The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner
1 - 20 of 48 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2010 T&C with the notorious front brake problem: Harsh grinding, lots of dust, quickly warping rotors. My mechanic shop has changed them three times--even free on service warranty--without resolution.

Has anyone tried installing drilled and slotted rotors, which supposedly brake much cooler? Do they make any real difference?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
27,919 Posts
I have a 2010 T&C with the notorious front brake problem: Harsh grinding, lots of dust, quickly warping rotors. My mechanic shop has changed them three times--even free on service warranty--without resolution.

Has anyone tried installing drilled and slotted rotors, which supposedly brake much cooler? Do they make any real difference?
Sounds like light duty parts, maybe even white box. Warping? must be something else going on like rust buildup or bad pad deposit on the rotors (burnishing in)
Warped Rotors - Maybe Not - Burnish The Brakes
.

My opinion is that you should be looking for heavy duty rotors and pads. More mass is better for handling heat. Holes and slots reduce mass.

Rockauto.com list heavy duty rotors for your van:

They also list heavy duty pads which, of course, are semi-metallic 2010 CHRYSLER TOWN & COUNTRY 4.0L V6 Brake Pad | RockAuto

How to Choose Brake Rotors: Blank vs Drilled and Slotted vs Drilled
 
  • Like
Reactions: LEVY

·
Registered
2009 GCV SE
Joined
·
1,485 Posts
If you're going to invest in brakes just upgrade to the HD brakes offered on 2013+ year vans then you don't have to worry about the shaking when you brake. You do need 17" rims however, everything else bolts on and works!

For the entire upgrade (like it would be from factory) you need:
-all 4 HD brake calipers, including larger rotors and bigger pads
-all 4 HD splash/dust shields
-the HD brake booster/master cylinder

If you don't wish to do the entire upgrade like I did, you can upgrade just the front, a few have done this and they had really good results.
 

·
--UNKNOWN MEMBER--
Joined
·
15,090 Posts
As already noted by Jeeman, your dear mechanic is probably using cheap rotors. Use OE rotors and you should be fine.

Now, regarding your quickly warping rotors, watch this video made by the brake experts:
.
People, we need to stop spreading this myth for good.

Brake rotors don't wrap. Don't believe me, believe the brake experts:




Starting today, remove “warped rotor” from your vocabulary.


No such thing as warped rotors, talked about this many times.





Source:


Source:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,499 Posts
Doing the HD swap is gonna be the best bang for the buck by far. The next would be to get good quality rotors and pads, and make sure the calipers and pistons are in good functioning order.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
27,919 Posts
If you're going to invest in brakes just upgrade to the HD brakes offered on 2013+ year vans then you don't have to worry about the shaking when you brake. You do need 17" rims however, everything else bolts on and works!

For the entire upgrade (like it would be from factory) you need:
-all 4 HD brake calipers, including larger rotors and bigger pads
-all 4 HD splash/dust shields
-the HD brake booster/master cylinder

If you don't wish to do the entire upgrade like I did, you can upgrade just the front, a few have done this and they had really good results.
Sounds expensive and a lot of work to me. The result is more effective braking but still problem prone components (rotors that flake, pins that corrode/stick - been there, had that happen early on in my Ownership of the 2016 DGC with OE parts)

Better quality parts are made for a reason, that's the less labor intensive/less expensive solution. There's lots of taxis and couriers around using the standard brake system. What are they recommending/using for parts? Driver's have navigated mountains with the standard brake system. How loaded down is the van?

Here's how rockauto.com describes it "heavy duty" brake rotors and pads;
Rotors: Heavy Duty (Long Life, Truck & Tow)
Pads: Heavy Duty (Long Life, Truck & Tow)

Since there are two brake systems available, make sure whatever parts ordered will fit. Dimensions are available.

Brake parts are available in three general quality ranges typically:
low/regular quality: the less heavy parts available - "white box" for example
mid range:
heavy duty:
better metal/material composition, weigh more
 
  • Like
Reactions: RDKirk

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Maybe the rotors don't warp but will deform if the lugs are not torqued properly and to spec. Cheap rotors are less tolerant of improper lug tightening. You will notice in most of the articles/videos that say rotors don't warp will emphasize torquing properly and to spec is essential. Warp or deform, the rotor is thrashed.

I use the rockauto 'daily driver' rotors and ceramic pads (less dust). I recheck the lugs after any service that may have involved removing a tire even from a dealer service department. I have not had any pulsating brake issues since following up with this simple task. I do have 2 local shops that have consistently been spot on when tightening the lugs and will only spot check a few lugs and not the whole set.

Slotted and drilled rotors do not reduce heat but allow the hot gases caused by repearted heavy braking to escape. These gases reduce braking effectiveness when in competition and very rarely come into play when hitting the brakes a single time.
 

·
--UNKNOWN MEMBER--
Joined
·
15,090 Posts
Maybe the rotors don't warp but will deform if the lugs are not torqued properly and to spec. Cheap rotors are less tolerant of improper lug tightening. You will notice in most of the articles/videos that say rotors don't warp will emphasize torquing properly and to spec is essential. Warp or deform, the rotor is thrashed.

I use the rockauto 'daily driver' rotors and ceramic pads (less dust). I recheck the lugs after any service that may have involved removing a tire even from a dealer service department. I have not had any pulsating brake issues since following up with this simple task. I do have 2 local shops that have consistently been spot on when tightening the lugs and will only spot check a few lugs and not the whole set.

Slotted and drilled rotors do not reduce heat but allow the hot gases caused by repearted heavy braking to escape. These gases reduce braking effectiveness when in competition and very rarely come into play when hitting the brakes a single time.
Rotors don't warp, deform yes, but don't warp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,499 Posts
What is the difference between warped and deformed, and why worry about what word is used?
 

·
--UNKNOWN MEMBER--
Joined
·
15,090 Posts
What is the difference between warped and deformed, and why worry about what word is used?
People keep saying their rotors warped. A warped piece of metal is deformed for sure.

But warped only have one meaning when deformed have multiple meanings.

Knowledgeable people know rotors deform, but don't warp. Rotors deform due to uneven wear (for whatever reason) or due to ceramic brake shoe deposits on the rotor, but not because of heat of improper torquing itself.

Improper torquing causes the rotor to oscillate, then brake shoes causes the uneven wear due to the uneven contact with the rotor.

It is foolish to keep telling your rotors warped.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,499 Posts
I guess I'll just leave these here.

Rectangle Font Screenshot Software Technology



Rectangle Font Screenshot Software Electronic device
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
27,919 Posts
Only DIYers say that brake rotors "warp". It's a pad answer an out, and covers a multitude of sins. True Mechanics would never say that, they would have another explanation like "the impact wrench I used to tighten up your lug nuts did a job on your rotor". :)

Even way down under in Australia, brake rotors don't warp and they have solved the mystery.
Solved: The Mystery of Warped Brake Rotors

Kleenex describes facial tissues so I guess "warped" can cover other bases as well. He walks with a warp. The bicycle has a warped rim. She has a warped mind. Yeah it works. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,499 Posts
Sure. "synonyms" removed. Oddly enough, they are still there.

Product Azure Rectangle Font Line


Product Azure Rectangle Font Screenshot
 
  • Like
Reactions: Long_Voyager94

·
--UNKNOWN MEMBER--
Joined
·
15,090 Posts
Only DIYers say that brake rotors "warp". It's a pad answer an out, and covers a multitude of sins. True Mechanics would never say that, they would have another explanation like "the impact wrench I used to tighten up your lug nuts did a job on your rotor". :)

Even way down under in Australia, brake rotors don't warp and they have solved the mystery.
Solved: The Mystery of Warped Brake Rotors

Kleenex describes facial tissues so I guess "warped" can cover other bases as well. He walks with a warp. The bicycle has a warped rim. She has a warped mind. Yeah it works. :)
I know of some ASE certified mechanics who swear rotors warp, and they think they can prove it! 😳

Rectangle Font Gas Building material Signage
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
467 Posts
I've met the "Warped Rotors" people. I've had pulsating brakes too ... but I don't trust many shops. Last episode was on my 2017 DGC this year. Reason .... car sat idle too long during covid so rust developed at the edge of the pads and under the pads along the slots etc. anywhere moisture would collect. So it kept hitting rust ridges. Bump bump bump reflected through the brake lines to the pedal. Worse, one of the slide pins had seized. Not quite sure why ... the boot was intact.

I've replaced half a dozen sets of rotors over the years and each time it was rust on the rotors ... although once was an extreme case. I bought a cheap rotor from a well known Canadian parts and hardware outfit. I paid for it for sure a year later. These were made in China ... the steel literally delaminated in places around the rotor ... you look at it and it looked like flakes had been chipped out of the rotors. They were absolute garbage. Bought some from a place that does various types drilled grooved and plain, made in Canada in Montreal. 2 years later there was no evidence of wear and only a tiny rust ridge on the outside perimeter of the disk.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
27,919 Posts
Worse, one of the slide pins had seized. Not quite sure why ... the boot was intact.

I've replaced half a dozen sets of rotors over the years and each time it was rust on the rotors ... although once was an extreme case. I bought a cheap rotor from a well known Canadian parts and hardware outfit. I paid for it for sure a year later. These were made in China ... the steel literally delaminated in places around the rotor ... you look at it and it looked like flakes had been chipped out of the rotors. They were absolute garbage.
The "heavy duty" brakes aren't so heavy duty in reality. They are more effective for stopping but the OE parts are ho hum. I had a pin seize on me (lower right front) and that rotor delaminated the same as you described. Three pads had lots of material left on them to go to waste.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
467 Posts
I was watching a post on you tube by the guy at "South Main Auto". He's a very practical small town mechanic in a small shop. He was utterly disgusted finding a Dorman part in a DGC that had failed. He got a replacement Mopar part and found it was made in China and was blown away. The original had obviously failed. The Dorman made in China part failed and now he was putting in a genuine Mopar made in China part. He reckons they probably came from the same factory!
 
1 - 20 of 48 Posts
Top