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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've read here & elsewhere that timing belts should be changed every 60-100K miles. So, when I bought a used 2002 Voyager with 111K, I thought I'd better check the belt.
It's a PITA to get to, but sure enough, the belt was just about to fail. The rubber in the grooves had worn out and it was running on the reinforcing cords.


The timing belt DIY puzzle sequence:
Jack the right front & set a jack stand.
Reset the jack to support the motor, with a wood block to protect the oil pan.
Pull off the serpentine belt (from underneath)
Pull the upper & lower air box plastic, & cover the TB inlet.
Pull the fuel line & tape over the open metal ends.
Unbolt the body side engine mount & finagle it out.
Remove the serpentine belt tensioner. (a long handle 15mm offset box end wrench works)
(One of the lower cover screws is under there)
Now you can remove the upper timing belt cover.
Loosen the PS pump (3 bolts, the bottom pivot, the jack screw slide, another on the back inboard side)
Pull off the PS belt.

The main pulley is a task by itself:
The bolt is set with locktite. An impact wrench is best, if not you end up using a dead blow mallet on your socket handle. The Haynes book warns against turning the engine backwards.
The back side of the pulley is very fragile, so on not pry on it. It’s a very tight press fit.
You must have a 3 jaw puller to remove the main pulley. I had to make a pin to fit in the bolt hole to pull it off. The bolt is not long enough to work the pulley all the way off.

Now you can remove the covers & the engine side of the engine mount.
Give it a good wash down (I use purple, a hose, & blow it dry)
Put the main pulley bolt back in with some shim washers so you can crank the shaft around to line up the timing marks.
The timing belt tensioner rotates with a 5mm hex key (allen wrench). Use a 1/8” pin or allen wrench to hold it back.


The only trick with reassembly is the main pulley.
You have to start in on with a dead blow mallet to get the first two turns of the main bolt threads to catch. Then you can wrench it on.

Feel free to add any details I left out.
It took me 8 hours to do the whole job including a 40 minute run to get a 3-jaw puller.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Another picture

In this picture you can see how the belt nubs no longer fit the pulley grooves.


As the belt rides more & more on the flats, the rubber wears through to the cords - then Pop!
 

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Thanks for the note. Timing belts are critical components that often go un-noticed, until they break. It's a maintenance cost that must be accounted for if the engine has them, especially if the owner has the procedure done by a mechanic.
 

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Sureshot and Jason good job. I know that most people don't like the 2.6 four banger because it don't use a belt but a chain and that is the weak link in this motor. But most of the early Chrysler Mini used a lot of the 2.6 in them. They run for 100s of thousand miles with little or no other problems like smoking or oil leaks. { except carb problems. } I know of your comitment to the forum and your continued willingness to help others who have had questions in the past. I have a 2.6 in mine and I want more peddle responce then what I have now. I don't want to change wiring or others mods like installing a turbo. So Im looking for answer from others who knows engines.
From what research I have done has me confused. Chrysler used different pistons at different years in these engines. Both from what I have seen they use dish pistons both of defferent sizes and shapes. So first question is What was the Compression Ratios for the years they used these engines from the factory. And 2 Did both pistons weigh the same?. And one more thing. Mazda used the Mitsubishi 2.6 in the 80s in their B2600 trucks giving the trucks the B2600 name. I have found a picture of a piston for a Mazda 2.6 Mitsubihi and it has a much smaller dish in size and depth then the pistons used in the Chrylser 2.6. I don't think flat top pistons were ever used or to have them made would be very expensive. So if anyone would know the weight of the pistons used by Chrysler and if the two pistons have the same C.R. would greatly be appreciated. Also info on the Mazda engine such as did it use the same connecting rod as the Chrysler engines. This is a project vehicle and Im in no rush but I do want to keep it moving a long. I will be decking the block and milling the head to clean them up plus boring. So again 1 What was the factory C.Rs 2 The weight of the pistons. Plus if anyone would now the weight of the Madza 2.6 piston. Any sugestions or part numbers would be appreciated.
 

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You have things VERY reversed. The 2.6 is one of THE most AWFUL engines ever designed and made by man. The 2.2/2.5 were the best little 4 banger they used.
 

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kevin 8586 said:
Sureshot and Jason good job. I know that most people don't like the 2.6 four banger because it don't use a belt but a chain and that is the weak link in this motor.
Aside from a bad design, I ALWAYS prefer an engine with a timing CHAIN vice a BELT. Chains should require no maintenance, given a good design. I don't know about the 2.6L 4-cylinder, but Nissan has a 2.4L 4-cylinder, with a timing chain, that can have problems over time. The tensioners are designed poorly, and can fail over time, as the chain stretches. The result is a slapping noise for a second or two when the engine is first started. If left for years that way, it can develop problems where it slaps away at the engine or timing cover and wears away metal.

But in general, like I said, I always prefer a timing chain. In most cases, they're effective, economic (in the long run; should virtually last forever), and quiet.
 

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While we're on time belts I had couple of 2.2's in the 80's which used belts. One day just for fun I jumped the cam timing ahead by one tooth. It made it run somewhat better so I tried two...that was waaay too much. I backed it up to one notch over stock....it also helped the mileage a bit.
 

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It might not be the THE most AWFUL

sellinghomes4u said:
You have things VERY reversed. The 2.6 is one of THE most AWFUL engines ever designed and made by man. The 2.2/2.5 were the best little 4 banger they used.
I think the Chevy Vega 4 banger tops the list as the most awful engine ever used in a vehilce. Aluminum block with no liner so the cast rings tore the cylinders bores up in no time. Olds took their 350 gas motor and turned it into a diesel by only uping the compression And they blew in no time. Every Ford 300 6 cylinder I worked on would have 6 broken pistons { landings for the compression rings would break loose} Chevys small blocks had problems with their cam lobes wearing down to nonthing on the front clyinders. On Ford's 200 6 cylinders The oil rings would stick to the piston and not push against the walls so they had to be replaced often Now about the Mitsubishi 2.6 First made as a diesel was used by many Car manufacters. Also used in Heavy duty forklifts. Heavy duty Power generators and the list goes on and on. This motor did have its draw backs. The carburetor and the Balance shafts chain. With all 4 cycle four cylinders engines you have two pistons up while the other two are down. And this causes a harmonic shake that isn't felt in engines under 2000 ccs. Most engines over this sizes has balance shafts. The Pontiac 4 cylinder used in the 80,s had the balance shafts made into their oil pumps. And if you go to the salvage yards you will see plenty of them there blown up. Their pumps alone cost about $300 if it didn't already throw the crank. So to sum it up I like my 2.6
 

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As I recall Chevy tried to blame their flat cams on the multi-weight oil of that period. Couldn't prove it by me because I was fighting Olds issues about that time.

Buick's odd firing V6 of the day was affectionately know as the *paint shaker*. It vibrated more at idle than a Briggs with a bent crank.
 

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kevin 8586 said:
Olds took their 350 gas motor and turned it into a diesel by only uping the compression And they blew in no time.
That's not entirely true, although they didn't have a great reliability record. It is true that the diesel 350 was based on a gasoline block, however the internals were very different. The crank journals were enlarged and the block was a much heavier block. The compression was incredibly high, even for a diesel, about 22.5:1. That was done to get the most power out of an already anemic engine without the use of a turbocharger. That was GM's very first attempt at a light-duty diesel and it didn't turn out very well in practice. The engine internals held up great. Some of the biggest problems with them was blown head gaskets, surely owing to the HUGE compression and probably an underdesigned head gasket for the job. GM learned a lot of lessons from that diesel and their later 6.5L diesel V8 (not the current Duramax) was a lot better.
 

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None of the engines you named come close to the mitsu 4 banger for being bad. I know as I owned or worked on all of them. The Vega's issues were NOT the aluminum cylinders. That design has been used VERY effectively by companies like Porxche, Benz, Ferrari etc. The issue was the way the cylinder deck was designed causing a blown hg anf the resulting loss of coolant into the oil is waht caused the disasters, Chev small blocks did have some cam issues, the Ford 300 6 one of the most rugged engines around, the olds diesel most issues were due to owners not knowing how to run a diesel. I could go on but I am out of time.
 

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sellinghomes4u said:
the olds diesel most issues were due to owners not knowing how to run a diesel.
It's been rumored that most of the head gasket problems could have been prevented by the owners changing the coolant when required. I don't know how true that is (or isn't).
 

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Jews agains Muslims, Republicans against Democrats, Not here. We are united with the love and care we give, and our enjoyment and pleasure that we optain from owning and driving our Chrysler Mini vans. We are a team!
 

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There is an ongoing search by the go fast boys for the Olds diesel block....being non-windowed and much stronger. There was a rumor that some of the HD 403 gassers used this block...

Bet that's some news you can use! :biggrin:
 

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Drag racers for some time in the past have tried to brake under the 8 second 1/4 mile with a four banger. After many tries and many engines it was finally done! 7.97 seconds at 168.30 mph. They did it with a Mitsubishi 2.6. The car was named the world's fastest 4 cyl. doorslammer. I think the drivers name was Sakura.
 

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kevin 8586 said:
Drag racers for some time in the past have tried to brake under the 8 second 1/4 mile with a four banger. After many tries and many engines it was finally done! 7.97 seconds at 168.30 mph. They did it with a Mitsubishi 2.6. The car was named the world's fastest 4 cyl. doorslammer. I think the drivers name was Sakura.
That's moving by anyones standards!
 

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So what? All it proves is it was able to go fast. anything can go fast. Can it go the distance. The long term history of the engine shows it cannot.
 

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There is an ongoing search by the go fast boys for the Olds diesel block....being non-windowed and much stronger. There was a rumor that some of the HD 403 gassers used this block...

Bet that's some news you can use! :biggrin:
It's true that the diesel had solid mains (no "windows"). The rumor has it that some 403 engines were non-windowed, but nobody has found one, not to my knowledge. The snipe hunt continues!
 
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