[Cciman]

Cap is upside down so you don't have to change oil to change filter. There is a ridge line on the cap, just tighten til it bottoms (snugs against) onto the ridge line on the housing. It has a o ring so the torque is not that important, just don't kill it, it will break.

Trick is having a tool (socket or wrench) I think it's a 24mm, that can reach the top hex on the cap.

Pop the engine cover off and unlatch the top of air filter box for more clearance.

 

[Westphal]

I don't think I've worked on an engine where you couldn't change the oil filter by itself and not change the oil, or vice versa. I always change both together anyways, but they can be done at different times.

 

[Jeepman]

I guess draining the oil first allows the anti-drainback valve to open for the retained oil to go to the pan. Otherwise there can be a fair amount of spillage when removing the cover first. So they say.

Seems like the bypass valve is a bit delicate, again so they say, so snapping the filter in the cover and removing it from the cover has to be done with care. I suspect more careless than careful at the shops, especially when it's a rush job to get the next customer in the bay. That oil filter housing is a "piece of work" for sure and needs to be respected for its delicacy.

What I do is snap the oil filter into the base, instead of the cover. The cover goes on and comes off without the filter attached using that method and the FRAM XG11665 filter. That requires less space to do the filter replacement and no worries about the bypass valve being damaged.

Filters aren't all the same length. The body at 5" +/- 1/16", overall length 6-1/4" +/- 1/16", or something like that. Hence there can be some twisting when the top and bottom surfaces of the body are clamped to the housing by using the cover tightened to the specified torque of 18 ft. lbs.

The FRAM XG 11665 has a rotating center core inside the body, others may have the core integral with the body which means the core will twist as well. The core within the FRAM is slightly shorter than the body, presumedly to really avoid any twisting of the core.

Interesting stuff about the filters here:

The Pentastar Loves to Wring its Filters Out!

Every filter, from the Mopar, to the Fram Ultra, and now to the M1, likes to think it is Chubby Checker in this engine. They all do the twist. I pulled my first Mobil 1 filter after an 8,000 mile run, and it was twisted like the others, but on one side, it was a bit worse. Close examination...

www.jlwranglerforums.com

The Pentastar's oil/filter change ain't rocket science, or open heart surgery, but it has a delicacy about it that needs to be respected.

 

[Cal T&C]

Everybody has a story about those ten minute oil changes. I quit them about ten years ago when it took an hour to change oil and filter on my pickup truck. Plus they always try to upswell.

 

[Jwerking]

Update: the local repair shop begrudgingly used my Mopar Oil filter to perform a full oil change and the replaced the oil housing cap with the Mopar part. So far, the CEL light has not reappeared after 2 days - have my fingers crossed!

I requested a full refund from Take 5 thru their website - no response and not even a confirmation of receipt of the complaint. I think that I will dispute the charge on the credit card.

My hubby has always used Jiffy Lube for the most part to perform the oil changes - I just happened by Take 5 and used it after a long road trip just completed. Yes, the upsell is the need for a new air filter and of course the synthetic oil change.

After the recent issues, May just take it to the dealership express oil change for $10 more.

Thanks Jeepman and everyone for your help on this issue.