The torque requirement is easy. You tighten it carefully until you strip it out and then back off one half a turn.

 

There isn't one specified. Never measured the torque, but I figure 10 ft/lbs should be more than enough and be no where close to stripping anything.

 

Found out it was pre-torqued to 20 ft/lbs

There were 5 quarts from the drain, and I've put 5 quarts back in. Now to get it off the jack stands and see if the cold pre-start is the same as pre-drain, 101mm

John

 

You should be very close, maybe a tad higher because of a few drips, depending on how long you let it drain. I have been doing transmission fluid changes, measuring quantities and checking with the dipstick readings (3" usually) on a 2010 Hyundai Elantra over the years. Everything works out tickety boo. The quantity in the sump is the quantity in the sump, simple as that.

It's likely a 10 or 12 mm bolt so something like 15 to 20 ft. lbs. I'm thinking, using a crush washer.
It's just a seal, there's nil fluid pressure. Just needs to be tight

I assume you applied torque and found you had at least 20 ft.lb. Tighten it a smidgen more and you should be fine. It likely has a crush washer on it. 20 ft lb should be ample, the larger oil drain plug only calls for 20 ft. lb.

Torque in motion vs static torque:
A lug nut torqued up to 100 ft.lb. will check out at 105 ft.lb., maybe a little higher, 10 minutes later. I always recheck lug nuts using 5 extra ft. lb.

 

If you put all the fluid in at once (you shouldn't, start with 4 quarts) it will be much higher. The system has to re-prime.

Breaking torque is greater than setting torque. If you got that 20 ft/lbs number by measuring how much it took to take off, your actual setting number will be lower - maybe as low as 15.

 

Not knowing the number of threads cut into the pan, or the thread pitch, it can be anyone's guess. Ooops-- already installed infilled with oil.

I really like those soft drain plug washers, rather than copper or aluminum crush washers - those made of nylon, or have rubber centers, or fiber - those you can snug down tightly with less risk of stripping the thread.

 

Before I filled it up, I used the torque wrench and set it for 18 ft/lbs, and it was clicking. At 20 ft/lbs, it turned slightly and then clicked.

 

Perfect.

 

FWIW my engineering manual shows the maximum recommended torque for an m6 hex head 8.8 fastener is around 8 ft/lbs.

 

From Haynes Manual:
M10 ..... 28 to 40 ft.-lbs. / 38 to 54 Nm
M12 ..... 50 to 71 ft.-lbs. / 68 to 96 Nm

Another source (1 Nm is equal to 0.7376 ft-lbs. ):

Torque Specifications for Metric Bolts: Maximum Values & Tables

Recommended thightening torque metric bolts.

www.engineeringtoolbox.com

The torques shown above are for structural purposes. For "sealing" purposes, not so much torque is needed, especially when there's nil pressure to be sealed against. Crush washers (aluminum or copper) help with sealing and are commonly used with oil/ATF drain plugs.

 

Maximum torque is required to secure assemblies together (hold a wheel on a car)
A drain plug is holding back some liquid, and in this case, the liquid is not under pressure and there is a gasket in place - I literally could hold it with my thumb
Just tighten the damn thing up so it won't fall out on it's own ........ DON'T UNNECESSARILY OVER-TIGHTEN IT

 

2 grunts should do it.