Early symptoms of failure? 62TE

763 Views 45 Replies 9 Participants Last post by Jeepman, 2 d ago

2014 White Lightning

Discussion Starter · 6 d ago

Transmission shudders in reverse, seems to slip through 3rd into 4th gear unless I go heavy on accelerator into shift, then it holds.
Banged hard into drive last week, then drove normally.
No codes at dealer (or on self scan/dash), total filter & fluid change.
Endurance supreme coverage on any mechanical failures etc. I know it excludes some tranny parts.
Driven 3k since purchase. Today went nowhere after shifting into drive after long idling in park. Turned off van, restarted, all was fine.
Any input is helpful. Temp runs around 185 coolant & oil, I think. Will check again.

1 - 20 of 46 Posts

Jeepman

· #2 · 6 d ago

Lots of discussion on the Forum re the 62TE transmission, such as this Thread:

www.chryslerminivan.net

The "Unofficial" Transmission Issues Thread

Hey guys, I figured since there are so many scattered posts regarding our infamous 62TE 6-speed transmission, I thought it might be beneficial to have one dedicated "issues" thread. If the Mods think this is bad idea feel free to blackhole it. Hopefully this will help newcomers to the site...

www.chryslerminivan.net

www.chryslerminivan.net

My 2016's coolant tends to run around 85C/185F and the oil temperature several degrees lower. I have never seen the oil temperature exceed the coolant temperature.

I don't think the transmission likes idling in drive at construction site stops and such, best to idle in park or better still to shut the engine down. They say any stop over 10 seconds is wasting fuel anyway.

Sienile

· #3 · 5 d ago

There's a good chance your transmission fluid is low. You might also have bad mounts, but that alone wouldn't explain everything.

Long_Voyager94

· #4 · 5 d ago

1. Fluid level correct?
2. Was the correct fluid used?

How many miles?
What's the previous service history?
Was it having this issue before you had the fluid/filter changed?

Obvious guess, lack of maintenance has led to clogged passages in the solenoid pack/valve body.

AeroZ

· #5 · 5 d ago

Don’t remember if it was from 3rd to 4th or 4th to 5th but without hard acceleration the transmission skips a gear. At least mine does it and I’ve seen a thread about it here.
There’s a TSB regarding a jerk/thump/bang from R to D. A PCM firmware update supposedly fixes this. I haven’t done it myself so can’t confirm.

Reactions: 1

ATOMANT

· #6 · 5 d ago

I would find a tranny shop willing to help you that knows how to deal with that company. I would also find out whats not covered in the transmission under the warranty. Its probably wear. If a clutch pack is worn out and no other explanation why the clutch failed its up to you to pay. So the tranny shop needs to be careful what is said. I low km used transmission might be the best option if you can find one.
When i look at used vans gheres sure a lot of them with ridiculously high mileage. Like owners are driving 30k kms a year or more.

AeroZ

· #7 · 5 d ago

Shifting - (269) The 62TE Transmission is a 7 speed? | The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums
Harsh R to D - 18-086-16 Chrysler Technical Service Bulletin (tsbsearch.com)

2014 White Lightning

Discussion Starter · #8 · 5 d ago

Phenomenal feedback here thank you so much.
Please forgive original lack of info. I have to pull service records. Most printed out in a folder ...somewhere here...
Bought in January @ 39k
2014 TnC S
Van's original owner traded back in to original dealer, from whence I scooped asap after 2 months searching a 200mi radius fr Pittsburgh.
Around 40k more noticeable:
•Shudder in R
•slip-through? 3rd upshifting,
•stop-to-start- late downshifting= bang at acceleration
All dealer service
At my complaint they said they couldn't repeat symptoms.
No codes at scan at home or there.
Full tranny fluid and filter change done. (Flushed??)
Software package checked, up to date.
No reset of sorts recommend, even though I requested one.
43k
Symptoms intermittently more noticeable. I wouldn't say severe though.
New OEM air cleaner at purchase.)

Preparing oil change, tire rotation before 6hr road trip.
Same driving mileage dropped 15-13 in last two weeks.
Could I..?

• 1st aim cheap, Gumout fuel tank treatment
• Try battery disconnect 4a time trick
• Pay dealer to reset somehow
• shut up and enjoy the thing till the transmission fails.

And so on ... Hope that info helps. Check back shortly then~

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Long_Voyager94

· #9 · 5 d ago

Have you checked the fluid level yourself to ensure it's correct?
As little as 1/2qt low will cause all the symptoms you're describing.

When the "flush" was done, did they use the correct fluid?
Don't assume dealer = done right, dealers were the ones upselling non certified fluid for these vans back in the 90s and destroying numerous transmissions from improper fluid. Even today many use bulk fluid instead of the proper ATF+4.

Reactions: 3

2014 White Lightning

Discussion Starter · #10 · 5 d ago

Hah. Ya I did read of the incorrect fluid stint.
I should check myself, I think you're right. Will lookup proper level and rig my own dipstick as necessary. I think I read about that.
Otherwise, the drive time shifting ihas been far better as I began driving w less care for the fuel mileage, seeing as it had been lower already. $3 at the pump per tank for a happy system is nothing.
This super low rpm operation seems unusual for a heavier vehicle.

Gumout fuel system treatment - Yes/No?

Will post fluid levels soon as I can here...

Sienile

· #11 · 5 d ago

Speaking of low RPMs... if you have the Eco button on, turn it off. You'll probably see your mileage go up and the transmission will be less labored.

Fuel cleaner is probably a waste of money.

Reactions: 3

2014 White Lightning

Discussion Starter · #12 · 5 d ago

At 9 years old with original plugs, even though iridium, I figured fuel sys cleaner/conditioner might help w some deposits at least somewhat. You don't think??

Eco- tried it out 1st week of purchase. Melted the button off w my blow torch so the wife can never engage it 🤣🤣
Clutch pack wear? That sounds painful as a non warrantied part.
Will check out TSB and other helpful links posted above, maybe narrow down the diagnosis some.

Have a goodnight world. And thanks again for the input.

Jeepman

· #13 · 5 d ago

How many engine hours on your spark plugs? The OE Champion Iridiums are at least good for seven years per the Champion warranty these days. One of the longer warranties, actually, when you compare warranties. Iridium plugs are considered good for 3,000 to 4,000 engine hours. The OE Champion Iridiums in my 2016 are very near 3,000 engine hours and should be there before 185,000 kms/115,000 miles.

Comparing engine hours to mileage will give you some idea of the type of driving the engine was exposed to. I'm about 50% highway time wise, with the rest being secondary roads and a small amount of city driving or idling time. I'm averaging about 62 kms/39 miles per engine hour.

ECON mode has its place such as slow country road driving, say 65 km/40 miles per hour, where it keeps the rpms down some. City driving as well. It will save some fuel, especially when combined with cruise control, based on watching/comparing the EVIC instantaneous readings. Some complain about rough shifting, and such, in ECON mode. I don't experience any difference with my transmission, same smoothness. Some use it all the time, I choose my times.

If you like, use a safe fuel additive. I don't and the engine works great using good quality regular grade gasoline with its own additives. Additional additives are generally frowned on by Chrysler. Like they say, if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it.

My oil change routine is 10,000 kms/6.000 miles for oil and 20,000/12,000 for the filter. The less wrenching on the oil filter housing, the better.

Typically using 5W-30 synthetic (Super Tech Full Synthetic) or synthetic blend (Valvoline Daily Protection) oil these days, depending on what's on sale.

Rectangle Font Cylinder Packaging and labeling Box

Extended life - 32,000 kms/20,000 miles

Based on a test, using synthetic oil, my oil change monitor light came on at 15,500 kms/9,600 miles.

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Jeepman

· #14 · 4 d ago

AeroZ said:
Don’t remember if it was from 3rd to 4th or 4th to 5th but without hard acceleration the transmission skips a gear. At least mine does it and I’ve seen a thread about it here.
There’s a TSB regarding a jerk/thump/bang from R to D. A PCM firmware update supposedly fixes this. I haven’t done it myself so can’t confirm.

There's mention of a seventh gear here, which could explain a down shift issue from 6th to 4th, I guess, but not an upshift experience.

www.chryslerminivan.net

The 62TE Transmission is a 7 speed?

Y’all read that right and I am not counting reverse. Since I bought my van about three months ago I thought the transmission was slipping in fourth gear. When counting the shifts while accelerating when it shifted into fourth it seemed to run at rpm for a few seconds then dropped rpm, I thought...

www.chryslerminivan.net

www.chryslerminivan.net

2014 White Lightning

Discussion Starter · #15 · 4 d ago

4th gear prime is a consideration for next trip. Interestingand helpful.
Engine hours = 3000k / 42000mi = .071 (1/14)
Ok, am I off here, or does it show major idling & lower speeds.
Vehicle age, engine hours... Reasonable to consider plug change?
Most driving in hilly suburbs and out toward countryside for us here, so the engine & transmission get put through their paces...
Tranny fluid check info to be posted later...

Jeepman

· #16 · 4 d ago

2014 White Lightning said:
4th gear prime is a consideration for next trip. Interestingand helpful.
Engine hours = 3000k / 42000mi = .071 (1/14)
Ok, am I off here, or does it show major idling & lower speeds.
Vehicle age, engine hours... Reasonable to consider plug change?
Most driving in hilly suburbs and out toward countryside for us here, so the engine & transmission get put through their paces...
Tranny fluid check info to be posted later...

Yes, 42,000 miles in 3,000 engine hours (14 miles/22 kms per engine hour) sounds like a lot of idling and/or City driving.
Engine hours is a great indicator, IMO, for a plug change. One or two plugs could be removed and checked for wear, as an indicator. I would put a new set of Champion 9407s in there anyway, good for another 3,000 engine hours.

2014 White Lightning

Discussion Starter · #17 · 4 d ago

That's exactly what my mechanic buddy said... And, that, I don't know what may or may not be in there plug-wise, til I look.
I'll check out champion.
Wondering if I should be ready w new gasket if I have to remove intake runners, or something?
Can look for thread here I'm sure.
Got Mopar oil filter and Valvoline 5w20
Went and put some seafoam & tank fill.
Routine I suppose - new to me vehicle, pre vacation trip work, tire rotation etc.

Saw my oil hovering around 208f, coolant 210-214.

Hoping that's not too high.

Am I getting off topic? Thanks gentlemen

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Long_Voyager94

· #18 · 4 d ago

Jeepman swears by Champion, but every experience we've had with them, they're junk.
The garbage Champion plugs and Denso factory coils are the cause of the "mysterious" idle miss everyone claims is normal for this engine.
Throw them in the trash, install some MSD/Accel coils and quality NGK plugs and that lowly miss everyone thinks is normal magically goes away.

Yes you should replace the intake gasket when changing the plugs/coils, reusing the old gasket is just asking for vacuum leaks.

Mopar filter and Valvoline Advanced 5w20 is a great combo, it's lead us over 1.6 million trouble free miles on 3 of these vans.

Your temps are a little high, usually 195-205 is normal as the stat opens at 203, maybe suspect a sticking stat. Use only Mopar unless you want to do the job again.

2019GTlife

· #19 · 4 d ago

Something I have noticed with the 3.6 engine is that since it has very little in the way of mass it will heat up and cool down quick. So the temp of the coolant and oil is very dependent on the activity the engine is engaged in at that moment. For example, with your quoted temps and driving in stop n go traffic at 70*+ I would say normal. However driving in the country at 55 mph at 70*+ I would say that those temps are high. My engine oil temp usually runs about 8* less than the coolant temperature unless I am in traffic too long, then the oil temp starts to climb to and above the coolant and is also much slower to cool down than the coolant.

Jeepman

· #20 · 4 d ago

Long_Voyager94 said:
Jeepman swears by Champion, but every experience we've had with them, they're junk.
The garbage Champion plugs and Denso factory coils are the cause of the "mysterious" idle miss everyone claims is normal for this engine.
Throw them in the trash, install some MSD/Accel coils and quality NGK plugs and that lowly miss everyone thinks is normal magically goes away.

Are they the NGKs with the 60 day warranty?

Nothing wrong with NGK spark plugs except the Company doesn't stand behind them warranty wise. Something's fishy there. They aren't telling us. Denso is one better = no warranty. Even SKP and Bosh have a 12 month warranty. Mopar has 24 months. Whoopee. Split peas for split pea soup last longer than that - used some this week with a best before date of July, 2019. The soup is good though.

The OE spark plugs in the 4th Generation and the 5th Generation were Champions - tried and proven beyond a doubt.

Mysterious miss for sure, I don't have it. This guy did, for what it's worth.

www.wranglerforum.com

JK pentastar misfires after spark plug change

Did the dreaded spark plug change on The pentastar Today replace the Champion spark plugs with NGK reassembled the entire thing verifying specs torque in cetera fired it up any mediately raced to 3000 RPM and runs rough any suggestions I did not do coil packs thanks for any help

www.wranglerforum.com

www.wranglerforum.com

I actually changed gaskets upper and lower just because I had nothing better to do. I cleaned off reinstall the old plugs and itfired right up no issues whatsoever so the NGK plugs that I put in we're all bad and I'm going to stick to Champions!

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