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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
No, save your money and upgrade to HD brakes.
Do you mean replacing the cylinder and rotor with the later larger-sized version, or do you mean heavier weight rotors? I've read the post regarding replacing the smaller brake parts with the larger brake parts--including going to 17-inch wheels. Whew, even though I've swapped a good number of rotors and calipers in my younger days.

Rotors don't warp! Your mechanic lied to you.
Well, my mechanic replaced them free of charge, so maybe he was mistaken, but he wasn't lying.

Does the fact that they also grind very loudly and dust very heavily (in addition to pulsating) lead to a specific problem?
 

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My experience (I am not a mechanic): I have had several cars with warped / deformed rotors over the years. It seems to be worse on smaller cars and I always suspected the rotors were just too thin and built up heat. I have suspected my driving style made it worse - longer, gentler braking (building up heat), not typical hard braking at a red light. Used the same shop for many years. Our 2009 HHR has been really good on brakes and rotors, but otherwise, the smaller cars have always been worse, usually pulsating and needing rotors turned or replaced with every brake job. I try to do the best brake job and use the premium parts.
 

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Do you mean replacing the cylinder and rotor with the later larger-sized version, or do you mean heavier weight rotors? I've read the post regarding replacing the smaller brake parts with the larger brake parts--including going to 17-inch wheels. Whew, even though I've swapped a good number of rotors and calipers in my younger days.
He means upgrading to the larger brakes, we call them heavy duty.

You don't have to swap all the components to HD, the front rotors are the ones that have issues. If you'd like, you can swap just the front calipers to the dual piston ones, upgrade the front rotor size to 330mm (this is the size the HD brakes use in the front), and obviously the bigger pads. You can also choose to upgrade the dust/splash shields to the bigger ones too, if not you need to bend them so they don't strike the larger rotors.

I did the full upgrade on my 2009, I started with the front brakes then went for a drive with the original rear and new heavy duty front. The shaking went away completely, so it was the front that had all the problems. But I upgraded the rear as well since the larger rotor has better cooling and the rear rotors and pads were due to be replaced anyway so why not?
 

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What Michalb said. That's what I did. Upgraded the fronts to HD and then when the (smaller) rears wore out, upgraded the rears to HD. The biggest noticeable change was upgrading the fronts. But I am glad i had the brakes upgraded as it is indeed quite noticeable with better stopping and the brakes have lasted quite awhile. Wish I had done it first thing after buying the van, in retrospect.

When I had the smaller brakes, I had tried several "premium" solid rotors as well as OE and they never lasted more than 15-20k miles on the fronts. Went through at least 4 sets of front brakes like that. One set lasted two oil changes before needing another replacement. I then tried the dimpled & slotted (not drilled & slotted) from brakeperformance-dot-com, and those lasted quite a bit longer and in fact "we" ruined the rotors when the front pads wore out and "we" kept driving on it and scored the rotors. But they hadn't warped/deformed when I finally replaced them, and I want to say that was maybe 40k miles. The dimpled & slotted had a weird wooshing sound that I didn't like though, and a very rough break-in period that was so bad that I first thought the brakes were installed wrong before they broke in.

So I replaced the dimpled & slotted with PowerStop towing & truck performance brake kit that had the Z36 pads and drilled & slotted rotors. Much quieter than the dimpled & slotted, better break-in, and similar life. That would be my go-to if I stayed with the smaller brakes.

But still, nothing compared to upgrading from the SD to the HD brakes, especially the fronts. And when i upgraded to HD, I used the OE type solid rotors from Raybestos premium line. Used to be called Professional, I think, but I believe they call them Element 3 now. Raybestos (and others I am sure) also offers "Truck" rotors that are conventional solid rotors for these Gen5 vans that might also be a good option.
 

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Hmm, uneven rotors are considered to be warped in the repair industry and by manufacturers.
No, uneven rotors are not considered warped by the experts, just by the inexperienced guys.

Warped means twisted, that never happens on a rotor.

Show me a link where a manufacturer acknowledges a warped rotor.
 

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No, uneven rotors are not considered warped by the experts, just by the inexperienced guys.

Warped means twisted, that never happens on a rotor.

Show me a link where a manufacturer acknowledges a warped rotor.
I didn't say a word about twisted. I said industry lingo applied that word to uneven rotors. Powerstop has changed their "warped" descriptor to "DTV." Otherwise, your request, sure, why not:



 

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I didn't say a word about twisted. I said industry lingo applied that word to uneven rotors. Powerstop has changed their "warped" descriptor to "DTV." Otherwise, your request, sure, why not:



I asked a link to a manufacturer, not to a site owned by a not so smart mechanic.

Warped actually means a twisted piece of metal. That guy is not using the word warped correctly.

Powerstop used to guarantee their rotors against warping, but asked you to first send your "warped" rotor for inspection.

Guess what? Your claim would be deny as rotors "don't warp".

Yes, they now call it Disc Tickness Variation (after they saw the video I posted 🤣) because they just found out that Rotors Dont Warp!, and is not part of their warranty. 😳

Every site that talks about brakes, will be slowly removing the words twisted rotor from their vocabulary.
 

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"Warped rotors" is a term commonly used to describe a pulsating brakes, but it is a very inaccurate term.

I've had my share over the years. It usually happens with cars that are parked outside and driven infrequently, or at very high mileage since the last brake job (120-150k km).

Although the outside of the rotor looks like new, the inboard side is the complete opposite. Very rough surface with extensive pitting. While it might be able to be resurfaced on a brake lathe, shops don't have brake lathes anymore. The only solution is to replace the rotor.

Over-torquing has been mentioned as a cause, but isn't. Think about it for a second. The lugs clamp a flat center section of rotor to a flat hub. How on earth is overtightening going to distort anything? The studs will stretch or snap long, long before the rotor could be distorted.

Also mentioned is the rust around the outer lip of the rotor. This causes an irritating scraping sound, but doesn't cause a pulsating brake petal. But if you do have a rust lip, chances are the backside of the rotor will be in bad shape too (which is what is causing the pulsating).
 

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Yes, a lot of brake problems can be attributed to rusting/rust scale. The back side is typically worse maybe because it doesn't dry out as well as the front side? pressure is applied differently? Does the two piston caliper help the backside stay more rust free?

Another problem is the rotor wear surface delaminating in spots. That has happened on white box rotors in the past and the OE front rotor on my 2016 DGC. I don't know what causes that other than poor, inconsistent quality materials..

I have descaled rotors many times and ground/filed the faces smooth, for reuse although that seems to work better on drums. In some cases that has gotten rid of pulsations as well, especially where the scale was starting to flake off. That procedure will give OK braking for a while longer until the cycle repeats itself. It's a stop gap but not a good solution. Don't use expensive pads with that procedure.
 
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I asked a link to a manufacturer, not to a site owned by a not so smart mechanic.

Warped actually means a twisted piece of metal. That guy is not using the word warped correctly.

Powerstop used to guarantee their rotors against warping, but asked you to first send your "warped" rotor for inspection.

Guess what? Your claim would be deny as rotors "don't warp".

Yes, they now call it Disc Tickness Variation (after they saw the video I posted 🤣) because they just found out that Rotors Dont Warp!, and is not part of their warranty. 😳

Every site that talks about brakes, will be slowly removing the words twisted rotor from their vocabulary.
Actually, I gave you both since I referenced repair industry and manufacturers. But then I guess you read into whatever suits you.

How much compensation is there being a consultant to the manufacturing industry? :LOL:
 

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Actually, I gave you both since I referenced repair industry and manufacturers. But then I guess you read into whatever suits you.

How much compensation is there being a consultant to the manufacturing industry? :LOL:
I don't see a manufacturer's link on your post.

When I see people still saying their rotors warped, then I know is not worth reading the rest of their lies. Well, sometimes is funny.
 

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Did you also know the sun doesn't actually rise or set?

But sunrise is easier to say than night-day transit due to the earth's rotation at a time relative to one's location on the surface.
 

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Did you also know the sun doesn't actually rise or set?

But sunrise is easier to say than night-day transit due to the earth's rotation at a time relative to one's location on the surface.
The words sunrise and sunset were created to make it easier for people to understand, is not sun rise or sun set, comprende?

If you keep digging, you'll find more examples like:

Do you know cold as temperature doesn't really exist?

If cold doesn't really exists, then why people keeps saying things like: it is cold outside.
 

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Cold is relative.
 

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I have a 2013 t&c with HD Brakes. I just changed my brakes and rotors to drilled and slotted had to change out the back calipers cuz they were seized up. Stop on a dime now!
 
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