factory looking aftermarket overhead custom video screen install.

DISCLAIMER:
I’m not a pro installer, so anything you see in the pics or text should not be mimicked or used as instructional material in any way. I know there were things like disconnecting the battery, ppe… and such I didn’t do at my own risk… so what, lol.

The parts I used were:
- Pyle PLVWR922 9.2” screen with IR transmitter. ($80 new shipped from Amazon)
- MyGig Lockpick V4 ($190 shipped from Amazon)
- 12’ twisted pair audio and video cable ($16 from Walmart)
- 12’ 18ga auto power and ground wire ($5 from Autozone)
- *Still on order – Boss audio TV Tuner ($90 shipped from Amazon)
- Misc. connectors (maybe $2 from my personal bench-stock)
- Krylon satin pebble and primer- Yes the rattle can. ($6 Wal…)
- Bondo Hair- ($11 from Wal…)
- Total $400. Was it worth it? This stuff is fun for me, so I’d say so.

--Pictures loaded to Photobucket in reverse order – sorry.

http://s1092.photobucket.com/albums/i415/ZCR11/

Ok, in pic 1 you can see I’m using a plastic pry-bar; these can be found at most wheel/tire shops and are used for removing center caps from alloy wheels. They are great for removing plastic interior panels with tight gaps.

Pic 2- The Lockpic. Very nice unit; no need to cut and splice any factory wiring. It has an ACC power out put wire rated at 1.5 amps, ground and a constant Batt 12 v source. Connecting is very straight forward with great instructions and color pictures. (The screen only pulls 0.9 amps)

Pic 3- I like to use a roll of household ground wire for almost anything; from tying up Christmas lights to fishing wire through tight spaces. I used a length of it to find a path over the headliner to the A-pillar then taped the AV and pwr/gnd wires to it and pulled it through.

Pic 4- The Air Bag. Be careful around this. The cover on the A-pillar is held on with two torx screws near the grab-handle and a few push clips. Make sure you route all wires away from anything connected to the airbag or its trajectory. You don’t want to get in an accident just to have the airbag blow the wiring into your head and neck. You can see in the pic I routed the wires on the other side of the existing harness with zip-ties away from the airbag.

Pic 5- Here is a pic of the unmolested screen. Always make sure all components are in good working order prior to hacking. It’s kind of hard to return something when it’s all cut up.

Pic 6- Overhead is removed simply by popping off the end panels, unplugging two connectors, removing one screw and bolt at each end, then pulling the unit down as its also held in place by four plastic push pins in the center. The storage bins are held in by four torx screws from the top.

Pic 7- The Lockpic wiring is long enough to place it just about anywhere in the dash. I chose nice padded level spot behind the glove box on the right side. I also wrapped it in felt insulation for added protection.

Pics 8-15 show the trimming, blending, paint, and fitment.
 

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Thanks for the excellent thread!!!
So I have the 2011 T & C w/ factory front rear screen (front one)
I just ordered my lock pick, do you know if it is possible to have the 2nd screen added in the rear and run it off of the lockpick? Or should I get a standalone DVD/screenw/ IR headphones and just run power to it. And it wouldn't be connected to the factory stereo system.

any thoughts or suggestions would help
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, you can run the second screen off the lockpick. The lockpic maintains the dual channel capability so your factory front screen can play a dvd from the head unit and the rear can be on sat tv (if equipped), game console or such through the aux input.
 

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Any update on how this is performing?

A few reviews of this monitor are not the best - died within a year.

I like what you have done, and am thinking of doing something similiar, just do not want to hack up some monitors which will not be reliable.

Thanks.
 
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