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Discussion Starter #141
Looks like you are right. How are you allowing for what's in the oil filter?
 

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All engines burns oil, regardless.

Some of the burned oil is replaced by fuel, combustion byproducts, water etc.

I don't believe on those kind of measurements, you are just fooling yourself, especially if any kind of oil additives are used.

Agreed, according to your records, your engine burns very little oil but, do the same measurements using manufacturer's recommended oil (not ticker) and "without" adding any oil additives and post. Oil additives thickens the oil, then if you used thicker oil to begin with, makes those measurements unreliable.

On your pictures we cannot tell what kind of oil you used. Post pics of the front of the container.

Thanks for sharing, still, with additives and whatever oil you used, seems like your engine burns very little oil.
 

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Looks like you are right. How are you allowing for what's in the oil filter?
I guess add that to what was removed.

On your pictures we cannot tell what kind of oil you used. Post pics of the front of the container
The new oil is Castrol GTX, 10W-30.
 

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Discussion Starter #146
Quote Originally Posted by LEVY
Then your engine is not only not using oil, but it is actually producing oil! :)
:thumb:
Funny!

I swear I added only the 500ml STP, but next time I'll know exactly how much I put in to start with. :cool:
My 3.3L is good but not that good. :) It takes a liter in 8,000+/- km, some of that is leaks for sure.

That STP is performing wonders Steve. :)
 

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My 3.3L is good but not that good. :) It takes a liter in 8,000+/- km, some of that is leaks for sure.

That STP is performing wonders Steve. :)
I think you should try it.

I have one lifter that always reminds me that the oil is getting thin.

(It's my "canary in the coal mine")

I add the treatment and it goes away. Sounds great to me!
 

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Discussion Starter #148
Try some 10W-40 and see what that gives you.
Or 10W-30 with a half liter (to a liter) of SAE 40.
Valvoline™ Premium Conventional monograde motor oils are formulated with advanced additive technology and highly
refined, premium quality basestocks that protect today’s engines against undesirable deposits, contamination, and viscosity
and thermal breakdown under severe service conditions. Valvoline SAE 30, SAE 40, and SAE 50 offer excellent protection to
gasoline engines operating under high temperature and heavy-duty service(hauling trailers, boats or RVs for sustained
periods).
http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/premium_conventional.pdf
 

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Try some 10W-40 and see what that gives you.
Or 10W-30 with a half liter (to a liter) of SAE 40.
LEVY would not like that.

I'm leaving the Castrol GTX, 10W-30 with no additives for at least 5000km to see what happens.

(If it starts ticking I might add something, I will say when and if....)
 

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Discussion Starter #150
LEVY would not like that.

I'm leaving the Castrol GTX, 10W-30 with no additives for at least 5000km to see what happens.

(If it starts ticking I might add something, I will say when and if....)
I'm guessing you are going to add Marvel Mystery Oil: http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/site/mmo/
When added to engine oil, Marvel reduces and prevents valve sticking and clatter by breaking down harmful deposits of carbon and sludge. Oftentimes, valve sticking can be identified by a "ticking" sound coming from the engine compartment when the engine is running. This ticking sound will increase and decrease with the speed of the engine.
Marvel fortifies the properties of motor oil, both traditional and synthetic. Marvel prevents oil breakdown caused by extreme temperatures. In addition, Marvel promotes easier cold weather starting with its extremely low pour point of (-65) Fahrenheit and ability to eliminate oil's tendency to congeal at low temperatures.
:) Just kidding, but MMO sounds good.
 

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Discussion Starter #153
No,....

I'm leaving it as is to show you guys who burns the least oil.
Don't have to convince me your engine is supercalifragilisticexpialidocious. The 3.3L engine is a winner for sure.

Back to Marvel Mystery Oil mentioned in Post #150, I'm guessing that's a 0W-30 or 0W-40 oil using Group IV base oil, based on a Pour Point of -65F. Take a look at Castrol's 0W-30 oil shown here: https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/B6D6425DB1187C8480257C12006048F5/$File/BPXE-9CXU94.pdf
It stands out compared to the other Castrol products listed for Pour Point and Viscosity. It's using a Group IV base oil and the others are using Group III??
 

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A guy in a minivan forum says that Fluid Film is the best rustproofing compound available. Is he right? :sulkoff:
Gotta love the banter. :)

I hear that minivans can get the rusties so I am thinking he's probably right. The thing about Fluid Film is it's availability throughout Canada and the US. Products like Rust Check and Krown, although well known in Canada for being good products, are not well known in the US, it seems.
I bought my first can of Fluid Film last week. I think I'm in love.

I think "that guy" is right. Rust Check is good, but Fluid Film has "wool wax" (lanolin). This is Mother Natures' solution for waterproofing. It seems to work like motorcycle chain wax.

...and it smells delicious!
 

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OK Jeepman, just for you....

I drained/changed oil+filter last week at 6,200km.

I carefully measured what I removed and what I replaced.

The red container shows what I removed from the crankcase, and the white container shows what was left after re-filling from a 5L. jug. (neither of us should forget the 500ML of STP at 2,500k)

It seems to me that this engine does not consume much oil.

(The text is from Haynes, and sorry I'm not good at posting pictures, I know they're sideways but I don't know how to fix)
OK Jeepman, I changed oil and filter last week at 5100km.

The pic on the left shows how much was left from a 5L jug when I re-filled it last time. The pic on the right shows how much I removed this time (plus filter).

I added exactly 1/2 a litre of oil (no additives) during the interval, plus 350ml of engine flush before draining (total 850ml). The usual lifter started ticking around 2500km, and the engine seemed to consume more oil than with the STP (ZDDP).

Looks like I burned less than a litre, but it burns less and doesn't tick when I put the additive at 2,500km.
 

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I bought my first can of Fluid Film last week. I think I'm in love.

I think "that guy" is right. Rust Check is good, but Fluid Film has "wool wax" (lanolin). This is Mother Natures' solution for waterproofing. It seems to work like motorcycle chain wax.

...and it smells delicious!
Did you baste your Thanksgiving turkey in it?:lol:
 

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I bought my first can of Fluid Film last week. I think I'm in love.

I think "that guy" is right. Rust Check is good, but Fluid Film has "wool wax" (lanolin). This is Mother Natures' solution for waterproofing. It seems to work like motorcycle chain wax.

...and it smells delicious!
What size can did you buy? The small aerosol or the large one gallon can?

The thing I like with fluid film is that it sticks to the metal and doesn't slide down like rust check or krown. No dripping on the driveway.
 

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Discussion Starter #160
Sounds like a Thanksgiving with Jeepman to me. :lol:
Can't beat turkey deep fried in wool wax. Try that next time you use your turkey fryer. A tad expensive but the aroma is worth it. :biggrin:
 
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